Now that this 94 FWB I'm working on has had the control arms replaced and a proper alignment I can start looking at other issues with the suspension and steering.
Ever since we've had this car we've noticed that the steering's tendency to return to center is very weak and after a certain point reached early in turning the wheels is basically non-existent. Now that the suspension is aligned to spec, it hasn't gotten any better. I don't remember whether this was the case with the one I drove not many years after it was made - is this normal for the platform and if so, is there anything other than a non-factory-spec alignment to be done about it?
Did they/you replace the nuts that secure the upper control arms and may have been loosened during the Alignment process? If not, check that they did not back out and you lost shims. These nuts really should be replaced as part of the alignment. They loosen up after a use or 2 and won't hold their position and keep the shims from falling out.
Did they/you replace the nuts that secure the upper control arms and may have been loosened during the Alignment process? If not, check that they did not back out and you lost shims. These nuts really should be replaced as part of the alignment. They loosen up after a use or 2 and won't hold their position and keep the shims from falling out.
The stock settings for the caster is probably the issue. You can increase the caster by removing shims from the front stack, and adding the same amount to the rear on both sides. Moving 0.030 (1/32 inch) from the front to the back will give you almost 1/2 degree of increased caster. It will not upset the rest of your alignment, although you could have your toe checked just to verify that. There is a thread about improved alignment specs on the forum. Often there are thick shims in the stack, and you can put thinner ones in, and/or move them from front to back to achieve your desired settings. Measure, and write down the size of the stack and keep the shims together, so you do not mix them up, or forget what the original was, in case you want to go back to that. A little dab of different color paint on each stack of shims, also helps identify the original location. Most of the shims have the size stamped on them, but you should have a calipers, or micrometer to measure them just in case.
The return is generally weak on the B and D body cars, and the caster determines the desire for the wheels to return to straight. The more you have the more you get.
You mentioned you had an alignment done, and you don't appear the type to have used a 'toe-n-go' chain.
That said, I'll offer my FWs have had the squishiest and most vague overall steering of any car out there, including my wife's Tribute!
Now years back when trying to cure cloverleaf jerkover I did not feel appreciable difference when unplugging the Variable Effort boost potentiometer, thus sending system into fulltime/full boost (it's at the firewall). There's a very detailed thread on the differences between CHEV-Buick-Cady pumps (Joel?), and for a car that's already had previously "wrong repairs" it may be yours had an incorrect replacement.
Yes, I used a local specialist shop - all they do is suspension and brakes.
FYI, the newer alignment rigs are no longer able to align the FW or the equally-fender-obscuring-tire early B-bodies. The newer laser alignment rigs do not fit under the rear fenders and require special adapters in order to work - which most shops didn't purchase.
That said, I'll offer my FWs have had the squishiest and most vague overall steering of any car out there, including my wife's Tribute!
Yeah, I've driven worse but they're usually older American rigs from the 70s.
Now years back when trying to cure cloverleaf jerkover I did not feel appreciable difference when unplugging the Variable Effort boost potentiometer, thus sending system into fulltime/full boost (it's at the firewall). There's a very detailed thread on the differences between CHEV-Buick-Cady pumps (Joel?), and for a car that's already had previously "wrong repairs" it may be yours had an incorrect replacement.
One thing we're looking at doing is replacing this Saginaw box with one from another car that doesn't have variable ratio and does have better feel/feedback. It's looking like one from a Jeep ZJ Grand Cherokee is the best candidate, but that's something for another time.
I picked up a lightly used camber/caster gauge a few years ago, on ebay, for about $66. It has the magnet mount for the hub. I can set my camber and caster at home. I also made a set of toe gauges, and they work with a couple of tape measures. The camber/caster gauges have paid for themselves a few times over. After the first alignment, they are free. A good, and I mean complete, alignment costs about $130 here in FL. I can do the same quality of alignment in my driveway.
Wow... that camber spec is pretty crap. Little wonder the return to center is so poor. I know they were trying to reduce steering effort on these cars, but that's ridiculous.
What's the maximum adjustment range for this system?
I am looking at the alignment chart in my FSM, and the camber is supposed to be +0.8 deg. and neutral caster is 3.5 deg. Both of these are + or- 0.5 deg. Toe is +0.16 deg., and plus or minus 0.2 deg.
To adjust for the crown of the road, you can put more caster on one side. A quarter of a degree of camber will achieve the same results and still be within specs. I did not specify which side, because some of our readers are from countries who drive on the left side of the road, and would do the opposite of those who drive on the right side. 1/2 degree more total caster will not hurt the performance of the steering.
slight differences with your manual .. the GM HELMS is what I have . camber is zero .that is how I set them tires wear perfect .
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