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Install New Heads & Cam - Remove motor?

9K views 14 replies 11 participants last post by  DeanC24 
#1 ·
How feasible is it to remove and install new heads and a cam with the motor in the car?
Anyone done this with the motor in, with good success?
I have done this in the past, but the motor was already out.
So I am not sure what obstacles I might run into when the motor is still in the car.
I have taken the motor out a time before, but I am no expert.
Plus I wasn't pressed for time.
This time, I need to get it back to running ASAP.
Thanks for the information.
 
#2 ·
You will probably have trouble getting the head bolts torqued near the firewall...hard to get a socket onto those, especially on passenger side. I would pull the motor and take the opportunity to clean and paint the block. This will also allow better clean and paint of the engine bay.
 
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#3 ·
it can be done....but given you are bending over the fender to do everything and having to pull radiator then move out AC condenser so you have enough room to stab cam and the fact you need to raise engine to drop front of pan....ouch just describing it.

pull the motor and work on a engine stand WAY easier IMHO
 
#4 ·
In my car, there was no way to move the condenser enough to get a cam out. The lines just would not give enough to make it doable. For me, at least, the condenser had to come out - which was ok, since I was rebuilding the entire AC system at the same time. That being said, if I wasn't planning on at least evacuating and recharging the system, there'd have been no way to do a cam swap without destroying the AC hard-lines in the process.

From zero to engine on a stand, it can be done in 4-5 hours or so. Less if you've got everything in order and don't stop for beer and pizza. Its not a hard job - just a lot of steps.
 
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#5 ·
ok!

Well then. Answered that.
Looks like she is getting pulled.
:)

Thanks
 
#15 ·
Wifes Car




I ended up digging into the wifes car.
Being that things just weren't working out for me and your car (bad timing everytime I turned around) - I took it as a sign.
It may have worked out for the best in the end.
I have pretty much had the wifes permission to do whatever.
So I am having fun.
:)
Before the end of the year, I will have LE2 head/cam package, control arms, and new wheels.
New tint on all the windows is in process. Old stuff was bubbling around edges.
Just spent 3 days reconditioning the paint (horrible water spots).
Now it looks brand new!

Hope all is well on your end.
Still taking yours out on the weekend?
Take care!
 
#8 ·
i did it with the motor in the car the first time and my problem was dropping the oil pan down enough to clear the timing cover so it wont rip the seal. i tried not to rip that seal but so much time and dirt on my hands and alot of cussing i just RIP the timing cover off. after putting everything back together the bottom of the timing cover is leaking oil. maybe a quart a week. one day i forgot to put oil in the motor and locked the motor doing 65mph on the highway on my way to work. needless to say i wouldve done a much better job if the motor was OUT. dropping the oil pan down by itself is a pain in the ass. u still gotta lift the motor up anyways so might as well take it out. 4-5 hours sound right if you know what your doing. now if u never taken the motor out the things u might bump into that prove difficult is removing and installing the crossmember, the headers, and the motor. if i had to do it again i still wouldnt do the "CAM" swap while it's in the car.
 
#9 ·
When I bought my heads/cam car the previous owner was telling me about all the work they had done to it. At one point he said they had the whole motor out of the car and apart. I thought that was weird for a heads/cam install based on other cars I've owned but now I guess I know why lol
 
#10 ·
Pulling Motor in Impala/caprice

You can pull the motor in 1/2 a day or less. Here is a list of a few time savers.
1. If you have an engine hoist you do not need to remove the hood.
2. Don't remove the radiator, or the fans. Just tape a piece of cardboard behind the fans.
3. Remove battery. the vacant spot is where you put the AC compressor
4. Take off the alternator, TB and coil. Prevents breakage.
5. Disconnect power steering lines and take pump out with engine.
6. Label wiring connectors as you disconnect them. Especially the O2 connectors.

Your back will thank you.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Everyone does this differently. Here are my suggestions:
- Remove the radiator and fans. It only takes one little wayward swing from the engine to pick a hole in it. Also gets that **** out of your way.
- Plan ahead. Before the work starts, make sure you've got 4 new steam-pipe washers and a new power steering low-pressure hose (if its never been taken off...). You can thank me for the PS hose suggestion later. The steam pipe washers must be GM - accept no substitutes. YMMV. Now would also be a good time to get new knock sensors, plugs, wires, and new 02's if yours are a bit long-in-the-tooth.
- If you can, pull the knock sensors and water pump before you disconnect the ignition and fueling. That way, you can fully drain the block of coolant and save yourself a hell of a mess once the engine starts to tilt during the pull. With the fueling and ignition systems still connected, you can drain it in the driveway, into a catch-basin, and then drive it from there into the garage for the pull
- Chances are, that Harbor Freight hoist you bought will not be able to pull/install the engine without removing the front bumper. I bought the long version of that hoist and its still not long enough to reach.
- If you disconnect the hood supports, you can prop the hood up to almost vertical. Makes the work LOADS easier.
- I remove the AC compressor and PS pump off of the engine before I do much else. Tie-off the compressor somewhere, and the PS pump can be stashed on a shelf.
- Make sure you have the correct fuel-line disconnect tools. Metal is better than plastic, but HQ plastic ones can work if you are gentle and have a bit of finesse.
- Disconnect the O2's at the same time you drain the oil. It helps eliminate errors
- Make sure you've got something to support the transmission once it pops free of the engine. I use a piece of 2x4 and a bottle jack. I strip whatever is needed from the engine, and get it ready to pull. Then remove the mount-bolts - still keeping the engine bolted to the trans. Then I hoist up the engine and trans together until the trans is almost flush with the trans-tunnel. Then jack up the wood to where its touching the trans-pan, then unbolt the torque converter and bellhousing bolts. Doing it this way ensures that the trans will be pre-set to accept the engine on re-install. It saves you from dicking around with the load-leveler too much.
- On that load-leveler, I couldn't use it in my car. The engine is set too far back and there was no place to bolt it to on the backside. It was the old hook-and-chain method for me
 
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#12 ·
This turned out to be a great 'how to pull your engine thread' :)
I've done it both ways, when I was pressed for time to do a performance build once while my wife was on the other end of the country for a week....I kept the engine in, did cam, heads, intake, exhaust. Had help from a couple of buddies and did it in a weekend pretty much. Good info here. When my wife got back, let's just say she was 'speechless' when she heard the car start up >:)
 
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