Question on rear end replacement - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
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Question on rear end replacement

I have a rear end that I pulled out a 95' for 3.73's and want to know if it'd be better to swap whole rear end (it's in better shape then mine) or just the gears. And if it's better to swap whole thing what all I need to replace on it in process

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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 09:34 AM
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More info needed
What vehicle do you have?
What vehicle did the '95 come out of?
What is better shape ? less rust? worn out axles?
if you have an Impala SS and the rear came out of an Impala SS you can swap them. It might be better in terms of downtime.
Ken
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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
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Both are ss impalas the 95 has new 3.73 and posi but I have to redo the brakes the caliper on drivers side is f**ked but overall in better shape then the factory rear end on my 96. No rust like mine as far as axles I'm not to sure

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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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I seen posts where they changed the bushings on the control arms and idk if I need to do that or not. Best differential oil to use and how much. It'll be my first rear end swap so any advice specs so on so forth would be greatly appreciated

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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96texasss View Post
Both are ss impalas the 95 has new 3.73 and posi but I have to redo the brakes the caliper on drivers side is f**ked but overall in better shape then the factory rear end on my 96. No rust like mine as far as axles I'm not to sure

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Brakes, Calipers, Brackets and E-Brake Cables could all Stay or be moved over to the other rear....they're all the same. So if you want to make it easy and not Bleed the Brakes, then you could just hang the calipers out of the way and swap the rear.

It sounds like they are pretty crappy and you'd swap them anyway with the rear. If it were me, I'd also replace the pads and clean things up along with a FULL Brake fluid Flush and bleed at all corners. Don't forget new HW for the brakes too.

With going with the steeper Gear you will see immediate performance increase from the stock 3.08 gear. A few things to keep in mind however, you should get the ECM tuned for this gear. Also, the odds are high you will get some Vibration when you get up to the 60 MPH or more on the Highway. Vibration was noticeable after my swap but not too drastic, just something I could instantly tell as the DriveShaft spins a lot faster. My fix was to replace the Stock Shaft with an Aftermarket Aluminum Shaft but you may be able to get your stock shaft high speed balanced to fix this issue.

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Originally Posted by 96texasss View Post
I seen posts where they changed the bushings on the control arms and idk if I need to do that or not. Best differential oil to use and how much. It'll be my first rear end swap so any advice specs so on so forth would be greatly appreciated

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You could also change the bushings is you want while you have the rear out. A lot would depend on their and the Control arm condition if this "needs" to be done. But maybe you "want" to swap these out with the rear out to Poly Bushings....your call really.

Stay away from the synthetic Gear Oils and stick with standard Petroleum Based Gear Oil and the Limited Slip Additive. Also be sure to get the Fel-Pro Diff Cover gasket that has the slits in the ends to allow oil to enter the axle tubes.

================================================== =============


'95 Caprice SS conversion - Bonny Buckets - 96 Column, Shifter and Console - 3.73 Gear and Herter tune - Z/28 Cluster - Blazer OH Console - Green/Pink bushings - Chromed Impala Wheels - Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks - Corvette Engine Dress - the list goes on and still more to do...it never ends.
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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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I will post some pics of bushings for a second opinion but everything is oem except for the gears on the 95 rear end and everything is stock on mine. I know I need to change the bushings on the springs and I may even need new shocks because they gave me more hell than anything else getting the 95 rear end out

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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 10:33 AM
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You would need to look at the condition of the control arm bushing on the donor rear end...if they are dried up & cracked then replace them. Swap over your rear disc calipers if those are in better shape.

Any name brand GL 5 rated 75-90 wt mineral gear oil (non synthetic) 2 qts and a 4 oz bottle of GM friction modifier (get at dealership parts counter)

\'96 BBB 383/T-56
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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 11:09 AM
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What kind of posi is in the 3.73 rear? Stock GM Auburn, Eaton posi (clutch type), or Eaton Trutrak? Those are three commonly used.
Trutrak doesn't need the additive, the other two need additive.
Ken
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
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Of that I'm not real sure is there a way that I can distinguish the difference once I take off the cover?

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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96texasss View Post
Of that I'm not real sure is there a way that I can distinguish the difference once I take off the cover?

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do a google image search of each type....you should be able to tell by pulling the cover and comparing to pic

also get the felpro diff cover gasket, it has the 2 slot holes to allow gear oil to get to the outer axle bearings

\'96 BBB 383/T-56
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