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Air pump

5K views 30 replies 12 participants last post by  91ss 
#1 ·
Hello, I know there are a ton of posts on this. I read and did not find the TSB very helpful. I have searched and seen different things being said and different problems encountered. What I am wondering is if there is a step by step with pics anywhere that works. I have a 95 that's blowing fuses and I want to remove it. I have not messed with too many emission items before and I dont want to screw this up. Thanks in advance for any info.
 
#2 ·
The TSB is only about disabling and NOT removing the pump. If you want to remove the pump and associated items, there is lots of info on the forum. Just try to do a search and you will find all you need.


There is also this video online by our member "Goldmaster" that you may find helpful.



There really s not much to the process, other than remove and cap off the exhaust ports.
 
#3 ·
if you want to just stop blowing fuses, just unplug it.
mine kept popping the fuse, so i just unplugged it.
 
#4 ·
Be aware there are differences between the '95,and '96 models...
 
#8 ·
Ok. But if adding removal, then on a '96 you have to be mindful when sticking your cutoff wheel in carefully near the lower passenger side of the timing cover to slice the tube apart for easier removal that you do not damage the crank position sensor or wiring.

Which the '95 don't got. lol

Another hint. Once slicing said metal tube in half it's best to twist the remaining pass piece back and forth from the top until snapping off the weak little alum tack welds at the frame mounting tab. And then take the next 15 minutes twisting and bending, and twisting and bending, against fulcrum points on the frame (not against a spark plug) until it comes free.

You'll need a rubber cork at the removed hose in the airbox.
 
#6 ·
As mentioned, he has a 95 so there really is nothing for him to worry about with disabling/unplugging the pump or removal if he decides to remove the whole damn mess. Sure if he had a 96, then he would also have to consider programming the ODB2 PCM for its removal. All this is already mentioned in the numerous posts on this subject.

With the fuse blowing, it could just be the pump motor and/or wiring for the pump is shorted out somehow. If nothing else with the car is affected by this blown fuse and assuming its the 1 for the pump, why not just leave the blown fuse in? By doing this you have essentially already disabled the pump. :wink2:
 
#7 ·
Been so long since mine was done,but I think the hood light was also on that fuse. Try pulling the relay to see if that solves the problem.
 
#10 ·
I did read the other posts about the pump. I know there is a lot of info, but there is also a lot of conflicting info. The 95 doesn't need a re-programing, but I also read it should be re-programmed. There is so many different things out there, that's why I was asking if there was a step by step guide. Thanks for the video by the way, 4DoorSS. I have to leave the fuse out because it blows every time, so it is unplugged basically. but I just wanted to clean up the engine AND do it right.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Nothing conflicting. Just dive in and doit. Picture it as the '95's computer with OBD-I don't know or care if you remove the pump, and does not feel the need to announce it on the dashboard. The '96's computer with OBD-II was told to thinks it's important and turns on the CEL, but there's no impact to performance at all, - for either year. The only reason to get the computer reprogrammed is to turn off the light, which is annoying to some people or will spell failure if your state/county/city has emissions testing. Otherwise, a black round paper dot from Office Depot or removing the CEL bulb will eradicate the offending light. I have a '96 and removed the pump and the light is on. Of course, it's also because I have a 'Crank Position Sensor' fault, which is another entirely useless signal required by the government but meaning nothing on our cars using an OPTI.

Point being, just get going and any questions coming up during the work will be answered by what's already been posted. GL
 
#12 ·
Before removing be sure to check with your State that this won't cause you a problem come inspection time. Maybe in Hawaii you don't have to worry about it. The worst thing to remove is the metal crossover tube and most times it needs to be destroyed to get it out of there.
 
#13 ·
Before removing be sure to check with your State that this won't cause you a problem come inspection time. .
IDK what Hawaii has on emissions but if it is as stupid as Calif., you can't remove it. Maybe 95 OBD1 can fly under the radar on that. 96, in Calif., no way.

If fuse is blowing because of air pump, just unplug the air pump itself or pull the air pump relay from under hood fuse box. IIRC the OBD1 you don't need a PCM flash to keep the CEL off.

the metal pipe is held on the engine with one bolt on PS accessory bracket (between block & bracket) and the air pump bracket to block bolt on DS IIRC. You would need to loosen all the accessory bracket bolts some and remove the one on PS to pull the pipe out from underneath...or cut bend/break as noted by others. Removing the pump itself is straight forward and then you need to get the right caps for the exhaust manifolds

When GM issued the TSB they decided the air pump was not needed for the car to meet emissions. They had problems with moisture collecting inside these pumps and causing problems with that water getting sucked into the intake. Their cheapest path out was to "disable" it vs "removing" the entire system. It is the language "disable", at least for OBD2 cars, that the State of Calif. won't let you remove it. BS but the way it is here. Maybe in the Op's case his 95 does not matter unless Hawaii emission testing says otherwise
 
#15 ·
Nope, no emissions in Hawaii. At times I wish they did, because of the plumes of oil smoke that pour out of some cars is enough to cloud CA, OR and WA also. We do have yearly inspections, but if the CEL is on you fail, even if its just because of tpms sensor batteries. Some places dont care if they know you...
 
#31 ·
but if the CEL is on you fail,
Well, just found out you'll probably fail, if you just pulled the relay.

Last week, pulled the relay on the 95. All seemed good. Parked it and haven't used it all week. Started it up Saturday to jump start the 91. Was idling for about 5 minutes when noticed the fans were running. Seemed odd as it wasn't long enough to get that hot.

Later when I went to shut it off, the CEL was on. Scanned it and it showed a code 29, air pump circuit check. Popped the relay back in and all was good.

FYI - Looked at the latest pcm bin available. Difference, among others, it disables setting the code (no CEL) and raises the minimum ECT pump enable temperature to 150 deg C, pump never runs.
 
#20 ·
since the air pump fuse blows it is a bad air pump motor not hard to replace but the motor failed because of the manifold check valves need replacing.

so since no emissions testing removing the fuse and using a pipe plug remove the 2 manifold check valves and plug up those air pipes.

if replacing the air pump the check valves require replacing as this is what kills the pump motor.
 
#21 ·
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...ntenance/349826-air-pump-replacement-tsb.html

The long story, short:
If your pcm has the latest OS update - 2002 - your AIRpump should never turn on again. Thus, spending any money to fix the hardware is a waste of time, energy, materials, and, well, money - and it won't improve your engine's emissions performance either way.

To say anymore about this would be redundant, so I'll just say, please stop wasting your money, and stop encouraging others to waste theirs.
 
#22 ·
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...ntenance/349826-air-pump-replacement-tsb.html

The long story, short:
If your pcm has the latest OS update - 2002 - your AIRpump should never turn on again. Thus, spending any money to fix the hardware is a waste of time, energy, materials, and, well, money - and it won't improve your engine's emissions performance either way.

To say anymore about this would be redundant, so I'll just say, please stop wasting your money, and stop encouraging others to waste theirs.
the manifold check valves must be plugged up ... your wrong on stating you don't have to do anything. this will cause exhaust gases to bypass the cat converter also if nothing is changed exhaust gases will enter the intake just passed the air box filter.

these issues need attention or the PCM will not manage the fuel ratios properly.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Redundant for a reason

Please read the following Tech Service Bulletin, especially the parenthetical:

Technical - Water in AIR Pump and/or DTC P0410, P0412, P0415, P0416, P0100, P0101, P0102 or DTC 48 (AIR System Disable Procedure) #01-06-04-011

Word for word:
Water in AIR Pump and/or DTC P0410, P0412, P0415, P0416, P0100, P0101, P0102 or DTC 48 (AIR System Disable Procedure)
1995-1996 Buick Roadmaster
1995-1996 Cadillac Fleetwood
1995-1996 Chevrolet Caprice, Impala SS
with 4.3L or 5.7L Engine (VINs W, P -- RPOs L99, LT1)

Condition
Some customers may comment of a hesitation during heavy/full throttle acceleration.
A 1996 vehicle may also set any of the following DTCs:
P0410
P0412
P1415
P1416
P0100
P0101
P0102
A 1995 vehicle may set a DTC 48.

There will also be evidence of water in the AIR pump.

Cause
Under high engine speed and load conditions, hot exhaust gasses may leak past the air check valves.
As the exhaust gasses in the air tube cool, water vapors collect into the AIR pump.
As the vehicle is driven, condensation from the AIR pump may come into contact with the Mass Airflow Sensor through the AIR inlet hose.
This condition may cause a hesitation on acceleration and may also set the DTCs.

Correction
To correct this condition, a Secondary AIR Injection Pump disable procedure has been developed.
(It has been determined that the Secondary AIR Injection system is not required to meet emission requirements for these vehicles only.)
In short, GM says nothing about repairing or replacing check valves, or replacing the AIRpump - it only mentions disabling the AIRpump.

The rest of the TSB is instructional.
1. Locate the relay center and air cleaner box.
2. Remove the AIR hose and clamp from the air cleaner box.
3. Insert the plug into the air cleaner box AIR hose inlet.
4. Install the AIR hose and clamp to the air cleaner box.

5. Remove the cover from the relay center.
6. Remove AIR pump relay from the relay center.
7. Install the relay cover.

8. Install new emission label to radiator support.
9. Update vehicle calibration. (1995 4.3L L99 Caprice, and 1996 vehicles)
None of the TSB's text mentions anything at all about either replacing any check valves or replacing the AIRpump - only disabling it permanently.
Steps 1-4 prevent the engine from inhaling whatever the AIRpump exhales. It also prevents the AIRpump from doing what it was originally intended to do.
Steps 5-7 PERMANENTLY disables the AIRpump [even before updating the pcm].
[Step 8 goes without saying, duh.]
Step 9 permanently deactivates not only the AIRpump, but also the AIRpump codes.
None of the TSB's pics (which I don't know how to include) show anything except how to separate the AIRpump from the intake, which would also prevent the AIRpump from doing its originally intended job.
Nothing whatsoever about repairing or replacing any check valves.

I generally avoid 'helping' people waste their money, time, energy, material, or space.
Fixing the AIRpump is precisely the kind of waste that I prefer to help people avoid.
That's wrong? Really? No problem.
 
#26 ·
Please read the following Tech Service Bulletin, especially the parenthetical:

Technical - Water in AIR Pump and/or DTC P0410, P0412, P0415, P0416, P0100, P0101, P0102 or DTC 48 (AIR System Disable Procedure) #01-06-04-011

Word for word:In short, GM says nothing about repairing or replacing check valves, or replacing the AIRpump - it only mentions disabling the AIRpump.

The rest of the TSB is instructional.None of the TSB's text mentions anything at all about either replacing any check valves or replacing the AIRpump - only disabling it permanently.
Steps 1-4 prevent the engine from inhaling whatever the AIRpump exhales. It also prevents the AIRpump from doing what it was originally intended to do.
Steps 5-7 PERMANENTLY disables the AIRpump [even before updating the pcm].
[Step 8 goes without saying, duh.]
Step 9 permanently deactivates not only the AIRpump, but also the AIRpump codes.
None of the TSB's pics (which I don't know how to include) show anything except how to separate the AIRpump from the intake, which would also prevent the AIRpump from doing its originally intended job.
Nothing whatsoever about repairing or replacing any check valves.

I generally avoid 'helping' people waste their money, time, energy, material, or space.
Fixing the AIRpump is precisely the kind of waste that I prefer to help people avoid.
That's wrong? Really? No problem.
Thanks Marky for taking the time to better explain the TSB Procedure for others that could be confused and not understand the realities of the Smog Pump. GM later discovered that the System is faulty, provided ZERO benefit and could possibly damage other and more expensive parts not to mention the drivability issues. Choosing to keep the system functioning, let alone repair and/or do regular tests on is certainly a Waste of Time and Money. For the purists out there wanting to keep a stock appearance or for Smog Check reasons, just follow the TSB procedures.

Based on GM’s reasoning behind the TSB and what you described so well, this TSB (to me) should be “required” on any car. Why leave a system in place that does nothing and could quite possibly damage other parts of the car?? The fact that GM realized there was an issue and chose to do this for drivability reasons and to protect other parts, makes perfect sense. To not realize this and continue to keep it functioning or spend any amount of time either repairing/testing the system, makes NO sense.

 
#24 ·
I have done all this and I also have the helms manual . my check valves failed there is a test procedure. they failed causing exhaust to enter not just the air pump but also the air intake and fouled my MAF.

you may not be interested in the real deal , but others after reading this best plug up those check valves if the air pump is shutdown or defective .

I still have my air pump working , the one I replaced about 10 yrs ago along with the check valves that also were replaced , which by the way are a rubber product.

I test these check valves every year.
 
#25 ·
I have done all this and I also have the helms manual. my check valves failed there is a test procedure.
they failed causing exhaust to enter not just the air pump but also the air intake and fouled my MAF.
That's what the General Motors Technical Service Bulletin [you seem to be ignoring] already said in 2002.
you may not be interested in the real deal, but others after reading this best plug up those check valves if the air pump is shutdown or defective.
If you mean, to protect the MAF and the intake from the AIRpump, the TSB accomplishes this - without bothering to fix the AIRpump.

I've not only read the TSB, I've watched the TSB being performed in 2003.
I've also personally read the latest operating system calibrations.

What is 'unreal' about General Motors Tech Service Bulletin #01-06-04-011?
TSB #01-06-04-011
a) specifically mentions blocking the AIRpump line to the intake to prevent ever polluting the MAF or the intake again
b) then electrically de-powering the AIRpump by removing the relay
c) then updating the operating system to [redundantly] prevent the AIRpump from ever activating again, as well as disabling the AIRpump codes

Performing the AIRpump TSB also permanently protects the MAF and the air intake from the AIRpump, by the way.
I still have my air pump working, the one I replaced about 10 yrs ago along with the check valves that also were replaced, which by the way are a rubber product.

I test these check valves every year.
If your pcm has the latest calibration, then it doesn't matter if your check valves 'check out good' - capable or not, your AIRpump no longer does any work anyway.
 
#27 ·
What sucks is the language in the TSB says "disable" vs "remove". GM did not want to pay the labor to "remove" the air pump and its associated plumbing. They just wanted to pull a relay, plug air inlet at pump and re-flash PCM (OBD2) which is a much cheaper repair procedure vs removing all the crap

In Calif. I asked the "test Only" station if I can remove it (I have the GM sticker and TSB), answer no, you fail "visual". I go to the next step which is a Emission Referee...no. I go to the State agency governing the Referee and after 20 min with the guy on the phone reading the entire TSB he says.."If it were up to me I would say its ok to remove....but"....and I reply and say..."well we are at the point where it is up to you.."...and he says "It says disable, not remove so it has to stay on the car"...and then says "try another smog shop". I can keep trying shops until I find one that will let it slide but the ones I have gone to and asked if I can remove it say no. I don't want to get into a dance where every 2 years I need to put it back on.

My argument with the State guy & the referee is that this device is legally disabled but now one of the check valves is leaking so now I have a disabled device that has failed and now IS a emission issue and I have to pay to fix a device that has been determined non-effective, can be disabled but not removed. The State guy said "yeah I see your reasoning..." but again refereed to the language in the TSB

We all know why GM said "disable vs "remove"...they did not want to pay the labor to "remove" it and the associated components. GM certainly didn't want to pay for replacing MAF's either so they just "disabled" the air pump system

My story about the check valve leaking was a "what if" scenario and not my situation. I used it as an example of how fing stupid removing the air pump is in violation of Calif. Emission law. Yeah many have removed it and capped their exhaust manifold in Calif. but the two "test only" stations (I have to go to these stations as the SS is classified as "high emitter profile" here in Calif)said no. So these "Test Only" aka "STAR" stations play by the book as they face severe fines and loss of smog cert license if they are found to falsify test results, in this case "visual" in regards to if the air pump is installed or not.

In addition to calif. doing everything they can do to get these cars off the road they also changed the law last year allowing only one IM monitor to show "not ready" vs the 2 it had always been. My 383 h/c header car always showed 2 not ready so that was never a problem until this year....so I had my pcm "adjusted" to now show all 8 are "ready" all the time. Another fing dance to get to pass smog. Even though tailpipe readings are WELL below MAX threshold....and isn't that the source of pollutants going into the air...yes...but I digress.

If emission testing does not prevent you from removing it...take the fing thing off as it has no function in reducing emissions and if components of the air pump system fail other critical parts of the car (MAF) can be compromised causing drive-ability and emission issues

end of rant...back to your regularly scheduled programming
 
#29 ·
BallSS - You Cali guys sure have it rough when it comes to Emissions. I almost feel guilty complaining about what we deal with which is nothing to what you Left Coast guys deal with. I was glad to get my Airpump circuit removed. At least having the ability to disable the system for you guys helps to prevent problems.
 
#30 ·
Hood Light

I just posted this on another thread but this is my story and so far, so good!

Hood Light
Just a quick thought for 95/OBD1 owner's. I just did this tonight after a 6 pack and a need for some grimey hands lol.

1st: Check the relay (easy, under the hood, fuse check), Replace if any signs of corrosion/melted-ness
2nd: Check 3rd fuse - If hood light isn't hot then third fuse is most likely blown (this fuse seemed to disguise itself as a clear fuse, don't ask me why).
3rd: Reach underneath the air pump (Connector is almost dead underneath the air pump toward's the radiator) and unplug. Pull the plug towards the wiring harness and zip tie that SOB, safely to the harness, and wrap with black electrical tape. Just in case...
4th: Check the under hood bulb (replace if necessary)
Lastly: Replace with the same fuse if possible.

P.S. I pulled a beat out 25 mini fuse after pulling the air pump plug. I replaced it with a 20 mini and now I have a little extra light under the hood. May or may not short, but i'll figure that out when it come's up
 
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