Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Largo, FL 33774
I did some research on electrolysis in the cooling system, and there is a product called Hyperkuhl (no-rosion.com) that will stop all electrolysis except for a little for solder (all aluminum/steel/iron/brass systems have little, or no solder). It takes 2 pints to treat the system at $13 per pint plus shipping, and it also makes the water wetter for better conductivity. The company suggests using antifreeze with either distilled or reverse osmosis filtered water for the best results. If you are in a non freezing area, you can use just reverse osmosis filtered water, and no antifreeze (mid Florida where I live). They do not recommend straight distilled water, because it is too aggressive.
A larger capacity radiator, if designed correctly, will always cool better than a smaller one. The higher flow rate through it will only make the water temp more even in the system. A similar construction radiator of "more" cores (2 vs. 4) will always cool better. The air going through it will have more surface area to pick up heat, and the water will have more surface area to dissipate heat. If the air flow rate is the same, the "more cores" radiator will pass more heat from the water to the air in a given period of time at the same air flow rate. It will not be twice as much, but it will be substantially more. If your engine is overheating, and you have all good components, your radiator is not sufficient for the heat output of the engine. If the radiator is sufficient for the amount of heat produced by the engine, it is more likely that a hose is collapsed, the fan is not turning at the proper speed, or the pump impeller blades are eroded.
1991 OCC 461 (.030 over 454) BBC, 3.23 posi, flash to pass, drop spindles & springs, custom fender skirts, Impala rims, Recaros, Blazer console, MOMO/wood SW w/QR, custom wood shift knob, Pioneer DEH P77DH
1992 OCC now with 5.7 tbi, DEH P77DH
For a parts list, check http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...1#post11691762