need a steering box - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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need a steering box

I need some help-----probably a lot of help. I need a new steering box and need help in being pointed in the right direction on where to get one. I have spent literally hours searching and reading and what one person says is good the next says its junk. I have inspected my cars steering linkage and have concluded that the problem is in the steering box. I have almost 2" of slop in the steering wheel. I previously in 2007 replaced it all except the steering box, but it only has about 15000 miles on it. The steering linkage has always been well maintained and is still very tight and that helps me conclude that its in my original steering box. So someone please help me out

BH tuning, Transgo shift kit, Eaton posi W/ 3:73 gears, EDGE 9.5" 3000 stall , BMR rear lower control arms. Hotchkis springs, CIA trans crossmember; 1.6 Pro magmuim RR; CIA budget headers w/ high flow cats; 2 1/2" cat back with X pipe; chrome dual cone CAI, 52mm throttle body, 30lb SVO injectors, Wilwood brake calipers, Power Stop drilled and slotted brake rotors, Bilstein shocks. Gary's 2 relay headlight harness. Gary's battery relocation harness
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 04:17 PM
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contact these guys

Lee Power Steering | Santa Clarita, CA

\'96 BBB 383/T-56
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 07:06 PM
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With only 15K miles on it, you should be able to adjust the box, and have it work properly. The FSM has instructions for doing it. The only special tools you need are an lb. inch torque wrench, a socket that fits the end of the input shaft, and a spanner. It is easiest remove it from the car, and do on the bench.


The one part they do not tell you about in the FSM is that you must set the end play of the input shaft by bringing it up to center in a clockwise direction. By doing so, you pull the shaft into the box until it bottoms, and then tightening the plate according to the instructions. If you turn it counter clockwise, you will set the shaft against the adjuster, and it will pull into the box after tightening, and be loose again.


You probably do not have to replace the box, and the cost of adjusting it yourself is only your time, and any tools you need.


You do not have to remove the Pittman arm from the box to adjust the play. I posted the instructions a few years ago. The FSM instructions should be located on page 3B1-8 and 9.

1991 OCC 461 (.030 over 454) BBC, 3.23 posi, flash to pass, drop spindles & springs, custom fender skirts, Impala rims, Recaros, Blazer console, MOMO/wood SW w/QR, custom wood shift knob, Pioneer DEH P77DH
1992 OCC now with 5.7 tbi, DEH P77DH
For a parts list, check http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...1#post11691762
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 04:15 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys I will look into your suggestions

BH tuning, Transgo shift kit, Eaton posi W/ 3:73 gears, EDGE 9.5" 3000 stall , BMR rear lower control arms. Hotchkis springs, CIA trans crossmember; 1.6 Pro magmuim RR; CIA budget headers w/ high flow cats; 2 1/2" cat back with X pipe; chrome dual cone CAI, 52mm throttle body, 30lb SVO injectors, Wilwood brake calipers, Power Stop drilled and slotted brake rotors, Bilstein shocks. Gary's 2 relay headlight harness. Gary's battery relocation harness
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my95ss View Post
Thanks guys I will look into your suggestions
15K miles and the steering box is worn IMO no way ............

the idler arm is most likely the problem . have a shop check out the front end components.

since you ask this question I would not mess with the steering box screw .

on my 96 Impala in 1996 I replaced the idler arm with the HD moog replacement . that fixed my problem. MOOG today perhaps not as good as 20 yrs ago ............

1996 dealership said that steering slop is normal .
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 08:05 AM
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It is never recommended to adjust only the screw on the top of the steering box. You must go through the whole procedure, first tightening the end play of the input worm gear shaft, before touching the over-center sector adjustment. The steering wheel may have a little play in it, but 1/2 inch is about the maximum I would accept.
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1991 OCC 461 (.030 over 454) BBC, 3.23 posi, flash to pass, drop spindles & springs, custom fender skirts, Impala rims, Recaros, Blazer console, MOMO/wood SW w/QR, custom wood shift knob, Pioneer DEH P77DH
1992 OCC now with 5.7 tbi, DEH P77DH
For a parts list, check http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...1#post11691762
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 12:15 PM
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the OP said the steering box is original to the car....if I understand his post

He has 15k mi on the other suspension parts

\'96 BBB 383/T-56
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 04:27 PM
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I know you said "everything" was replaced before. Did that also include the intermediate shaft? If not, the stock units can really cause a lot of play in the wheel. Consider a Jeep Shaft as a replacement.

Also, what brand hard parts did you use when last replacing items? Moog and Proforged are top notch....most stuff sold on eBay or parts stores is not what I would recommend due to poor quality.

================================================== =============


'95 Caprice SS conversion - Bonny Buckets - 96 Column, Shifter and Console - 3.73 Gear and Herter tune - Z/28 Cluster - Blazer OH Console - Green/Pink bushings - Chromed Impala Wheels - Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks - Corvette Engine Dress - the list goes on and still more to do...it never ends.

Last edited by 4DoorSS; 04-17-2017 at 04:29 PM.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BALLSS View Post
the OP said the steering box is original to the car....if I understand his post

He has 15k mi on the other suspension parts
Yes you are right BALLSS. I can see how others read it the other way---so sorry.

Anyway I contacted Lees Power steering today and it looks like they will getting my buisness in the near future

BH tuning, Transgo shift kit, Eaton posi W/ 3:73 gears, EDGE 9.5" 3000 stall , BMR rear lower control arms. Hotchkis springs, CIA trans crossmember; 1.6 Pro magmuim RR; CIA budget headers w/ high flow cats; 2 1/2" cat back with X pipe; chrome dual cone CAI, 52mm throttle body, 30lb SVO injectors, Wilwood brake calipers, Power Stop drilled and slotted brake rotors, Bilstein shocks. Gary's 2 relay headlight harness. Gary's battery relocation harness
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4DoorSS View Post
I know you said "everything" was replaced before. Did that also include the intermediate shaft? If not, the stock units can really cause a lot of play in the wheel. Consider a Jeep Shaft as a replacement.

Also, what brand hard parts did you use when last replacing items? Moog and Proforged are top notch....most stuff sold on eBay or parts stores is not what I would recommend due to poor quality.

I put a jeep shaft on last summer and since I rarely drive my car and have only put 15000 miles on it in the last 12 years, everything else checked out okay. I bought my steering component from Rustic Racing and installed it in 2005. I replaced everything and I mean everything, all ball joints, tire rods, bushings. Including sway bar bushings and end links last summer also. I am pretty sure like 99% that my weak point now is the steering box

BH tuning, Transgo shift kit, Eaton posi W/ 3:73 gears, EDGE 9.5" 3000 stall , BMR rear lower control arms. Hotchkis springs, CIA trans crossmember; 1.6 Pro magmuim RR; CIA budget headers w/ high flow cats; 2 1/2" cat back with X pipe; chrome dual cone CAI, 52mm throttle body, 30lb SVO injectors, Wilwood brake calipers, Power Stop drilled and slotted brake rotors, Bilstein shocks. Gary's 2 relay headlight harness. Gary's battery relocation harness
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