you do have the hot wire kit so look at the fuel pump ground!!! Where is it? Is it clean metal? If to body do you still have body to engine ground straps, body to frame straps, engine to frame straps. Just lots of varibles you can't see by mail or internet. When I do conversions or High HP engines I run power and a ground wire back to block of engine. Also check voltage as close to fuel pump as you can it should be very close to actual battery voltage when car is running. Bad ground will lower voltage! If your voltage is not good and steady then neither will your fuel pressure, like it is now seems like an issue and if your fuel pressure is changing you'll be chasing lean conditions forever...
I'll give that a good look. I know that I took a slight grinding wheel to the metal surface where I grounded the pump but I'll have to see if it was to the body or frame. I have the innovative wiring battery cables, negative to the body, altenator support bracket, and the power to the altenator and to that fuse box under hood, and to the starter. I have the small braided ground strap at the rear of the drivers side head to the firewall. I'll see what kind of voltage I have at the pump though to be sure. Thanks for that info.
Your tuner should already know you have aftermarket injectors? Right? and your fuel pressure, Right? If he does not then nothing is right. If he knows then he should have done injector offset vs voltage for those injectors and already calculated BPC for the tune.
I would hope that he calculated that stuff. He does have that info.
Do you have a wide band O2 sensor?
Has the WOT BLM locker been installed on bin,
Couldn't tell you...
can you see your Narrow Band O2 sensor readings in the Data Log? They should be .900 up at WOT high RPM or your running lean and going to melt something... this is not a accurate test but better then nothing without a wide band.
Yes I see a reading for two O2 sensors. I'll have to check their values though.
Doing a SD (Speed Density) tune is a matter of turning off the MAF sensor and running SD to get fueling VE tables in order, then work on MAF calculations. Once I figured out how to do this tunes were much easier. But there are guys out there with way more experiance then me. So maybe it can be done?
thanks so much for all your time and help. I guess I'll tell the tuner (Solomon) to do what y'all said. I don't know if I even want him to do it since he didn't do this stuff in the first place. Maybe he isn't that sharp, not to take anything away from him. But maybe I need to move on to someone with a little more knowledge. What do you think? I have paypal if someone is willing to work with me. I just wanna get this thing dialed in so I can drive it... If there is a tuner out there that is serious about helping me please PM me. Thanks
K&N CAI, 2.5" Pypes X catback w/spintech muff's, '96 floor shift conversion, Eaton 3.73'd, 3500 Yank, built 4l60e w/Dana's custom drilled seperator plate and more, tune, Hooker headers, z28 cluster by Bob94, Ported aluminum heads with 1.6 RR's, stroked, 30lb ford svo injectors, complete suspension overhaul: Vogtlands coils f/r, Bilstein shocks f/r, all ball joints, tie rods, bushings, C3Fab extended rear upper and lower control arms, BMR f/r sway bars, black powder coated stockers