Build or Buy? - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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Build or Buy?

I'm on the fence, and looking for some input.

The way I see it I have three options.
  1. Build the spare Block I have
  2. Buy a short Block (Ellwein ERE-383)
  3. Use my stock bottom end that is in the car (215,000 Mi.)

I'm $200 into the spare block.

I have a set of Stock Aluminum Heads.

I have a 58mm TPIS TB

I have a spare manifold

I have Gen2 Tri-Y's on the way

Car has 3.73's with Eaton Posi, 3200 Yank Converter, Cat Back, and RAISS CAI

On my list, is to freshen the fueling system.


1996 DCM Impala SS
14.38 @ 93.48
Build Date: 1996-12-05
ISSCA # 2360
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 01:49 PM
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ERE 383 !!! All the way. Karl is the MAN!
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 01:50 PM
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I second the emotion!

Hil Was Here...

Quote:
Originally Posted by ProTools4 View Post
at some point a large overlap high compression motor with long tubes is going to shake & make so much sound that all metal spherical suspension noise transfer is another musician in the symphony of "Hot Muscle Cars Rule" in B minor
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barbarossa View Post
I'm on the fence, and looking for some input.

The way I see it I have three options.
  1. Build the spare Block I have
  2. Buy a short Block (Ellwein ERE-383)
  3. Use my stock bottom end that is in the car (215,000 Mi.)
Not only could you buy a ERE-383.....but you can buy MY ERE-383.

Rebuilt after about 31K miles due to a blown head gasket.

It's ready for delivery......NOW!


You can PM me if interested.

KW

1996 BBB SS, 398ci Solid Roller LT4


1995 DCM SS, LS3 w/Custom CAI, V-max 90mm TB, TSP CNC Ported Heads, Lingenfelter GT1-1 cam, Headman Mid-length Headers, 2 1/2" cat-back, 3200 Circle-D TC, 3.42 gears (for now) -- 450 HP/400 TQ To The Wheels


2014 Chevy SS; 429ci LS3 -- 508HP, 455TQ @ the wheels....After Break-in Dyno & Track Results Pending

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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Bear with me as it takes me a while to rationalize things. Mean no disrespect to K.E.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Wail View Post
ERE 383 !!! All the way. Karl is the MAN!
$6,500 is a bunch of money though.

I have a local solution, and I'm wondering where the value is at.

Karl's stuff is well proven, so there is a trade off having it done locally (local is unknown with LT1's, but builds lots of SBC's).

I figure:
Crankshaft is $1k
Rods: ~ $700
Pistons: ~ $700
Rings: ~ $150
ATI SuperDamper - $390
Stef's oil pan - $400
Titan gerotor oil pump - $40

Lets call it ~$3,800 in parts. Plus machine work ($2,000 ?).

You get close to that $6,500 pretty quickly.

You look at what the guys with a stock bottom end are running, and I'm thinking I can move the cost of the short block down the road a few years, until I frag this motor.

I'm hoping for a car that runs 11.90 - 12.20's and be on the quicker end of the (SPORTSMAN: 12.00 to 19.99) Category.


1996 DCM Impala SS
14.38 @ 93.48
Build Date: 1996-12-05
ISSCA # 2360
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barbarossa View Post
Bear with me as it takes me a while to rationalize things. Mean no disrespect to K.E.



$6,500 is a bunch of money though.

I have a local solution, and I'm wondering where the value is at.

Karl's stuff is well proven, so there is a trade off having it done locally (local is unknown with LT1's, but builds lots of SBC's).

I figure:
Crankshaft is $1k
Rods: ~ $700
Pistons: ~ $700
Rings: ~ $150
ATI SuperDamper - $390
Stef's oil pan - $400
Titan gerotor oil pump - $40

Lets call it ~$3,800 in parts. Plus machine work ($2,000 ?).

You get close to that $6,500 pretty quickly.

You look at what the guys with a stock bottom end are running, and I'm thinking I can move the cost of the short block down the road a few years, until I frag this motor.

I'm hoping for a car that runs 11.90 - 12.20's and be on the quicker end of the (SPORTSMAN: 12.00 to 19.99) Category.
I went through this same predicament back in 06. Original motor ended up with a spunt bearing after cam swap, decided it was time for a "built" motor, found a used 355 with cast scat crank, eagle pistons, and forged pistons. Threw 2k down on it, then got some ported aluminum heads and stuff. 2,000 miles later that built 355 snapped the ****ty scat crank and took out the block as well. Even though 2k isn't really considered a lot for a budget built shortblock, it's more than i like to blow up. So since then i just bought stock shortblocks (some were longblocks but i just used the shortblock), had 4 of em, spent anywhere from 300-500 on them
and spun them all close to 7k rpm. Some lasted longer than others. I personally don't mind swapping motors out, i can do it in a day and each time i get faster at it.
My current motor is a 357 that i bought for 700, sold off extra parts to actually make money back, so it was a budget built freebie.

1995 DCM Caprice. T56/4.56. Stock LQ9 with bolt ons

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barbarossa View Post
Bear with me as it takes me a while to rationalize things. Mean no disrespect to K.E.

$6,500 is a bunch of money though.

I have a local solution, and I'm wondering where the value is at.

Karl's stuff is well proven, so there is a trade off having it done locally (local is unknown with LT1's, but builds lots of SBC's).
Karl, there is no substitute except for Mike Harris.

Do it right the first time.

Bought a built 383 for what I could afford. Spun a rod cap bearing. Had Karl rebuild it. When Karl tore it apart he found multiple issues with the build:
multiple rod cap bearings had oil starvation damage; oil pickup fell off because of weak tack weld; a rod cap bolt was cross threaded; loose timing chain
and one of the lifters was stuck open.

So, with doing it "cheap" I ended up spending twice as much.

Think about it long and hard. Going fast is expensive. Building AND balancing your engine is not where you want to skimp.

It's not just the parts but the craftsmanship that goes into the build.

ISSCA #2305
ECIRS #222
WAIL

95 9C1:
12.32 @ 109, ESE 357, LE2 heads, LE 224/230
12.86 @ 105, Reman 355, Z28 heads, CC 502, CPT 3, Edge 3400, 4.10, PCM4Less
96 SS:
11.74 @ 117, ERE 383, LE2 heads, AI 234/242, CPT 3, Yank 3600, 3.73, PCM4Less
12.28 @ 110, Golen 383, LE2 heads, CC 503, CPT 3, Yank 3600, 3.73, PCM4Less
13.07 @ 101, Rebuilt LT1, LE2 heads, Crane 227, CPT 3, Yank 3600, 3.73, PCM4Less
14.11 @ 95, Stock LT1, Edge 3000, 3.73, PCM4Less

Last edited by Lance; 11-27-2012 at 03:44 PM.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 01:16 PM
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As for using junkyard short blocks until they die, that's fine and good if you have the tools, time, garage, lift and mad skliz like Ricky Nabby to do a swap in less then an hour.

I just do not have the time and logistics to invest in junkyard short blocks. Been there done that in a car port in the winter. Not hard but time consuming unless you have
everything you need and a solid junkyard near your house.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
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.......like Ricky Nabby......
@ "Ricky Nabby"......

KW
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lance View Post
Karl, there is no substitute except for Mike Harris.

Do it right the first time.

Bought a built 383 for what I could afford. Spun a rod cap bearing. Had Karl rebuild it. When Karl tore it apart he found multiple issues with the build:
multiple rod cap bearings had oil starvation damage; oil pickup fell off because of weak tack weld; a rod cap bolt was cross threaded; loose timing chain
and one of the lifters was stuck open.

So, with doing it "cheap" I ended up spending twice as much.

Think about it long and hard. Going fast is expensive. Building AND balancing your engine is not where you want to skimp.

It's not just the parts but the craftsmanship that goes into the build.
2nd that^^^



One NaSSty Black a.s.s car
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