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Front End Suspension Kit

12K views 22 replies 9 participants last post by  supersporty 
#1 ·
I hear that theres complete front end kits, that can be purchased, and I need 2 sets ! I have a 94 SS and a 96 Roadmaster, and both need front end work, so while I am at it, i want to take care of it all...

Can anyone recommend a front end kit?? and where to purchase ??

Thanks
 
#2 ·
Far as I know both ProForged,and Hotchkis still offer complete kits. Kinda depends on what "complete" means to you. Not sure if ball joints,and/or control arm bushing are included in either kit...
 
#3 ·
You can get the parts from Rock auto. They sell complete upper and lower arms to bolt on, including the ball joints. I believe they have them in Moog, and house brands. The other parts can be purchased individually as well. It is a pretty simple list. Rock Auto may even have kits for the steering.


It is a lot easier to R&R the upper arms if you remove the studs, and reinstall them after placing the arms. You can use a standard nut instead of the pinched nut to draw the studs into the frame.


A full alignment is necessary after replacing the arms, not just a toe and go.
 
#4 ·
Most gratifying tightening up effect from the additive impact of replacing everything at the same time. Fred's right - all the micro-measuring you try matching link dimensions won't save anyone from a "legitimate" alignment; something only specialist shops still do. Budget 2+ hours and min. $150. I found a kit from an old forum supporter for about $25 cheaper than piecing it up myself, which was easier before online ordering became so painless. All the stoutest Moog Troubleshooter stuff thank you very much.

 
#5 ·
#6 · (Edited)
You can get a camber/caster gauge on ebay for $60, and up.


Snap on WA40 Magnetic Caster Camber Gauge | eBay


78260 78260 Longacre Magnetic Caster Camber Gauge | eBay


Make sure you get the magnetic adapter, or the 3/4-20 Chevy adapter.


The cheapest ones do not use a valid attachment point. The disk rotor will be less than flat, and not a good reference point for alignment purposes.


If you use it once, you have paid for it, and then some. If you use it a second time, it is a free alignment. You can also determine how much caster you want (up to the limits of adjustment).
 
#8 ·
You really can't go wrong with Moog or Proforged parts. Stay away from the Duralast, etc parts or any of those cheap kits you see on eBay....they're just that, CHEAP! Both are really stout parts. As someone else asked....what do you consider a complete rebuild? Some just do the hard parts....BJ's, tie rods, end links, etc. but if you're looking to do the entire front, this may also include bushings as well.

You have some options there too, go with poly bushings or stick with stock. If you decide to keep your original arms, you can borrow all the tools you need from AZ or whoever loans tools and save yourself some money. The other option is get the arms already loaded or take your arms to a shop and have the parts removed and pressed in.

There are many threads on how to replace things if you DIY. Be sure to get the car aligned and if you remove the upper arms, be sure to get new nuts that secure the upper arms to the frame and don't reuse the originals. They lose their effectiveness to hold and you could lose shims or worse.
 
#9 ·
I found that ebay had the best prices as well. The parts on my list I was going to replace were.....

2 lower ball joints
2 end links
1 billet adjuster
2 tie rod ends
1 idler arm
2 inner tie rod ends
2 upper ball joints

On ebay I found Pro Forged parts, and all of them totaled just under $290. I was also going to pick up ZQ8 bumpstops... The only ones I find are the Doormans. Anyone got any experience with the doormans ??? Dont wanna have to pay for them if theyre not worth it ... I already got a **** ton of money to spend .....
 
#13 ·
As far as the zq8 bumpstops, Fred is probably right. You probably don't need them if you're at stock height but if you do go lower they made a huge difference in resisting bottoming out and scrubbing tire to fender on my car. You also mentioned not being able to find them. I got mine at my local gm parts distributor, Midwest Auto Parts for like 14 bucks. I imagine your local gm parts distributor can easily get them too, but if not, Midwest can ship them to you.
 
#10 ·
If you are not lowering the car the ZQ8 bump stops are not necessary.
 
#11 ·
Just as 4DOORSS mentioned, I am big fan of MOOG suspension components. I got all my stuff for both vehicles pictured in my SIG from RockAuto.

As an FYI, you can see & Buy the suspension components directly from MOOG

For both vehicles I bought all the front end components, but purchased Global West's Del-A-Lum bushings for the upper & lower control arms. I degreased & blasted the arms, had them powder coated, and had a buddy press them in. They just about eliminate body roll when you turn the vehicle. I love them.
 
#12 ·
I got my Hotchkiss front end rebuild kit off Summit for like $280 shipped. Easier than piecing things together. I haven't installed them yet but everything looks extremely robust.
 
#14 ·
I pieced everything together for my 95 Caprice using all AC Delco parts on Amazon. Had it all in 2 days w/ prime. Everything seemed to be top notch parts and the car steered like new when I was done and it was aligned.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Kind of did the same thing except upgraded some Moog part with some GM parts. :wink2: When upgrading to 5/8" ball joints, I used info found in the stickies to improve on some of the Moog and get some upgraded GM stuff. In this thread is a list of all the part numbers I used when upgrading. Some of this info may help you when ordering parts and deciding what to replace.

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/17-suspension/351769-my-5-8-bj-install-pics-tips-part-s.html

All of the items are doable if you can borrow some tools. No need to pay a shop to do what you can or spend more money on loaded arms. Keep in mind that the attached thread is using 5/8" lower BJ's but think same options are available in the standard 9/16"lower BJ using Moog parts.
 
#20 ·
DLZ? Are you kidding me? When only the cheapest,and crappiest parts will do,huh...
 
#23 ·
Believe it or not... I have heard several horror stories about DLZ ... and at the same time, I have heard many accounts of people using these parts with no issues at all, and to take it even further, I heard that DLZ manufactures a lot of parts for MOOG .... So thats why I asked here, because just like everything else in the game... theres 10 different opinions about everything. The only real way to find out, is to install them, and see what they do ....

Im probably going to end up picking up the Hotchkis kit, or the Pro Forged, but I ran across DLZ on the internet, and thought maybe I could get lucky, and buy 2 kits for about $200... and that they would hold up well. Just fantasizing over here ....trying to save some money, because this **** is getting expensive ...
 
#22 ·
Here is a list of what I ordered from Amazon. Total came to $201.34+tax. Consists of AC Delco and Moog. Everything was top notch quality.


Items Ordered Price 2 of: ACDelco 45A0184 Professional Outer Steering Tie Rod End
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC

Condition: New
$21.51
2 of: ACDelco 45A0590 Professional Inner Steering Tie Rod End
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC

Condition: New
$20.38
1 of: ACDelco 45C1082 Professional Idler Link Arm
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC

Condition: New

1 of: Moog DS899 Steering Center Link Tie Rod End
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC

Condition: New
$57.82
1 of: ACDelco 45A6004 Professional Steering Tie Rod End Adjuster
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC

Condition: New





1 of: ACDelco 45A6004 Professional Steering Tie Rod End Adjuster
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC

Condition: New
$12.21

$12.21

$35.32
 
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