Broken Exhaust Manifold Bolt - Page 2 - Chevy Impala SS Forum
 7Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-05-2017, 12:32 PM
Senior Member
 
smelonas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 462
 
I have one broken bolt in the driver side rear. I used ARP bolts on mine. No question about it, there is no substitute.

If I pull the engine one day, Ill just drill and tap it. You guys taking off the manifold are working way to hard IMO. LOL

94 RMSB 170K Sat 5 years, ran for 1 of those then remained untouched for 4. Sat because it was slapped by a deer and the owners didnt want to fix it for whatever reason.
Mods, all the free good ones.
Future? Probably pull engine, reseal it, and run it a lot more. Looking to get 250k out of it. PRAYING for 300k.
smelonas is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-05-2017, 07:24 PM
Senior Member
 
schlicky13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Iowa
Posts: 170
 
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by 96 Black View Post
And I discovered this on the passenger rear. I'm confused what the hell is going on exactly. It could be a bottomed out "too-long" bolt with the head snapped off. I picked up stud extractors to replace whatever it is.

This thing! What is this? I had the exact same, identical in every way thing sticking out from that same hole on my '94 Fleetwood. I'd known it was there since I bought the car, and I removed it when I installed the headers last fall. It does appear to have had the head broken off, but it was sticking out just as far as yours was in the pic. I assumed it was an anomaly, that someone stuck the wrong bolt in at some point and broke it, since it was sticking out so far. But when I did the headers, it was fairly clear that my manifolds had never been removed until I took them off. That is just too weird. The scrapes on mine are just from the stud extractor I used to get it out. Actually now that I think about it, maybe it originally had a spacer between it and the manifold, I found a bunch of those on some of the other manifold bolts, which would explain why it sticks out so much. Strange though, no real reason that I can think of to use a spacer back there.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20170105_190427.jpg
Views:	82
Size:	175.3 KB
ID:	153153  

Something witty.
schlicky13 is offline  
post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 05:58 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 6,301
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by schlicky13 View Post
This thing! What is this? I had the exact same, identical in every way thing sticking out from that same hole on my '94 Fleetwood. ..... maybe it originally had a spacer between it and the manifold, ...... Strange though, no real reason that I can think of to use a spacer back there.
The premise for those cast spacers is to allow lateral slip as the cast manifolds heat up and permit expansion without cracking from stress. I noticed as you that the protruding amount on mine was the same length as a spacer and realized the bolt snapped right at the head. Those spacers go on all bolts except the 2 centerboard locations each bank, though I've NEVER heard of cyl. 1 and 2 bolts breaking.

The only question I have is why spacers became a "thing" with this motor. I've seen maybe the same rough cast iron type regular washers on some motors, but certainly not the tall ones as on an LT-. I don't recall them on prior SBC and other old cars. Perhaps cheaper more crack-prone pot metal used in the manifolds? Or "improved" flow with increased lever arm thermo somethings in the oem design causing way more stress? All I know is be sure to use all those cast iron spacers per original placement, and don't over-tighten the bolts. It should have been a TSB way back when.


EDIT: Pic of said layout for ref

JackFish and schlicky13 like this.

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, SLP SS, 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds and CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear)
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: SS Bars, METCO LCAs, Koni Reds, PowerTrax No-Slip

Last edited by 96 Black; 01-06-2017 at 09:17 AM.
96 Black is offline  
 
post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 04:14 PM
Senior Member
 
schlicky13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Iowa
Posts: 170
 
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by 96 Black View Post
The premise for those cast spacers is to allow lateral slip as the cast manifolds heat up and permit expansion without cracking from stress. I noticed as you that the protruding amount on mine was the same length as a spacer and realized the bolt snapped right at the head. Those spacers go on all bolts except the 2 centerboard locations each bank, though I've NEVER heard of cyl. 1 and 2 bolts breaking.

The only question I have is why spacers became a "thing" with this motor. I've seen maybe the same rough cast iron type regular washers on some motors, but certainly not the tall ones as on an LT-. I don't recall them on prior SBC and other old cars. Perhaps cheaper more crack-prone pot metal used in the manifolds? Or "improved" flow with increased lever arm thermo somethings in the oem design causing way more stress? All I know is be sure to use all those cast iron spacers per original placement, and don't over-tighten the bolts. It should have been a TSB way back when.
Interesting. I am curious though, are you saying we should still use the spacers if we install aftermarket headers? I didn't, and the bolts that came with my headers (CIA tri-y's) weren't really long enough to keep those. I also used and modified a bunch of them to make spacers so I could retain the alternator brackets, but I found possibility suitable chrome plated replacements at a local big name hardware store so I could have everything looking pretty, just haven't switched them out yet.

Something witty.
schlicky13 is offline  
post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 05:40 PM
Senior Member
 
Toms9C1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Maine
Posts: 2,281
 
I used the inner bolt hole and used a header bolt because it had a smaller bolt head to fit.

Tom
ISSCA Member #2540
95 B4U: LT4 LE Cam 1.6 RR Eibachs 17" SS Whls K&N XPypes Mech fan delete+Gary's wiring harness RM Lthr seats Imp SS Rear Disc Eaton Posi Motive 3:73's Moser Axles Stainless brake lines NEW 4L60E/Dacco 2000
94 9C1: Eaton Posi 3:73's XPypes Stainless Brake lines
95 L99 DCM: SS Clone Vogtland springs Monroe SS shocks XPypes Front end overhaul w/Alum bushings
96 RMW Woody Black / Red guts
96 RMS

http://badass-of-ne.forumotion.com/forum.htm
Toms9C1 is offline  
post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 6,301
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by schlicky13 View Post
Interesting. I am curious though, are you saying we should still use the spacers if we install aftermarket headers? I didn't, and the bolts that came with my headers (CIA tri-y's) weren't really long enough to keep those. ....
Certainly not needed, and specifically contra-indicated. Headers are constructed of steel tube, way more flexible/malleable and less crack-prone than cast metal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Toms9C1 View Post
I used the inner bolt hole ....
As in, reinstalling the oem manifold and using the same method I did? Or, was it when putting in headers - as my understanding is most all aftermarket headers are already designed to use the inner hole.

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, SLP SS, 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds and CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear)
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: SS Bars, METCO LCAs, Koni Reds, PowerTrax No-Slip
96 Black is offline  
post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 11:42 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: northeast
Posts: 2,565
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by blazej View Post
My approach to this broken stud problem was to use dremel to file the screw out up to threads, then use helicoil system. I have tried just all the methods in the book, but I was snapping everything.
I am gonna test that method out on a test bench .

the use of the left hand drill bits I do use . many times the bolt will come out slightly then you can gab on it or hit it with the welder .
j cat is online now  
post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 04:18 PM
Senior Member
 
nhgonzo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Dirtywater,CT
Posts: 865
 
JackFish likes this.

Gonzo
Gz Custom
92 WWW? ,All Shaved WOODY,All LEDs,
96 RMW Limited stock daily driver
95 WWW stock

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3299559
http://www.youtube.com/nhgonzo Wagon on
LEDz
nhgonzo is offline  
post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 11:05 AM
Senior Member
 
Toms9C1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Maine
Posts: 2,281
 
Used the OEM Manifold. To be frank, The previous owner drilled the hole but it backed out, so I used a "header bolt I had laying around.

Tom
ISSCA Member #2540
95 B4U: LT4 LE Cam 1.6 RR Eibachs 17" SS Whls K&N XPypes Mech fan delete+Gary's wiring harness RM Lthr seats Imp SS Rear Disc Eaton Posi Motive 3:73's Moser Axles Stainless brake lines NEW 4L60E/Dacco 2000
94 9C1: Eaton Posi 3:73's XPypes Stainless Brake lines
95 L99 DCM: SS Clone Vogtland springs Monroe SS shocks XPypes Front end overhaul w/Alum bushings
96 RMW Woody Black / Red guts
96 RMS

http://badass-of-ne.forumotion.com/forum.htm
Toms9C1 is offline  
post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 10:13 PM
Member
 
wd40skater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 45
 
Nice work. I admire your due dillagence getting those broken bolts out.

I have broken bolts from the manifold. Both passenger side and drive side. Furthest bolt in the rear. It was causing a pretty serious exhaust leak. I didn't want to start welding, nor did I have the tools to try and drill them out. So my first solution was to buy a set or Borla Shorty headers. I didn't like them, sold them, and went back to the stock manifolds.

I was able to fix the exhaust leak. The drivers side was easy. I used a thick copper gasket with a nice thin layer of high temp red RTV on both sides of the gasket. I also ditched the worn out flange gasket and used high temp RTV there as well. Everything sealed up nicely on that side. I also used ARP bolts with no stock spacers on the cast iron manifold.

The passenger side was worse. It was leaking way more. The rear of the flange on the manifold was slightly bent, causing the leak. I hit it back into place with a hammer so it was straight again. I was careful. Again I used a light coat of high temp RTV on both sides on the copper gasket, and no gasket at the flange, just RTV. ARP bolts with no stock spacers.

I stuck a shop vac up the tail pipe and could no longer hear ANY exhaust leaks. Everything sealed up great. This was my low budget approach that worked well for me, having already had the ARP bolts from the Borla install, and not wanting to weld or drill, and having some RTV in my toolbox.


1996 Caprice B4U/LT1, K&N CAI, TB Bypass, Electric Fans, PCMForLess tune, Flowmaster 40's, H-Pipe, 1.6 Rockers

Last edited by wd40skater; 02-12-2017 at 11:21 PM.
wd40skater is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Chevy Impala SS Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome