Please Help identifiying ABS UNIT*PICS INSIDE* - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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Please Help identifiying ABS UNIT*PICS INSIDE*

can anyone please tell me what ABS unit i have ? its says Bosch on the unit so i dont think its the Delphi ABS VI , gotta be either Bosch system 5 or Bosch 2u abs system , also is there a special bleed procedure i need to follow to flush the brakes
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94 Impala , procharged 383, T56 conversion too many mods to list. Mark Sulimirskis old car
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 10:14 AM
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To cut down the guessing would you give us some history. Is this a 94? Why do you want to play with it?

From memory the Caprice ABS (Bosch) system has at least 3 versions.
91-93, 94-95(?) and 96.

Again from memory: normal brake work will require normal brake bleeding. If you change out the ABS pump and valve I think there is a special procedure. This is to ensure the pump/valve system is not full of air. Consult the FSM or give us enough information so we can quote from it.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z09B4U View Post
To cut down the guessing would you give us some history. Is this a 94? Why do you want to play with it?

From memory the Caprice ABS (Bosch) system has at least 3 versions.
91-93, 94-95(?) and 96.

Again from memory: normal brake work will require normal brake bleeding. If you change out the ABS pump and valve I think there is a special procedure. This is to ensure the pump/valve system is not full of air. Consult the FSM or give us enough information so we can quote from it.
sorry , forgot to add the year , its a 94 impala . I want to flush the entire system to remove the AP 600 brake fluid in it and replace it with wilwood 570 fluid , and i was reading that the ap 600 isnt compatible with anything so i want to make sure i flush the system real good

94 Impala , procharged 383, T56 conversion too many mods to list. Mark Sulimirskis old car
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 07:32 PM
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Open the bleeders, and keep filling it until the replacement fluid comes out of every cylinder/caliper.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 07:36 PM
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Chevy recommends a liter to just flush the brake system.
I took a quick look at the FSM and I think you need to find someone with a high end data scan tool. I could not find a procedure for a complete flush but if the scanner can do mode 4 for the ABS you can play with the valves and motor to move fluid through the ABS system.

I thought all DOT 3 brake fluid had to mix. Are AP 600 brake fluid and wilwood 570 fluid Type 3?

The Caprice brake components are only rated for DOT 3 fluid.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 04:28 PM
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Back Road Method

You could change fluid then make a lot of skid stops. (On gravel sand ice)
But you will not absolutely know that the valves have opened and the pump has pushed out the old fluid. As a guess you would have to do this flushing method twice as a minimum.

On the Crown Victoria you use the dealer scan tool or equivalent to run each valve with the pump to purge air and old fluid.

Maybe someone else can say where this is in the FSM.

I read that AP 600 brake fluid does not mix with DOT 3 and wilwood 570 fluid might. If wilwood 570 fluid will mix with DOT 3 you could first use DOT 3 to cheaply flush out the AP 600.

My quick reading indicated that wilwood 570 fluid is Type 3 compatible. This could lead to insurance issues if you are using it on the street where you may need DOT 3 certified.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 09:32 PM
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Why is anyone using anything other than DOT 3,or DOT 3/4 ? I'm assuming incompatible means silicone based DOT 5... Which is definitely not recommended for any street driven vehicle...

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-13-2017, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Kiehl View Post
Open the bleeders, and keep filling it until the replacement fluid comes out of every cylinder/caliper.
As per original question, the above is the right answer.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-13-2017, 02:29 PM
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You could put some universal florescent dye in it when the original fluid is nearly empty, and when it comes out of the cylinders/calipers you know you have flushed the system. You can run a couple more ounces of the new fluid just to make sure.


It does not matter which rear cylinder/caliper you do first, they are both the same distance from the master cylinder.

1991 OCC 461 (.030 over 454) BBC, 3.23 posi, flash to pass, drop spindles & springs, Impala rims, Recaros, MOMO/wood SW w/QR, custom wood shift knob, Pioneer DEH P77DH
1992 OCC now with 5.7 tbi, DEH P77DH
For a parts list, check http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...sed-parts.html

Last edited by Fred Kiehl; 05-13-2017 at 02:37 PM.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Kiehl View Post
You could put some universal florescent dye in it when the original fluid is nearly empty, and when it comes out of the cylinders/calipers you know you have flushed the system. You can run a couple more ounces of the new fluid just to make sure.


It does not matter which rear cylinder/caliper you do first, they are both the same distance from the master cylinder.

do i open all at the same time or just open both rears , then both fronts?

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