Delco CD Changer Install 
by Steve Sochacki 96 DGGM - MISSL 
     If you have a 1995-1996 radio with the cassette player only (P/N 12370249 UL0 
AM/FM Cassette w/SCV and CD Changer Controls), it is relatively painless to add a 
CD-changer, and allow the stock head unit to control it.  The CD player radio will 
not control the CD changer.  Also, '94 radios were different and cannot control a 
CD changer. 


     If you are looking to buy a changer, contact World Parts or call Speedometer 
Services (ask for Hamp) in Georgia (1-800-241-2385) to get the stock factory 
changer for dealer cost (currently about $440).  You wil need: P/N 12343958 ($400.00),
12-Disc CD Changer for UL0 Radio and P/N 12344015 ($40.00), Wiring Harness for 12-Disc 
changer / UL0).  Dealer retail is over $800 and the best price I could get locally was 
$579 just for the changer.  The connectors (harness) wire right into the stock radio 
with very little pain. 


     The first step is to decide where to place the unit in the trunk.  It seems the 
two most common places are on the floor of the trunk off to one side or hang it from 
the rear deck lid.  If you decide to hang it from the rear deck lid your obvious choice 
is the passenger side.  This is because the trunk light is in the way if you want to 
hang it from the driver's side.  I chose the passenger side and since I added a second 
trunk light on the passenger side, I had to fabricate two brackets to mount it deeper 
into the trunk behind the extra trunk light. 
     
     After you have decided where to mount it, you need to go inside the car.  Remove 
the bottom part of the back seat.  Get inside the car facing the rear of the car.  Push 
in the bottom of the rear seat and lift at the same time to release it from the brackets.  
This has to be done on both sides.  Seems back seats have been coming out this way for 
years.  Then slide your seat belt buckets through the slots in the seat to remove it from 
the car.  The back part of the rear seat is held in by two torx bolts where the seat belts 
attach to the floor pan; one on each side.  Once the bolts are removed the other part of 
the back seat comes out.  You can then choose which side of the car you want to run the 
cable to the radio.  Since I mounted my player on the passenger side, I chose to route it 
along that side.  Fish the cable from the trunk to the back seat area.  Looks like there 
are a couple of holes/gaps to do this in.  I chose the lowest one closest to the outside 
of the car. A heavy rubber sleeve shields the cable so it shouldn't chafe the wires for a 
while. Remove the plastic sill plate from the right rear doorframe.  

     Remove the plastic trim piece that runs up from the floor along side the back seat.  
Carefully lift the carpet and you will see a "channel" for running wires from the rear to 
the front of the car.  Remove the plastic sill plate from the right passenger side doorframe.  
You'll see a continuation of this channel.  Remove the side panel type piece of trim which 
runs from the floor to the bottom of the glove box.  I left the piece of trim on that separates 
the front and back doors and holds the seat belt.  The channel that runs from the back door 
to the front door turns into a "tunnel" at this point. It's kind of a pain, but with a little 
patience, fish the cable through.  

     Now it's time to work on the dash and there is no better directions than Ed Runnion's 
on the Cheek tech page, cleverly disguised as "Installing the Wagon Switch Module".  I 
followed them and didn't have any problems whatsoever. I've copied them here for easier reading. 

1. First you must remove the dash.  Start by opening the glovebox, ashtray, and driver's door, 
   and remove the fuse panel cover. 

2. Remove the four screws holding in the ashtray.  Pull it out, and unplug the light. 

3. Remove the black bezel around the speedo cluster.  It is two screws pointed up, then pull 
   it out to disengage it from the "prongs" holding it to the grey plastic below. 

4. Remove the following screws:
     1. One on the left side beneath the bezel removed in step 3. 
     2. Similar screw in the "fuse panel" that is screwed into the side of the air vent            
     3. Total of 4 screws along the bottom of the dash pointed straight up.            
     4. One screw pointed straight up that is inside the "ashtray area" basically below the 
        ride side of the radio. 
     
5. Now just YANK on the panel, it should come loose from the prongs holding it in and practically 
   fall in your lap! Installation is the reverse of removal.  

     The radio is held in by the two screws on the front; one on each side.  Take these out and 
you can then slide the radio out.  I fished the factory cable back behind the glovebox and over 
to the radio.  You will see a place for the factory cable to into the back of the radio.  It is 
on the bottom right when looking at the back of the radio.  Plug it in and test it out before 
putting anything back together.  After I mounted my radio back in, I pulled all the slack out 
of the cable, zip tied it in the trunk and tucked it behind the spare.  Now re-install the dash 
and ashtray.            

     All in all it took me 4-6 hours because I had to fashion and paint some brackets to mount 
mine away from the second trunk light. I'd guess it's a 2-4 hour job otherwise.