Flowtech After Burner Headers - Page 3 - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #21 of 266 (permalink) Old 03-07-2010, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QuistburgundySS View Post
Do you think that ceramic coated AB's will still melt plug wires?

Just to be safe and considering the pain in the ass factor of changing wire...i would put the protective boot/sleeves on the wires anyway....

'95 9c1 Caprice SS: paid $1200 143K UNDERGOING ENGINE REBUILD! Aerochambers, X-pipe, afterburners, bonnies, ss grille, monroe ss, 3 inch ex tips, indy 500 tires, TB bypass, Airfoil, Performance Trans built by MYSELF!
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post #22 of 266 (permalink) Old 03-07-2010, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QuistburgundySS View Post
Do you think that ceramic coated AB's will still melt plug wires?
I'm not sure, they are very close to the tubes though. I would still. Put some sleeves on there , 15 bucks for two

09 G8 GT, lets just say modded
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post #23 of 266 (permalink) Old 03-07-2010, 03:53 PM
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Hey, Sin....the hell with the tint on that other car...get busy on this header install!! Inquiring minds want to KNOW!
The tint is removed Had to be done so I could put the interior parts back in. They were taking up garage space that I need to put wagon parts in.

Like I said before, the headers are going on along with a lot of other work. Gonna be without the wagon for a little while Swapping fenders, removing ARI system, EGR system. Installing transgo, posi, gears and other stuff. So please bare with me on this. I have started pulling stuff already and will have some pics tonight I hope.

I will be starting a new thread for it though to keep clutter at a minimum, hopefully.

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post #24 of 266 (permalink) Old 03-07-2010, 05:46 PM
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Excuse me for dipping

i been hearing installing headers on our engine isnt worth the time,HP&Torque,or money and even though i disagree to the fullest.I know installing either way would be a pain

1995 Impala SS Blk 150k mi on odometer brand new LT1 from GM@ 113K mi,Stock,blk on blk 22's kumos tires, k&n cold intake, blue vac hoses and radiator hoses,160 degree thermostat,50 series flows more to come Trust.Will do 153 mph easy on 22's
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post #25 of 266 (permalink) Old 03-07-2010, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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Dart....I should have been more specific. I meant easy to install with the ENGINE IN THE CAR....not necessarily from the bottom. My post was unclear.
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post #26 of 266 (permalink) Old 03-07-2010, 07:44 PM
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i been hearing installing headers on our engine isnt worth the time,HP&Torque,or money and even though i disagree to the fullest.I know installing either way would be a pain

If you have everything researched, set up, tools, and a plan...it shouldnt take that long......

Most repairs on our cars take longer because we run into the "unexpected" things that takes an hour job.....and turns it into 4 hours....

Example.....a simple shock swap should only take 30mins to an hour at most imo......but for me...that upper shock bolt didnt want to play fair.....making an hour job....last about 5 hours....

'95 9c1 Caprice SS: paid $1200 143K UNDERGOING ENGINE REBUILD! Aerochambers, X-pipe, afterburners, bonnies, ss grille, monroe ss, 3 inch ex tips, indy 500 tires, TB bypass, Airfoil, Performance Trans built by MYSELF!
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post #27 of 266 (permalink) Old 03-07-2010, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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OH NOOOOO, Sin! Still ANOTHER post about headers??? I started THIS post to hopefully straighten out all the confusion. Please reconsider.
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post #28 of 266 (permalink) Old 03-07-2010, 08:14 PM
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i have a set of flowtech headers not installed p and p the heads! if you look real close the headers are not true or flat take a straight edge put it on the flange where it would bolt to the head. some ports will NOT be flat i actual added weld to the ports to make true and then i took them to my local NAPA and used there belt sander and surfaced the flange true be sure not to go all the way flat bc the weldeds on the flange are the only ones that hold the tube in hope this helps. cant wait to finish!
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post #29 of 266 (permalink) Old 03-07-2010, 09:09 PM
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Definitely don't want to install the engine with the headers on. They will go in from the top with no problem. The driver side is a piece of cake. On the pass side, you will have to deal with the A/C lines and tweek the engine oil dipstick tube. Also on the pass side, the rear most flange bolt is a PITA if you use a regular header bolt (an issue on all headers). So use an allen capscrew and an allen socket on a short extention. Some have had clearance issues with the frame on the pass side also, but nothing a BFH doesn't fix. And check for welding slag around the bolt holes and grind it off where necessary. For that reason, I would do uncoated headers and make sure they fit first and then have them coated after. You will have to address plug wire clearance on both sides, which would be easier on the engine stand.

And FWIW, headers are absolutly a performance gain!

Joe Tovar
96 BBB, sewer pipe, TB bypass, BH OBDI, eaton w/4.10s, CPT Level 3, Edge 3000.
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post #30 of 266 (permalink) Old 03-07-2010, 10:31 PM
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Silver--This thread is already on post 30 and I have yet to put up pics, lol. I have the fenders off and started pulling things out of the way of the engine. Stopped for the night and will begin pulling old exhaust tomorrow afternoon.

Tank--No the flanges aren't all that great but mine look better than what others have said. That is why I bought the good/thick aluminum gaskets. They worked perfectly on the last set of cheap headers I installed.

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