Install New Spindle

Torque the upper ball joint nut to 61 ft.lbs and insert a new cotter pin. Torque the lower ball joint nut to 83 ft.lbs. and insert a new cotter pin. Slowly lower jack and replace grease fittiing in lower ball joint.

Reinstall Shocks

Torque lower shock bolts to 20 ft.lbs., upper nut to 97 in.lbs.

Install New Hub

Install new seal, pack wheel bearings, install bearings, torque wheel bearing nut to 12 ft.lbs. while turming hub, back off to "just loose", hand tighten, and loosen to next slot to fit cotter pin. Install the hub dust shield.

Reinstall ABS Sensor, Tie Rods and Sway Bar

Torque tie rod nuts to 35 ft.lbs. and insert new cotter pins.

Install Caliper Bracket

Install the caliper bracket using the supplied 12mm bolts and lock washers, and torque to 60 ft.lbs.

Mount Rotor

Mount the rotor using a couple of lug nuts.

Mount Caliper and Check Centering

Mount the caliper using the supplied 7/16 hardware and check the centering of the rotor in the caliper. If required the spacing can be altered by using the shims available from TCE. Mine was fine without the shims. Make sure the rotor is CLEAN—the best way is to wash it with lots of soap and water and blow it dry. Brake cleaner works too, but good old H2O is the best.You can install brake shields at this point if you wish. You will need the modified 9C1/JA9 brake version of the shield, and it will require minor re-shimming of the caliper bracket to properly align the caliper over the rotor. They are available from Bill Harper.

Install Brake Pads

They slide in from the back of the caliper. Very cool.

Secure with the bridge bolts.

Install Brake Lines

Remove the old caliper and flex line. Fit the -3 adapter into the body tab, fit the wave clip, tighten the hard line. Fit the straight end into the adapter and the 90 degree end into the caliper. This step is messy, so have rags available.

Bleed the Brakes

Place a drain pan under the caliper and open the outer bleed screw to allow the fluid to flow freely., after a couple of minutes of steady flow, close and do the same to the inner bleeder. Do not allow the master cylinder reservoir to run dry! After closing all bleeders, pump the pedal a couple of times to seat the pads. Bleed the outer bleed nipple 4 or more times by having someone lightly depresss the pedal. Repeat the process on the inner bleeder nipple. Repeat on the other side. Lubricate all suspension components. The steering stops should have some lube applied, too—I think the use of white lithium is recommended for these. Replace the wheels and torque the lug nuts to 100 ft lbs.

Bed the Pads

Run the car up to about 20 mph and lightly apply on/off pedal pressure with your left foot, dragging the brakes. Repeat this process for about 5 minutes. Increase speed to about 40 mph and begin to bring car to a more complete stop. Finally, increase speed to 50+ mph and bring the car to a number of complete stops. Allow brakes to cool before parking the car. After cooling down, pull the wheels and recheck all hardware, hoses and fittings for leaks, looseness, etc. Be sure to get your car aligned after any changes to the front suspension.