Warped bulging radiator after WOT run - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-23-2016, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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Warped bulging radiator after WOT run

Anybody else have this problem? Back in 2014 I replaced my clogged warped radiator with a cheap $80 rad from Amazon. Worked great! Then after a WOT run down the street I heard my fans scraping on something. I found that my radiator had bulged and expanded upwards and downwards, pushing up on the plastic panel that holds it in. Attached are pics. It looks just like the one I replaced two years ago. I will have to go to a better radiator, maybe with a center strap to keep it sized under pressure. Maybe overpressure from the water pump or the thermostat was closed or something...
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95 9C1 LT1 210K, 30# Flow-Matched Ford Racing, TunerCat DIY reprogram, ACD wire$ and plug$, reground crank
89 9C1 L05 230K left it running at the junk yard.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-24-2016, 01:47 PM
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Wow, that's pretty bad. You touched on 1 of my concerns when I saw that...too much pressure. That was my first thought to cause something like that OR maybe it's just a cheap/broken radiator. Too much pressure though, I'd also be worrying about the Heater Core as well. Just be sure to do a Full Flush n Clean of the entire System, replace the T-Stat AND the Pressure Cap.

My other concerns are, if that Radiator Blew apart like that would be....What about the Coolers on the End Tanks? If those let go too, then you may have some much more serious problems to deal with. You don't want Coolant mixing with your Trans or Oil Coolers so I would consider Pulling that radiator as quickly as possible.

When looking for a new rad, consider the All Aluminum unit. They are not too expensive and the cheaper ones have gotten good reviews here for the most part.

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'95 Caprice SS conversion - Bonny Buckets - 96 Column, Shifter and Console - 3.73 Gear and Herter tune - Z/28 Cluster - Blazer OH Console - Green/Pink bushings - Chromed Impala Wheels - Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks - Corvette Engine Dress - the list goes on and still more to do...it never ends.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-24-2016, 02:26 PM
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-25-2016, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 4DoorSS View Post
Wow, that's pretty bad. You touched on 1 of my concerns when I saw that...too much pressure. That was my first thought to cause something like that OR maybe it's just a cheap/broken radiator. Too much pressure though, I'd also be worrying about the Heater Core as well. Just be sure to do a Full Flush n Clean of the entire System, replace the T-Stat AND the Pressure Cap.

My other concerns are, if that Radiator Blew apart like that would be....What about the Coolers on the End Tanks? If those let go too, then you may have some much more serious problems to deal with. You don't want Coolant mixing with your Trans or Oil Coolers so I would consider Pulling that radiator as quickly as possible.

When looking for a new rad, consider the All Aluminum unit. They are not too expensive and the cheaper ones have gotten good reviews here for the most part.
I didn't mention that the old radiator from before was all aluminum. Really light weight tho - like a feather. Same thing. I ordered the identical rad and will continue to replace them as needed. I do think it has to do with whether the thermostat happens to be open or closed at that moment and, yes, it could cause trouble with the heater core. I read that even a clogged heater core can cause you to blow the seal on the pump itself!

95 9C1 LT1 210K, 30# Flow-Matched Ford Racing, TunerCat DIY reprogram, ACD wire$ and plug$, reground crank
89 9C1 L05 230K left it running at the junk yard.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-26-2016, 08:03 AM
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I didn't mention that the old radiator from before was all aluminum. Really light weight tho - like a feather. Same thing. I ordered the identical rad and will continue to replace them as needed. I do think it has to do with whether the thermostat happens to be open or closed at that moment and, yes, it could cause trouble with the heater core. I read that even a clogged heater core can cause you to blow the seal on the pump itself!
IMO buy another type radiator you had 2 fail the same way over a 2 yr period must be cheap china crap.

the reasons you have read concerning this I do not agree.
these were built with 15 psi pressure caps. the caps need cleaning or replacing with the proper PSI which is 15.


if you insist on using these same radiators then I would get a 13 psi pressure cap.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-26-2016, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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IMO buy another type radiator you had 2 fail the same way over a 2 yr period must be cheap china crap.

the reasons you have read concerning this I do not agree.
these were built with 15 psi pressure caps. the caps need cleaning or replacing with the proper PSI which is 15.


if you insist on using these same radiators then I would get a 13 psi pressure cap.
Really good point. I think these caps do not always work as advertised. Thanks.

95 9C1 LT1 210K, 30# Flow-Matched Ford Racing, TunerCat DIY reprogram, ACD wire$ and plug$, reground crank
89 9C1 L05 230K left it running at the junk yard.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-26-2016, 04:54 PM
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Really good point. I think these caps do not always work as advertised. Thanks.
I had the cap hold too much pressure 3 plus years ago caused a flow problem engine ran hotter than normal. since then I clean the cap every spring it is 21 yrs old . oem 15 psi ..

also since I use 65 % antifreeze that increases the coolant boil point to about 275 deg F.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by producers_kid View Post
I didn't mention that the old radiator from before was all aluminum. Really light weight tho - like a feather. Same thing. I ordered the identical rad and will continue to replace them as needed. I do think it has to do with whether the thermostat happens to be open or closed at that moment and, yes, it could cause trouble with the heater core. I read that even a clogged heater core can cause you to blow the seal on the pump itself!
My thinking, if it was a blocked thermostat you would see the car overheat before the pressure would build to blow the rad like that. I've had quite a few tstats fail and never blew a rad like that. Could just be a faulty rad. Just stick with your standard 15 psi cap but get a new one just to be safe.

You mentioned an All Aluminum rad is what you have. Are the side tanks Aluminum too? From what you have pictured, it almost just looks like the stock center section of a stock rad. The Silla All Aluminum Rad looks different in the center section and the side tanks are Aluminum too. What brand rad do you have now. Silla also does make a rad with plastic tanks.

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/53-heating-cooling-hvac/1271481-all-aluminum-radiator-only-$65-new-2.html

================================================== =============


'95 Caprice SS conversion - Bonny Buckets - 96 Column, Shifter and Console - 3.73 Gear and Herter tune - Z/28 Cluster - Blazer OH Console - Green/Pink bushings - Chromed Impala Wheels - Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks - Corvette Engine Dress - the list goes on and still more to do...it never ends.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 05:29 PM
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IDK if it is just a cheap POS radiator. From the pic it looks like a stock single row...but OP says it is a aftermarket "aluminum" one.

Back when SoCalSS had a dyno day one members top hose blew off (blew factor clamp off) during a pull. Green coolant EVERYWHERE. His car was stock and the opinions of those in attendance felt the T stat was hanging. This happened above 5k rpms....and with a mechanical WP the flow increases with RPM's

Op may have a combination of cheap POS and a restriction in the cooling system causing this at high RPM's.

The heater core is protected somewhat with the factory "restrictor on the "in" line to heater core...although it can puke if to much pressure hits it.

One nice thing about a EWP....ALWAYS same flow rate at any RPM (selfishly speaking after running one for 17 years :-)

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 07:32 PM
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HeadGasket = Cly head PSI in radiator

NotoriouSS Tad
96' ImpalaSS - Johhny 5 - 7.9 @ 89.07 1.734 - sshhhhh......
96' 9C1 - POS / surf sedan / Beater - traps 103MPH / 30+MPG freeway~
67' El Camino - Rosie - 7.9 @ 86.5 1.77 60' on a street tire NA
73' Top Secret Bad Ideas Gone Wild
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