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Cleaning intake

4K views 31 replies 11 participants last post by  TGO 
#1 ·
So I've developed a leak at the rear of the intake again. I guess I should have used ultra copper rtv or something.

Anyway, it's ok because I want to paint the manifold anyway.

So my question is cleaning it in preparation for paint. I found this thread:

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/2-engine-performance/1295913-intake-manifold-coating-2.html

Where in posts 11&12 it is said to remove the tray and manifold plugs under the intake before cleaning/power washing. Ok fine, but, what is the torque spec for the bolts that hold the tray on ? Should I put loctite on them? I've searched and searched and found nothing. I'd really rather not mess with them then remove and reinstall them improperly and have one come lose and start bouncing around in the engine!

Also, I know to put silicone thread sealant on some of the intake bolts but is that good enough to keep them torqued tight? I want to use loctite on the ones that don't require sealant but is it a good idea for the ones that do to put the silicone on the tip where it goes in to the head and then loctite above that to hold it tight or is the sealant enough? Or just use loctite for all?
 
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#2 ·
My $.02 when I did have intake manifold off was I just used a can of "intake cleaner" and sprayed inside and under the manifold and use air compressor to dry off. Didn't remove the metal tray or plugs. If you chose to do that you could use blue lock tite on those plugs.....

The outside is what you want real clean to paint.

installing the manifold

scrape all residue from intake, heads & block. Wipe 2-3 times with acetone

Use Fel Pro "printle" type intake gasket

Use Permatex Black "ultra" RTV on front & rear china walls running a 3/16" thick bead evenly across engine block and about 1/2" up onto head

Place intake straight down on motor. Do not slide front or back...if you do start over, clean, apply new rtv. Good idea to do a dry test fit before putting on RTV. You can use some form of dowel, threaded stud on one side of the intake front & back as "guide" studs when placing the intake. Put in finger tight a few manifold bolts and remove the dummy studs

Use thread "sealer" (usually white) on intake bolts NO loc Tite

Tq bolts per FSM order and steps.

DO NOT START CAR FOR 24 HRS AFTER INTAKE INSTALL

Also the intake bolts are different so on removal get a piece of cardboard and punch holes in it outlining the intake to hold them so you can replace them where they go
 
#3 ·
Cleaning for paint is my main question.

I've been thinking about maybe just taking the whole damn intake somewhere with a parts cleaner/washer and just let them do it.

I have no idea how the intake runners look inside. Last time I had it off the car they looked fine...but that was a few years ago now.
 
#4 ·
My take would be to remove the tray and use loctite on the bolts when installing. Torque spec and sequence you'll need to hunt for or take the recommendation of an experienced mechanic/machinist. Reason being that the EGR conduits do accumulate severe carbon deposits and you want to address this after having taken the time to remove it. Once tray is removed, take the whole manifold to a machine shop and have it glass beaded. This will remove all carbon deposits. Then have it powder coated. I painted mine...(here, about 1/4 of the way in)...and although it's holding up well, powder coating is a far more durable alternative. As for reinstall of the manifold, fel-pro gaskets and permatex "RIGHT STUFF" are my picks for making a clean, trouble-free, permanent mate. Torque specs and sequence are critical to assuring a proper install.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I'm not having it powder coated. I can't leave my car in the street with the intake off for a week or two while it's being coated and that's just too much money anyway. Also I don't like the idea of all that sand or whatever being caught in the little crevices inside the intake. Nope.

I just wanna get it off, cleaned, painted and back on and sealed as quickly and efficiently as possible. I found a place that does parts cleaning. I'm gonna call them tomorrow and see if they will do it while I wait.

Also I'm using permatex ultra copper RTV this time.
 
#6 ·
Copper is best for exhaust heat applications. Best oil resistance is going to be the "Ultra-Black"....
 
#7 ·
Spray and scrub it with brake cleaner and a brush,
let dry then hose it off. Then put it in the dish washer
with liquid soap if your wife will let you :)

Nab
 
#14 ·
Good idea. I did my valve covers that way lol

I didn't have any luck locating a torque spec on those pan-bolts, so I just did them "good and tight" with some locktite. Do not use silicone to seal the threads, and don't use locktite on the manifold bolts. Silicone can flake off over time and now you've got little globs of hardened silicone floating around - eager to get stuck somewhere they shouldn't. There's no need for locktite on these other than to make your life harder down the road. Plus, you will be re-torquing these bolts after a few heat-cycles.

I'd suggest you use Permatex thread sealant. I've never had a leak. Proper prep of the bolts is key though. Get a wire wheel for your bench grinder and make sure the threads are clean before you install.
That was an error on my part. I have the permatex thread sealant. Everything I have, from the printo seal gaskets to the Ultra copper RTV I found recommended from threads on this site.

Actually, here's my original thread from the first time I did this back in 2013:

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...-maintenance/308778-intake-manifold-leak.html

I used Ultra Grey as per recommendation...didn't last 8000 miles lol

But if Ultra Black is what's best to use now then no problem. I just don't want to be doing this again in a couple of years.
 
#8 ·
I didn't have any luck locating a torque spec on those pan-bolts, so I just did them "good and tight" with some locktite. Do not use silicone to seal the threads, and don't use locktite on the manifold bolts. Silicone can flake off over time and now you've got little globs of hardened silicone floating around - eager to get stuck somewhere they shouldn't. There's no need for locktite on these other than to make your life harder down the road. Plus, you will be re-torquing these bolts after a few heat-cycles.

I'd suggest you use Permatex thread sealant. I've never had a leak. Proper prep of the bolts is key though. Get a wire wheel for your bench grinder and make sure the threads are clean before you install.
 
#9 ·
[SNIP]

I'd suggest you use Permatex thread sealant. I've never had a leak. Proper prep of the bolts is key though. Get a wire wheel for your bench grinder and make sure the threads are clean before you install.
I was reading the first part of your post and was going to recommend the Teflon myself. I've been using this stuff for over 30 years, it's great stuff.

I just bought a new can a month ago, and I'd recommend this because it's got the applicator brush and you get more for your money than with the link you posted.
Permatex 80632 Thread Sealant with PTFE, 4 oz.
 
#16 ·
I see that now. But at the end of the day these are all listed as oil resistant and the copper being designed for high temp seems most logical. Even on the website it says intake manifolds and oil pans so it's just confusing. I just want it to work so whatever...I have a can of Ultra Black on the way.
 
#17 ·
I have read several people do use the "copper" rtv or "the right stuff" with good success.

I have always used the Black "ultra" (different from regular black) and never had a problem of a intake manifold or pan gasket leak with it

I have always gotten it in the tube. Didn't know it came in a "can"

I think what is important in using any rtv is the mating surfaces must be pristine clean. I wipe them with acetone a few times. Also letting the rtv cure overnight before 1st engine start up
 
#20 ·
#21 · (Edited)
Finally got a break in the rain today. Yanked off the intake and cleaned it. 1 can carb cleaner. 1 can brake cleaner. Power washed it and then put it in the dishwasher.

If I knew the dishwasher would work so well I might have skipped the power washing lol!

Just had to run it again afterwards cause it smelled like car.

Now just have to paint and reinstall. Not sure if I want to grind the fins down after painting....since they're just gonna get oxidized and discolored after which becomes another maintenance item. I thought about clear coating but I'm using satin paint. Not going for the shiny look.

Didn't see any obvious signs of a blowout...but there definitely was oil at the back of the intake. When I stuck a shop towel back there after a drive a few weeks back it came up with a little oil on it. Plus the starter is dripping...I did notice the RTV tore right where I suspected the leak to be when I pulled the intake off. Part stuck to the block, part stuck to the intake. So I'm thinking it was just a hairline break the oil just pushed through.

Oil pressure sensor is dry and oil pump drive in the valley still looks okie dokie.


EDIT: Also with the Ford fuel injectors it's impossible to get the fuel rail off with the injectors still attached and not make a mess. I fiddled with it for a good while and the decided to try and get the intake off with the fuel rail still attached...which wasn't happening and then I fiddled with it more and one of the injectors popped out of the rail and fuel everywhere! Argh!
 

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#22 ·
Had some daylight left when I got home today so I decided to paint the intake today.

3 Coats VHT satin black. It looks much better in the sunlight but overall happy with it. Similar finish to my valve covers which is what I was hoping for.

Not gonna sand down the fins on top. As they are now they look kind of like they're anodized vs. the rougher texture of the rest of the manifold. I like it. Just enough contrast.
 

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#23 ·
Id strongly suggest using the injector clips when you reassemble.
Sounds like they werent used when you first installed the ford injectors.
The injectors can go up too far in the fuel rail and cause a fire if
the clips are not used.

Nab
 
#27 · (Edited)
#28 ·
Just a thought here. I know they are more expensive, but what about the silicone plugs used for powder coating? You can put them from the underside and completely cover the entire manifold with paint.
Mark: Snowman-33
 
#30 ·
Yes I understand. I have seen where some have looked for ways to solve this in other threads. Since I have the plugs it struck me as an alternative. Some people are real sticklers about some things. It was only an option. I'm not picking you solution. In fact if I were doing it I would appreciate your idea.

Mark: Snowman-33
 
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