Well I got my new radiator shipped in today from Rock Auto with new Knock Sensors as well. I went to remove my old knock sensors this evening with a 22mm socket and got the drivers side out fine with a little effort. I am confused though because no coolant came out? Some should have correct? I was expecting it to come gushing out like some have said. Could it be that blocked up that something was clogging the hole? I did not have room for the car in my shop so it was outside and it was getting dark and had limited lighting so I could not tell. The sensor had some fluid on the tip I could see but that is all, just wet. I will get a better view tomorrow.
When I went to remove the passenger side Knock Sensor it is just spinning. I have a good bite on it and the head is just turning within the sensor. I have heard some say they have had issues with this as well. Should I try to get a wire welder in there and tack it back and try to remove it or what is my best option? I thought about trying a chisel to see if I could get some bite on it but I am afraid I will make it worse. Should I just let it go and forget about it? I would like to get it out and do it correctly especially since I have new knock sensors and a new radiator.
Any helpful tips would be greatly appreciated. As usual if there is going to be problems it will be with me. LOL.
Also wanted to ask how I can flush it from the top side? I am sure this is a stupid question but I had the thermostat out should I not be able to run water down the water pump hole and it flush through and out the knock sensor that is out on the drivers side or would the water pump have to be pumping or pulled off the motor for it to flow through?
Any suggestions on what my next options should be? I am truly at a loss and very frustrated.
Thanks so much!
On th side that you got 1 KS removed, there is most likely a lot of crud blocking the hole. Take a small screwdriver or awl and poke it in the block which should open up and allow coolant to run out.
On the passenger side KS, sounds like the lid of the KS has separated from the body. It does not take much torque on the KS for this to happen. It may be real helpful to take a few extra minutes and remove the starter to gain some valuable working room in this area. Then as you suggested you could try to tack weld the lid back to the body of the KS. If you do this, try to turn the sensor in clockwise, just a little first and then back it out. At the first sign of resistance, move it back in clockwise and then back it out a little further. Your fighting with the junk in the system along with the threads in the block to remove the KS.
If all else fails, then it's time to get creative with a pair of vice grips or similar on the body of the KS. At this point, I would do whatever you can to get the old KS out of there. It is probably no good now that the lid has separated from the body. When reinstalling, there should already be sealer on the threads. DO NOT use Teflon tape or other sealant as this will affect it reading properly. Install torque on these is very low too.....I believe it's only 14' lbs.
To flush the block, yes filling from the WP Tstat housing should work. You just need to block off the heater core ports and rad port to fill the block. I assume these are all disconnected anyway for flushing. I like to block off the KS ports on the block to let the block fill and then remove the KS to allow it to FLuuuuush real good. Do this a few times til the water appears clear. Once done refill with a 50/50 mix of distilled water and coolant. A complete flush will take about 2 gallons of H2o and 2 gallons of coolant.