heater core backflush: change your Tee and restrictor - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 114 (permalink) Old 06-07-2010, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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heater core backflush: change your Tee and restrictor

With Larry gone, there's no one left to constantly remind people to change the following parts when they do their heater core back flush:

12522867 Tee, heater water bypass

10157988 (AC Delco 15-5423) Coolant Flow Control Valve (restrictor)

Both available from RMS. A member had previously provided me with an alternate part number for the restrictor, available at the local parts store, so I wouldn't have to pay the exorbitant GM price. This was before the crash and I no longer have that info.

They aren't universal, you can't make your own. They restrict flow to the heater core and are essential.

These plastic parts are often as old as the car itself, disintegrate or become brittle. I changed them on the new-to-me 94 RMW w/ 74.5k miles this weekend. The restrictor pulverized in my hand. Several members have ignored Larry's advice to save $15 and have ultimately paid for it with catastrophic failure of one of those pieces shortly after the backflush.

If anyone has a better suggestion on how to remove the restrictor and tee from the crimped metal portion of the heater flow control hoses, feel free to post it here. I cut the hose directly below the metal and reattached to the tee and restrictor with a worm gear hose clam, but that leaves very little wiggle room.

1996 Roadmaster Wagon
1995 Caprice Wagon
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post #2 of 114 (permalink) Old 06-07-2010, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by jasonlachapelle View Post

A member had previously provided me with an alternate part number for the restrictor, available at the local parts store, so I wouldn't have to pay the exorbitant GM price. This was before the crash and I no longer have that info.
I just did this service on my ride. I got the restrictor from AutoZone, so I wouldn't have to pay crazy shipping costs. Info is as follows:

Everco / Heater Control Valve P/N: 74795, $10.99

Clear Image Tri-Ys & Hi-Flow cats to CIA 2.5" X-Pipe & Spintech Mufflers, Mike Harris 4L60E, Vigilante 3,400 RPM Converter, MOOG FT end, Del-A-Lum bushings in new MOOG CTRL Arms, Eibach FT Springs, New Stock rears. Hotchkis Sway Bars & End Links, RAISS, Dynoshaft, CIA Driveshaft Loop, BMR Trailing Arms, Braided Brake Hoses, Taylor Spiro-Pro Wires, AutoMeter 2-5/8" Water Temp & Oil PSI Gauges, Impala Console. ATE Blue Brake Fluid. Skip White distributor. Newly Installed 20's on 1/1/2017
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post #3 of 114 (permalink) Old 06-07-2010, 09:29 PM
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I just went with the whole hose kit at 90k miles. Figure I won't have to do that again for YEARS , hose, restricter or Tee, all new , all done.

Taxes are not levied for the benefit of the taxed.

\'96 IMP SS BBB ,Stock, airbox is swiss cheese, K&N filter, Ultra Flows.
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post #4 of 114 (permalink) Old 06-07-2010, 10:16 PM
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I got gates hose(Have to cut to fit, A new T and a new restrictor... I did everything for $45.

The forum is dead
So is the car's battery from sitting.
Waiting for someone to jump it. Tabarnak!
Finally bought a battery, now the tires are flat spotted
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post #5 of 114 (permalink) Old 06-07-2010, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ghetto wagon View Post
I got gates hose(Have to cut to fit, A new T and a new restrictor... I did everything for $45.

Nice. It will help to flush the heater core as well.

There’s nothing as permanent as a temporary solution.

1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham 118,XXX miles.
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post #6 of 114 (permalink) Old 06-07-2010, 10:37 PM
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Good stuff. Thanks for posting.

Las Vegas Impala SS Club - SSincitySS.com

1996 Impala SS, Powerdyne Supercharger 6 psi, 3.73s, Snow Performance water/meth injection, Borla catback, F-Body MAF, Grotyohann long tube headers, Magnaflow cats, Hotchkis springs/front & rear sway bars, Bilstein shocks, Vigilante 3000 stall TC, Wilwood brakes, 20in Budnik Fontana's, and a couple of polished items

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post #7 of 114 (permalink) Old 06-07-2010, 10:53 PM
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I was installing a green silicone 9c1 hose in my car, and I wanted to replace the T and the restrictor. I didn't want to shorten the hose.

I broke off the plastic part flush at the metal cuff. I crushed the cuff in the vise, first flat, then flat the other way, then back to round. I'm not sure if that helped any, since my plastic wasn't all that brittle. Then I reached inside with needle nose pliers and tore out the plastic nipple one bit at a time. Once the plastic core-support was gone, the metal cuff just slid right off.

You have to be more careful than I was. I got impatient, and I tore a little bit of the inside of the silicone hose.

The restrictor is available at RockAuto. I already had a brass T.

1994 Roadmaster Wagon.
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post #8 of 114 (permalink) Old 07-25-2010, 11:59 PM
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do they make steel braided heater core hoses? same as above but steel braided.


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post #9 of 114 (permalink) Old 07-26-2010, 02:05 AM
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Good info!

1996 Impala SS DGGM-Blueprinted and balanced 355, forged wiseco's, Level II heads, LE cam, U2-55ed, budget headers, 2500 stall, built 4L60E,CAI,PCMforLessed, Sprint springs, Walbro 255
1996 Impala SS DGGM (moms)-chrome stockers, flows, charcoal carpet
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"Yea. You're wearing my underwear backwards. SO the hersey highway is on the front with easy access to the rear"
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post #10 of 114 (permalink) Old 07-26-2010, 01:47 PM
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I added this thread's URL to the sticky.

"The unexamined life is not worth living." - Socrates
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