Warping Backing Plates at the track :( - Chevy Impala SS Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-03-2017, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Chicagoareabmx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bethlehem,PA
Posts: 1,204
 
Send a message via AIM to Chicagoareabmx
Warping Backing Plates at the track :(

Hey all,

Overall I've been very happy with my stock brake caliper/rotor setup on the track with a little help from good ATE fluid, brake ducts, and Carbotech XP series pads, HOWEVER, I keep warping the inboard backing plates on the front pads like crazy lately.

Obviously the whole setup isn't designed for hauling a 3900lb car/driver from 125 to 55 lap after lap, but I rarely get brake fade, and have never boiled fluid. But with lots of heat and lots of pressure pushing the plates from just the center, it's not terribly surprising.

I'm hoping you guys might have some ideas for cost effective fixes to prevent backing plate warpage until I can do a real brake upgrade this winter. Killing a set of $165 pads every track day is getting old, especially when the edges of the pads probably have enough material for 3 more full days!

I know Wilwood makes an aluminum dual piston caliper setup for the D52 style caliper that should be a bolt on solution, and I do think the two pistons spreading the pressure more evenly against the backing plate would help prevent warpage, but I'm not crazy about the idea of alloy front calipers (quicker heat transfer/less thermal mass) possibly boiling fluid more readily. Also concerned there might be a change in pedal feel? Does anyone have experience with these calipers, or maybe better yet, a bolt on IRON GM equivalent?

I would go bigger with the whole package, but typically drive to every track event on the 15" steelies, so that's a tough sell. I know the HD12 kit would give me much more thermal mass while still fitting under the 15" wheels, but concerned it may not prevent backing plate warpage given using the same style of single piston caliper. Thoughts on this Bill/NavyLifer? Enough thermal mass boost to lower inboard pad temps enough to prevent soft backing plates?

My other ideas include possibly trying to band-aid the situation by going with a wider 9c1 or Limo caliper, and running a double thick backing plate, but that might be a stretch.

Thanks!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0099 (1).JPG
Views:	45
Size:	125.0 KB
ID:	160010   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0100 (1).JPG
Views:	44
Size:	98.1 KB
ID:	160018   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0104.JPG
Views:	41
Size:	59.2 KB
ID:	160026   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0105 (1).JPG
Views:	35
Size:	66.3 KB
ID:	160034  

Brian
95 LT1/T56 9C1
Gettin REAL FUN!

Road Course Vids:
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPWe...UPeQEew/videos
Chicagoareabmx is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-03-2017, 01:41 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Moorpark, CA
Posts: 7,150
 
Garage
From what I have read the Willwood 2 piston D52 has a different brake line fitting than stock. IDK if you use a "adapter"...or need different lines....which Wilwood may offer

\'96 BBB 383/T-56
BALLSS is offline  
post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-03-2017, 03:25 PM
Senior Member
 
Z09B4U's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Canada
Posts: 261
 
Quote:
$165 pads every track day is getting old
Quote:
My other ideas include possibly trying to band-aid the situation by going with a wider 9c1 or Limo caliper, and running a double thick backing plate, but that might be a stretch.
Try cheap rotors with more cooling. Less heat at the rotor less heat at the pad.

FYI: Astro Brake Rotor Upgrade

Z09B4U
Z09B4U is offline  
 
post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-03-2017, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Chicagoareabmx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bethlehem,PA
Posts: 1,204
 
Send a message via AIM to Chicagoareabmx
Quote:
Originally Posted by BALLSS View Post
From what I have read the Willwood 2 piston D52 has a different brake line fitting than stock. IDK if you use a "adapter"...or need different lines....which Wilwood may offer
Good mention! I do remember reading that. The more I think about running an aluminum caliper, the more I think I might run into new problems. I've also gotten the rear aluminum calipers hot enough to get soft and have the outer ears that retain the outboard pad "open up" causing angled pad wear, and the front sees even higher temps on the regular.

Brian
95 LT1/T56 9C1
Gettin REAL FUN!

Road Course Vids:
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPWe...UPeQEew/videos
Chicagoareabmx is offline  
post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-03-2017, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Chicagoareabmx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bethlehem,PA
Posts: 1,204
 
Send a message via AIM to Chicagoareabmx
Quote:
Originally Posted by Z09B4U View Post
Try cheap rotors with more cooling. Less heat at the rotor less heat at the pad.

FYI: Astro Brake Rotor Upgrade
Did you mean cheap rotors or cheap pads?

Been running cheapish Centric Premium rotors up front. Last set lasted about 4 years before cracking all the way through. How do you figure a cheaper rotor would run cooler? I'll re-visit the Astro rotor thread, but last time I went through it, I remember thinking it was a little more custom machining than I wanted to get involved with.

If you meant cheaper pads, that's out the window. I like being able to stop quickly when needed, and cheap pads melt down VERY quickly at track temps.

Brian
95 LT1/T56 9C1
Gettin REAL FUN!

Road Course Vids:
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPWe...UPeQEew/videos
Chicagoareabmx is offline  
post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-03-2017, 05:58 PM
Senior Member
 
Z09B4U's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Canada
Posts: 261
 
Astro rotors cool better than Caprice rotors.
Brakes stop by friction. This is heat, loss of pad material, or loss of rotor material.
Since you are not warping your rotors or wearing your pads the pads are getting too hot.
I was thinking if the rotors were cooler the pads might run cooler too.
I have not priced out the options but if a caliper locks up and takes out the rotor the Asto system might be cheaper to replace. When I look at new cars I look at common replacement part costs. I try to stay away from the ones that have high labor/parts costs.

Z09B4U
Z09B4U is offline  
post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-03-2017, 06:31 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: DFWTexas
Posts: 1,352
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BALLSS View Post
From what I have read the Willwood 2 piston D52 has a different brake line fitting than stock. IDK if you use a "adapter"...or need different lines....which Wilwood may offer
I run the 2 piston Willwood calipers front and back. The banjo bolt is a different size and all I did was go to the Chevy dealership and get the right size.. Other than that I still used my aftermarket brake hoses

BH tuning, Transgo shift kit, Eaton posi W/ 3:73 gears, EDGE 9.5" 3000 stall , BMR rear lower control arms. Hotchkis springs, CIA trans crossmember; 1.6 Pro magmuim RR; CIA budget headers w/ high flow cats; 2 1/2" cat back with X pipe; chrome dual cone CAI, 52mm throttle body, 30lb SVO injectors, Wilwood brake calipers, Power Stop drilled and slotted brake rotors, Bilstein shocks. Gary's 2 relay headlight harness. Gary's battery relocation harness

Last edited by my95ss; 06-03-2017 at 06:33 PM. Reason: add to
my95ss is offline  
post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-04-2017, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Chicagoareabmx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bethlehem,PA
Posts: 1,204
 
Send a message via AIM to Chicagoareabmx
Quote:
Originally Posted by Z09B4U View Post
Astro rotors cool better than Caprice rotors.
Brakes stop by friction. This is heat, loss of pad material, or loss of rotor material.
Since you are not warping your rotors or wearing your pads the pads are getting too hot.
I was thinking if the rotors were cooler the pads might run cooler too.
I have not priced out the options but if a caliper locks up and takes out the rotor the referral system might be cheaper to replace. When I look at new cars I look at common replacement part costs. I try to stay away from the ones that have high labor/parts costs.
Good referral on the Astro rotor conversion. After re-reading, it doesn't seem to be terribly labor intensive, especially if I can find a buddy with a lathe. I'm going to dig into parts availability and see what I come up with.

Quote:
Originally Posted by my95ss View Post
I run the 2 piston Willwood calipers front and back. The banjo bolt is a different size and all I did was go to the Chevy dealership and get the right size.. Other than that I still used my aftermarket brake hoses
Cool! Definitely good to know. How long have you had them on the car? Happy with them?

Brian
95 LT1/T56 9C1
Gettin REAL FUN!

Road Course Vids:
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPWe...UPeQEew/videos
Chicagoareabmx is offline  
post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-04-2017, 11:54 AM
Senior Member
 
Z09B4U's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Canada
Posts: 261
 
The good part of the Astro system is parts availability when you are out of town.
It does make your track wider which may limit tire choice.
You do want to start with a good set of Caprice rotors as you do not want to repeat the lathe work.

Z09B4U
Z09B4U is offline  
post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-04-2017, 01:12 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: DFWTexas
Posts: 1,352
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chicagoareabmx View Post



Cool! Definitely good to know. How long have you had them on the car? Happy with them?

I have had them almost 2 years, but only about 2500 miles and I love them

BH tuning, Transgo shift kit, Eaton posi W/ 3:73 gears, EDGE 9.5" 3000 stall , BMR rear lower control arms. Hotchkis springs, CIA trans crossmember; 1.6 Pro magmuim RR; CIA budget headers w/ high flow cats; 2 1/2" cat back with X pipe; chrome dual cone CAI, 52mm throttle body, 30lb SVO injectors, Wilwood brake calipers, Power Stop drilled and slotted brake rotors, Bilstein shocks. Gary's 2 relay headlight harness. Gary's battery relocation harness
my95ss is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Chevy Impala SS Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome