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Rear End Bushing Removal By Noel Haro |
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Background This came about when installing my new set of BMR lower control arms. When, it came to the bushings, I wated to replace them but I didn't buy the Metco tool cause I'd probably only use it once (or being the cheap bastard that I am [:-D] ). I looked around my the garage to see what I had to remove them. Read on and you'll see what I did. Now this tip came from someone whose name escapes my mind but comes in very handy. |
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When removing the control arms, there's no need to disconnect the brake lines and therefore, no brake bleeding. 1. Jack up the car as high as possible, chock the front wheels and put jackstands under the car. PLEASE TAKE ALL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS AS YOU WILL BE UNDER YOUR CAR FOR AWHILE. 2. Remove the bolt holding the brake line to the axle housing (at the top of the diff). 3. Open the tabs along the housing to detatach the brake lines from it. 4. While lowering the axle, bend the lines down for more slack. Be careful not to put and kinks in the line. Bend it smoothly and evenly. 5. Installation is the reverse. |
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Now to
the bushing removal.
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Specific Tools
After you remove the control arms and lower the rear end and frame to work on it, do the following: 1. With the rear end as low as possible, put a block of wood (or similar) on both sides of the rear end to stabilize it. 2. Get a gear puller which has the center bolt approximately the same diameter of the inner metal sleeve in the bushing. You'll place the puller on the back side of the bushing (facing the rear of the car) and pushing the metal sleeve towards the front of the car. 3. You'll notice that the bushing casing has an outer lip. I used a 3 prong puller and attached it there and centered the bolt on the metal sleeve. I used a ratchet to move push the sleeve out the other side. You can use an open end wrench as well. 4. Depending on the type of puller you use and how long the center bolt is, you may need some extra length to push it completely out. I used a small socket to get the "extra length" need to push the sleeve out completely. 5. Once you have the sleeve out, use a sawzall to cut a wedge out of the rubber bushing. You will only be able cut in certain areas due to things getting in your way. Alternatively, you can use a jigsaw but the blade won't be long enough to cut it all the way through. You'll have to cut it from both sides. And yes, the rubber will start to smoke and smell horrible. 6. Once there's a wedge out, cut the outer metal sleeve (facing the front of the car) through the wedge you've just cut out - cutting lengthwise from the back stopping at the axle. Make a few cuts. You can also cut the entire length of the metal housing but be careful not to cut into axle housing. 7. After you cut it, use a hammer to collapse the outer sleeve in. You don't have to completely collapse it. Just as long as the outer sleeve starts to come away from the axle housing. 8. Use a rubber mallet (anything with a big surface area) and hit it from the side facing the front of the car so the bushing flies out towards the back of the car. Trust me, it will fly. All it took was one hard hit. |
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That's it. It took me about 1/2 hour for one side and just 10-15 minutes for the other side (after I figured it out). I have no tips for installation of the new bushings other than starting it square with the axle housing and "working it in" by hitting it with the rubber mallet. YOU WILL GET TIRED swinging the mallet repeatedly. Keep a six pack handy. Noel Haro AKA impala_1995_ss on ISSF |