Chevy Impala SS Forum banner

Correct Radiator For 94 Caprice

6K views 22 replies 7 participants last post by  Freebird 
#1 ·
Just had my radiator go out today after 269,000 miles. I am hoping to verify which is the correct one I will need for my 94 Caprice Classic, 4.3 liter. I am looking on Rock Auto and see a Spectra Premium CU1516 and CU1517. Looking at mine I don't think I have the Engine Oil Cooler (CU1517). Am I correct on this? If I did would I have extra coolant lines coming out of the radiator on the drivers side? Is that correct? It appears the only coolant lines I see are on the passenger side. So would that mean I would need the CU1516 without Engine Oil Cooler?

The price is showing $107.79. Is that a decent price and is Spectra a good product? Everyone has always been so helpful on here. Any suggestions on what would be the best radiator to go with and any tips that I may need to know during install. Any fitment issues etc? Do I need to flush out the block as well and what is the best way to do this? I am going to go ahead and replace the thermostat while I am at it.

Any help and information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much!
 
#2 ·
I doubt you have the engine oil cooler. You would see 2 lines on the driver side as you said. I had to repair my brass and steel rad and it was not too difficult. Also, don't forget you Rock Auto discount. :wink2:
Mark: Snowman-33
 
#4 ·
Thanks gbhs72, so you had your radiator repaired instead of getting a new one? Would that be a better route to go?

I have ordered off RA twice now and I have never seen a place to put a discount code? Stupid question, is that the code you listed up above? LOL, I am guessing so?

Thanks Ocala, I had heard those are not supposed to be mixed. Mine has the Green Coolant in it now. Is there a way to flush what is in the engine block out? I bought the car with 73k miles and it now has 269k so unless the radiator and fluid was changed prior to me purchasing it 12 years ago I am sure it is all the original fluid. I would like to get all of that out. What is the best way?

Thanks for the help.
 
#3 ·
I know it's likely you know this, but just in case...

If you have orange dexcool coolant now, make sure you use that again, unless you really flush EVERYTHING COMPLETELY.

Orange and green don't mix.
 
#7 ·
Free..

The Spectra you note without the oil cooler lines on DS sound like that is the radiator for you. IDK if your 4.3 has the coolant reservoir line going to the steam line like on a LT1 or if it goes to the radiator so if the later confirm the one you select has the nipple on it if your current one does.

Given your mileage, and lack of cooling system service, you should do a complete engine flush and back flush the heater core also. There are several "how to" if you search. You should pull your knock sensor to help drain from block. Note its TQ spec on install after flush

new hose kit would be recommended

With this kind of full flush you can stay with green or go with orange if you want. Orange, Dexcool, will have a longer life
 
#13 ·
BALLSS, It's hard to tell by the pictures on RA's Site but the Spectra does not appear to have the nipple on it going from my coolant reservoir to the radiator like you suggested to verify. The side view picture looks like it is on there but the front view doesn't show it. I guess it just could be the incorrect picture they used. The APDI/PRO brand appears to have it.

So some had this option and others did not then I guess from what you are saying? What is the easiest way to verify you think? Should I call Rock Auto and ask and then how do I know they are telling me correctly? I like RA for their prices but do you think it would be better to order from a local parts store in town just in case I need to take it back for the correct one if need be? If so what is a good brand to go with and from where? Oreilly or Napa? Is RA pretty good on exchanges? Would I have to cover shipping I am guessing to exchange it for another one if I happened to get the wrong one?

Thanks for mentioning this, I always seem to end up getting the wrong part no matter how thorough I am. Appreciate the help!
 
#8 · (Edited)
Awesome, thanks for all the info. I will look it up removing the Knock Sensors. Might as well do it right if I am going to tear into it.

I am pretty sure mine has the coolant reservoir line going to the radiator if it is the line on the top passenger side going from the burp tank I believe to the top passenger side of the radiator. Definitely want to flush it all out if I can the heater core and all. Thanks so much for the help!

I am really surprised the Silla radiator is not that much more. I may look into that...
 
#11 ·
Skip the in-radiator engine oil cooler. Spectra uses 1/4" internal diameter passages, which is way too small for the full flow of your engine oil. Your filter and oil circuit will spend a lot of time in bypass with uncooled and unfiltered oil being sent straight back to the engine.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Well I got my new radiator shipped in today from Rock Auto with new Knock Sensors as well. I went to remove my old knock sensors this evening with a 22mm socket and got the drivers side out fine with a little effort. I am confused though because no coolant came out? Some should have correct? I was expecting it to come gushing out like some have said. Could it be that blocked up that something was clogging the hole? I did not have room for the car in my shop so it was outside and it was getting dark and had limited lighting so I could not tell. The sensor had some fluid on the tip I could see but that is all, just wet. I will get a better view tomorrow.

When I went to remove the passenger side Knock Sensor it is just spinning. I have a good bite on it and the head is just turning within the sensor. I have heard some say they have had issues with this as well. Should I try to get a wire welder in there and tack it back and try to remove it or what is my best option? I thought about trying a chisel to see if I could get some bite on it but I am afraid I will make it worse. Should I just let it go and forget about it? I would like to get it out and do it correctly especially since I have new knock sensors and a new radiator.

Any helpful tips would be greatly appreciated. As usual if there is going to be problems it will be with me. LOL.

Also wanted to ask how I can flush it from the top side? I am sure this is a stupid question but I had the thermostat out should I not be able to run water down the water pump hole and it flush through and out the knock sensor that is out on the drivers side or would the water pump have to be pumping or pulled off the motor for it to flow through?

Any suggestions on what my next options should be? I am truly at a loss and very frustrated.

Thanks so much!
 
#15 · (Edited)
Responded to this in the other thread you started. Should have probably just keep things in this one thread. I'll post up my response here too.....

Well I got my new radiator shipped in today from Rock Auto with new Knock Sensors as well. I went to remove my old knock sensors this evening with a 22mm socket and got the drivers side out fine with a little effort. I am confused though because no coolant came out? Some should have correct? I was expecting it to come gushing out like some have said. Could it be that blocked up that something was clogging the hole? I did not have room for the car in my shop so it was outside and it was getting dark and had limited lighting so I could not tell. The sensor had some fluid on the tip I could see but that is all, just wet. I will get a better view tomorrow.

When I went to remove the passenger side Knock Sensor it is just spinning. I have a good bite on it and the head is just turning within the sensor. I have heard some say they have had issues with this as well. Should I try to get a wire welder in there and tack it back and try to remove it or what is my best option? I thought about trying a chisel to see if I could get some bite on it but I am afraid I will make it worse. Should I just let it go and forget about it? I would like to get it out and do it correctly especially since I have new knock sensors and a new radiator.

Any helpful tips would be greatly appreciated. As usual if there is going to be problems it will be with me. LOL.

Also wanted to ask how I can flush it from the top side? I am sure this is a stupid question but I had the thermostat out should I not be able to run water down the water pump hole and it flush through and out the knock sensor that is out on the drivers side or would the water pump have to be pumping or pulled off the motor for it to flow through?

Any suggestions on what my next options should be? I am truly at a loss and very frustrated.

Thanks so much!
On th side that you got 1 KS removed, there is most likely a lot of crud blocking the hole. Take a small screwdriver or awl and poke it in the block which should open up and allow coolant to run out.

On the passenger side KS, sounds like the lid of the KS has separated from the body. It does not take much torque on the KS for this to happen. It may be real helpful to take a few extra minutes and remove the starter to gain some valuable working room in this area. Then as you suggested you could try to tack weld the lid back to the body of the KS. If you do this, try to turn the sensor in clockwise, just a little first and then back it out. At the first sign of resistance, move it back in clockwise and then back it out a little further. Your fighting with the junk in the system along with the threads in the block to remove the KS.

If all else fails, then it's time to get creative with a pair of vice grips or similar on the body of the KS. At this point, I would do whatever you can to get the old KS out of there. It is probably no good now that the lid has separated from the body. When reinstalling, there should already be sealer on the threads. DO NOT use Teflon tape or other sealant as this will affect it reading properly. Install torque on these is very low too.....I believe it's only 14' lbs.

To flush the block, yes filling from the WP Tstat housing should work. You just need to block off the heater core ports and rad port to fill the block. I assume these are all disconnected anyway for flushing. I like to block off the KS ports on the block to let the block fill and then remove the KS to allow it to FLuuuuush real good. Do this a few times til the water appears clear. Once done refill with a 50/50 mix of distilled water and coolant. A complete flush will take about 2 gallons of H2o and 2 gallons of coolant.
 
#16 ·
Thanks 4DoorSS, I appreciate the quick response. Sorry, I will have to go in and remove my other post. So will I be safe getting a wire welder up there and tack welding it back on? I don't really have a lot of rust under there being in Oklahoma but I sure do have a lot of grease. Just did not know if the wire welder would cause any issues up under there? Did not want to start a fire or blow myself up:))

I will go ahead and remove the starter to give me some extra room. I have never removed the starter on my Caprice but have on my Powerstroke Diesel several times. Is there only two bolts holding it on from what I can see?

That makes sense on blocking off the KS ports on the block and filling it up a few times and removing them to get it flushed well. I appreciate the help! Thanks again!
 
#23 · (Edited)
Okay, so since I am replacing the recovery tank I decided it best to replace the Tee Bypass Heater Hose outlet and the Heater Water Flow Control Valve. I know where the T is located where is the Water Control Valve located? I have seen where others have made their own T's with brass fittings etc. Is this safe to do? Additionally what does the Heater Water Flow Control Valve do? Is there a screen in there for filtering or is it just a reducer? The OEM Part #'s I have searched the forum and found are:

ACDELCO 15-5423-Heater Water Control Valve
GM#12522867

Are these the correct #'s and am I safe then making my own T-with the correct brass fittings and purchasing the Heater Control valve separately and if so where is the best place to find it?

Thanks for the help
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top