tie rods/inner/outer/left/right. - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-09-2012, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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tie rods/inner/outer/left/right.

Does it matter? inner/outer/left/right?
Just got all the moog problem solver parts.
Tie rods have different p/n's but look the same. Is it in there movement that determines where they go?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-09-2012, 09:00 PM
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One is RH thread and the other is LH thread. Left or right doesn't matter, but inner and outer does. You gotta have one of each on each side for the the tie rod sleeves to work.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-09-2012, 09:51 PM
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Typically,
The outer will have the grease fitting opposite the stud in the center of the cap and a slight bend to alter the stud angle.

The inner has the grease fitting out the end and no bend


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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-10-2012, 05:51 AM
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Moog outer tie rod ends are the same p.n.

Left or right, the Moog OUTER tie rods aka The Problem Solver- are same pn-ES2019RLT. I see that you can change out the stock cinch bolt style to a Jam nut style, but there is a considerable increase in money to do that. Is it worth the big difference? Is it a better design as to strength or just easier to adjust?
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-10-2012, 06:18 AM
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I just installed the Moog problem solver parts a few days ago. Seems like Moog changed their parts a bit; I was please to see that all were still made in the good ol US of A.

Below is a pic of the old parts. Note how the outers have a bend whereas the inners are straight. As mentioned both sides are the same #s.



I replaced everything so it was an easy drop of the whole assembly. The alignment is still good judging by the tracking and steering wheel orientation. I am doing the ball joints and bushings next with tires and alignment to follow (some time this summer).

Use a tape measure and get a center to center distance for each tie rod assembly. I measured from the center of the grease fitting (outer) to the center of the backside (inner).


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Originally Posted by Jim Spahr View Post
I see that you can change out the stock cinch bolt style to a Jam nut style,
Whats that? The sleeve that joins the tie rods? I just installed the typical Moog clamp type sleeve. It is a very nice part (heavy duty). Much better than the old TRW part. The tie rods came with a castle nut and cotter pin.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-10-2012, 08:06 AM
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I was talking about the 'tie rod sleeve.'

I didn't make it very clear, but I was thinking about the tie rod sleeve. I see the jam nut type is a solid tube, where the stock cinch bolt type is slit length wise to allow the two bolts to squeeze it tight. It looks like the jam nut style is inherently a stronger unit.
Some one mentioned grease fittings above. Anyone here using the grease fitting caps (like me) to keep out the grit and grime?
BTW my pass. side outer tie rod was dangerously loose. I think the pass. side wears before the driver's side because of the extra beating it takes: from curbs and from the off road onto the shoulder swerves. It would be a great idea to check those tie rods and other suspension parts for play.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-23-2012, 11:03 AM
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Sparh
You are correct on the pass side outer tie rod. That was worn a lot more than any other part...as you said dangerously loose.

Whurd ya git the fitting caps?

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-23-2012, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Spahr View Post
I didn't make it very clear, but I was thinking about the tie rod sleeve. I see the jam nut type is a solid tube, where the stock cinch bolt type is slit length wise to allow the two bolts to squeeze it tight. It looks like the jam nut style is inherently a stronger unit.
These?



Got a pair laying around somewhere waiting for me to actually do the front end work.


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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-24-2012, 07:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Spahr View Post
....I was thinking about the tie rod sleeve. I see the jam nut type is a solid tube, where the stock cinch bolt type is slit length wise to allow the two bolts to squeeze it tight. It looks like the jam nut style is inherently a stronger unit.

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Originally Posted by ScottLC View Post
These?

There are a number of sources for solid adjuster sleeves, and I'm not knocking any of them, per se--I've got 'em on my SS. The OE parts are not necessarily inferior--the design allows the sleeves to become sacrificial in an impact situation to potentially reduce damage to other more expensive parts of the steering linkage/gear or suspension - especially steering gear & steering arms/knuckles.

OE also looks at cost vs benefit--do the minimum necessary to control cost.

Bottom line--stronger is not always better, since it means the high load of an impact will tend to do the most harm at the weak point, and if you modify the system to "beef up" specific areas, it means the potential damage from a high load situation will typically move to the new weak(est) point(s)--which could involve more expensive parts than adjuster sleeves, in this case.

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-24-2012, 09:39 AM
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tie rods/inner/outer/left/right.

I like the solid sleeves both for their appearance,and ease of use. My big gripes on the factory style is they tend to fill up with dirt/rust,and are often difficult to adjust down the road. I also like the little plastic caps for grease fittings. I think Eastwood carries them 100/bag, very inexpensive.
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