Removing front control arm bushing? - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-23-2010, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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Removing front control arm bushing?

Im trying to get these out. I tried burning the rubber out on one of them but the outter sleeve does not want to give.

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-23-2010, 07:18 PM
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Most people drill/cut the rubber out of the old bushing, and then cave in the sleeve through whatever means you prefer, without damaging the control arm.


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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-23-2010, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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How well do the tools made for it work? My ball joint press is just a little too big to do it.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 12:31 AM
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You talking upper or lower?

Lower can be removed with a properly-sized hammer/sledge, applied at the correct angle on the INNER lip of the bushing shell. The control arm is placed on it's side on a suitable supporting surface--work bench, large block of wood, etc, with the bushing "cantilevered" over the edge/end of whatever surface you're using--so there's room under the arm for the shell to move out of position. Hold the arm with one hand, and strike the bushing shell correctly and it will pop loose from the arm with no other effort.

TRUST ME, I've done enough of these.

Yes, corrosion and age can be issues.....and unless you're talking about uppers, that's how I have done it for quite a long time--and successfully. It is NOT how the book says to do it, I will admit....and the proper way to install new bushings is still using a press/tool of one type or another.

Uppers are more involved, so please say which you're having problems with.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 03:58 AM Thread Starter
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Lowers, I havent even tried the uppers yet.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Navy Lifer View Post
You talking upper or lower?

Lower can be removed with a properly-sized hammer/sledge, applied at the correct angle on the INNER lip of the bushing shell. The control arm is placed on it's side on a suitable supporting surface--work bench, large block of wood, etc, with the bushing "cantilevered" over the edge/end of whatever surface you're using--so there's room under the arm for the shell to move out of position. Hold the arm with one hand, and strike the bushing shell correctly and it will pop loose from the arm with no other effort.

TRUST ME, I've done enough of these.

Yes, corrosion and age can be issues.....and unless you're talking about uppers, that's how I have done it for quite a long time--and successfully. It is NOT how the book says to do it, I will admit....and the proper way to install new bushings is still using a press/tool of one type or another.

Uppers are more involved, so please say which you're having problems with.
I have done the uppers the same way for years. A good air hammer with chisel works wonders. Walks even the most rusted bushings right out. It will beat up your body real well though.

Terry
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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Well guys it was a bear getting mine out. I used a torch to burn the rubber out and had to use a dremel to cut notches in the bushing shell then alot of beating and cussing.

The Kent Moore tool for doing it is $800! My ball joint press wouldnt work I didnt have the right adaptor cups.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010, 08:01 PM
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Here is a tip when doing the uppers.
Remove one busing & then you can remove the shaft, then the second bushing.
Reverse to install.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
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I used this tool on the uppers and it was a piece of cake!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00170UTYY/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0028QGT90&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=05EGWFXQ562E944B8FTC

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010, 08:06 PM
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I always install the rear bushing first due to it sitting more flush in the arm.
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