Total brake fluid flush? - Chevy Impala SS Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-23-2010, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Delaware, OH, USA
Posts: 894
 
Total brake fluid flush?

So, I know people have posted about "flushing" the fluid but I still have questions. Maybe I'm just being overly-picky (it's OK to tell me if so).

Anyway, I don't think a flush has ever been done. EVER. I've added maybe a pint's worth in the 12 years I've owned the car.

I want to do a full flush and then put the SS-lines (bought them 3 years ago with SS Brakes front kit!) on all around. I'm going to replace my rear calipers too since the pistons are sticking (also factory installed!). So I want to make sure the fluid is as clean as I can get it.

So, I'm thinking of the following.

New fluid in a pressure tank (see: http://www.jegs.com/i/Motive+Product...00101/10002/-1) I bought from Jegs back when I got the brake kit. I was told that anything below 10psi is OK. The tanks hose attaches directly to the reservoir "intake" holes. That way I don't have to worry about checking the level or pump the brake.

So, I connect the tank, push the brake pedal half-way and block it. Then I open the front-left bleeder till clear. Next front-right, then back-left, then back-right. When all is clear, I'm done.

I was told using the pressure tank will make sure all the fluid in the master cylinder is replaced.

Then when all that's done, I replace the factory lines with the new SS lines (5-piece), and at the same time install the calipers, etc. and bleed the air out.

So, am I being too finicky?

94-BBB/159k, metco uppers/lowers, SSBC dual-piston front calipers, SS rotors, SRI, Ecsta ASX, pcmforless, 160 thermo, otherwise stock and still managing 248hp/300tq at rear wheels.
tlynch is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-23-2010, 11:47 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Benton, Arkansas
Posts: 207
 
Only issue you may have is getting the Motive Master Cylinder Cap to properly seal on the B-Body - if you have one with the black plastic rectangle caps it will not seal adaquately. You can go to Motive directly and purchase a steel one that will work properly on the B-Body or on a Grand National. I have one and it works OK. Kind of a PITA to get on but once secure it works fine. I have been thinking about making one out of an old factory cap but have not gotten around to it.

One other recomendation: I seldom see this done but I have been doing it for a couple tears now - wrap teflon tape around the threads of your bleeder screws (Do not interfere with the seat portion of the screw just the threads) 2-3 wraps.

This provides a good seal so you to use a suction tool if you would like to draw fluid through the system and also helps prevents air from going in past the threads when cracking the bleeders to pressure bleed.

Good luck.

Toddsss@aol.com

Todd Stranczek - Arkansas - ISSCA 1996 BBB..........
Todd Stranczek is offline  
post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-24-2010, 12:24 AM
Senior Member
 
ghetto wagon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Ghetto Garage
Posts: 10,895
 
I sucked out all the old fluid in the master, Wiped all the black gunk out of the master, Refilled with new stuff, Put the cap on. Went around and cracked the bleeders, Let some fluid run out for a few mins. Closed the bleeders, then Bled the brakes 100000 times untill it was clean. Someone pushed the pedal, I cracked the bleeder... Refill the master when its half way empty.. IF you run the masters fluid level too low you will be bench bleeding the master....

Screw the whole power flush bleed thing. It costs too much IMHO.. Unless you live alone and have no friends/ Family with working legs. No pun intended

All I had to buy is 1/4 inch ID clear tube + 2 liters of brake fluid (used ATE type 200) My old luid looked like motor oil. The car stops ALOT better now.

Member of Baby wheels inc. 17'' + 15's respectfully.


Last edited by ghetto wagon; 02-24-2010 at 12:29 AM.
ghetto wagon is offline  
post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-24-2010, 01:03 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Delaware, OH, USA
Posts: 894
 
Excepting I already have the pressure bleeder tank and I don't want to do the "push the brake pedal a bazillion times" (done that for too many years on other cars).

BTW: The part you wiped clean isn't the master cylinder. It's only the reservoir.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ghetto wagon View Post
I sucked out all the old fluid in the master, Wiped all the black gunk out of the master, Refilled with new stuff, Put the cap on. Went around and cracked the bleeders, Let some fluid run out for a few mins. Closed the bleeders, then Bled the brakes 100000 times untill it was clean. Someone pushed the pedal, I cracked the bleeder... Refill the master when its half way empty.. IF you run the masters fluid level too low you will be bench bleeding the master....

Screw the whole power flush bleed thing. It costs too much IMHO.. Unless you live alone and have no friends/ Family with working legs. No pun intended

All I had to buy is 1/4 inch ID clear tube + 2 liters of brake fluid (used ATE type 200) My old luid looked like motor oil. The car stops ALOT better now.

94-BBB/159k, metco uppers/lowers, SSBC dual-piston front calipers, SS rotors, SRI, Ecsta ASX, pcmforless, 160 thermo, otherwise stock and still managing 248hp/300tq at rear wheels.
tlynch is offline  
post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-24-2010, 11:21 PM
Senior Member
 
ghetto wagon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Ghetto Garage
Posts: 10,895
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlynch View Post
Excepting I already have the pressure bleeder tank and I don't want to do the "push the brake pedal a bazillion times" (done that for too many years on other cars).

BTW: The part you wiped clean isn't the master cylinder. It's only the reservoir.
Its on the master cylinder isnt it... You got the idea. In the old days it was all one piece. I would clean around the two recesses where the fluid flows into the master as well w/ a q tip.. Sludge forms around there.

If you want a pressure bleed, Get a junkyard cap, Drill holes in it and the rubber diaphram. Put some right sized brass fittings in it, Strap it down as tight as possible with a bungie or a strap of you want to go crazy..... Parts stores sell the right cap, help section/dorman, they cost $10+.

Member of Baby wheels inc. 17'' + 15's respectfully.


Last edited by ghetto wagon; 02-24-2010 at 11:29 PM.
ghetto wagon is offline  
post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-24-2010, 11:35 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 6
 
yeah G wagon has the right idea. Power bleeding is more of a PITA then its worth since u need the cap and all. I would just do it the old way but that is me and I don't have a power bleeder already. What is the difference really..... a little more time. I could see if there is no one to help you

You need to make a cap or buy one to make your "kit"work properly. So pony up the cash or get off your lazy azz and make one or .... do it the old way.

2 Old School Chevys
'56 Willys Wagon

Last edited by The Grinch; 02-24-2010 at 11:51 PM.
The Grinch is offline  
post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-25-2010, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Delaware, OH, USA
Posts: 894
 
Quit talking to my wife!! I gotta do something about that Stainless Steel Brakes dual-piston front kit sitting in my garage too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Grinch View Post
... get off your lazy azz and make one or ....

94-BBB/159k, metco uppers/lowers, SSBC dual-piston front calipers, SS rotors, SRI, Ecsta ASX, pcmforless, 160 thermo, otherwise stock and still managing 248hp/300tq at rear wheels.
tlynch is offline  
post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-25-2010, 11:04 AM
Sophomore Member
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 8,089
 
Send a message via AIM to sherlock9c1
My two B-bodies gravity-bleed very very nicely. I just jacked the car up, put tubes on all the bleeders into glass jars, cracked all the bleeder screws wide open, and just kept pouring new fluid in the reservoir until clear fluid came out all of the brakes. I didn't mess with any of that pedal pushing and my brakes are very firm.

"The unexamined life is not worth living." - Socrates
sherlock9c1 is offline  
post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-25-2010, 03:38 PM
Senior Member
 
4DoorSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Beautiful Chester County, PA
Posts: 6,680
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd Stranczek View Post
Only issue you may have is getting the Motive Master Cylinder Cap to properly seal on the B-Body - if you have one with the black plastic rectangle caps it will not seal adaquately. You can go to Motive directly and purchase a steel one that will work properly on the B-Body or on a Grand National. I have one and it works OK. Kind of a PITA to get on but once secure it works fine. I have been thinking about making one out of an old factory cap but have not gotten around to it.

One other recomendation: I seldom see this done but I have been doing it for a couple tears now - wrap teflon tape around the threads of your bleeder screws (Do not interfere with the seat portion of the screw just the threads) 2-3 wraps.

This provides a good seal so you to use a suction tool if you would like to draw fluid through the system and also helps prevents air from going in past the threads when cracking the bleeders to pressure bleed.

Good luck.

Toddsss@aol.com

+1 on teflon tape deal. I use a MityVac pump to pull fluid down and found the same problem when the bleeder screws are cracked. It just sucks air and won't hold vacum without the tape.
4DoorSS is offline  
post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-28-2010, 10:03 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Prior Lake, MN
Posts: 242
 
Send a message via AIM to MUSCLE9C1
Smile

just pay a shop to do it, less hassle and prolly cost you less in the long run man... It takes me prolly 10 min. to flush the entire brake system.. with the right tools its just worth it to pay someone else.. just my opinion a little late i geuss

95 9C1 mostly stock, standard mods..
MUSCLE9C1 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Chevy Impala SS Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome