Check and or replace the CTS. When they go bad they can cause all kinds of issues. Do you have a scanner that you can see live data?
I will also change the sensor.
first just change the ICM/coil components.. the arcing in the old distributor will damage the ICM..
learn from my mistakes . ...
This makes sense, the coil will work fine until it's hot enough and then craps out, sends no spark and car shuts off. When trying to restart, it wont turn on because it's damaged and hot. Finally when cooled off the car will start back up. thanks.
For the OP, I'm just making sure we're all tracking the same through this with you. All those opti pics you posted are just the 20-year old distributor you took out, right? Not a whole lot to apply to progression of events beyond that, or pertaining to the suspect new Opti you have in there now except to show obvious and unusual scoring (not cracking) of the rotor, right?
If you're asking whether to ditch the crap new opti (you'll never get a refund, just another potentially crap replacement), or worth reusing the old opti with new parts then I'd seriously explore the Skip Wiess rebuilt solution for ? $100 ??
Yes, the assumption is that it's a 20 year old opti. The motor is a 355 so it has been taken off before. Yes, that scoring is unusual and kind of hard to figure out where it came from. When I first took it off the copper scoring was shinny like if it just happened. Not sure the route to go on the opti. I was asking due to me seeing a bunch of name brand opti's cap and rotors for about $150.00. Do you have a link to these rebuilt optis?
looking thru my notes on this the opti distributor connector maybe the problem and or the optical sensor ..
Thanks, let me know what you find. I've been busy with other things. I'm going to wait until this Friday to purchase some of these parts.
Let me know if there is anything else I should look for.