Bleeding coolant - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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Bleeding coolant

I can't seem yo find this when do I bleed the air from the coolant do I do it with te engine hot or cold some say to do it 10 min after the car is warmed up and some say to warm it up and let it sit over night then bleed what is the best way to bleed it

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-26-2013, 08:03 AM Thread Starter
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Can anyone tell me when should I open the bleeder before I start the engine or when I shut it off

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-26-2013, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marky Dissod View Post
Considering CRSSDMS's wise advice, I've made some important corrections to:
The 94 B-Car Field Service Manual's Draining & Refilling Procedure:

DRAIN
1. If car is hot, loosen coolant recovery reservoir cap VERY SLOWLY until a slight hiss is heard. When hissing stops, continue loosening cap VERY SLOWLY until a slight hiss is heard again. Repeat until cap is removed.

2. If car is cold, just remove the coolant recovery reservoir cap.

3. Loosen and eventually disconnect the radiator outlet hose at the bottom of the passenger-side of the radiator.

4. Do something to protect the Opti-Spark from the coolant about to issue forth from the air bleeder valve.

5. Open bleeder.
DON'T CLOSE IT YET!

6. Remove both knock sensors on both side of the engine block.

7. Allow system to drain completely.

REFILL
8. Re-tighten radiator outlet hose.

9. Install knock sensors.

10. SLOWLY fill cooling system through the coolant recovery reservoir, just past the top of the 'FULL COLD' mark.

11. Close bleeder when bubbles disappear, and only coolant is visible.

12. Run engine till thermostat opens.

13. Reopen bleeder.

14. See Step #11.

15. Reinstall coolant recovery reservoir cap.

[16. Experience has shown that steps #11 thru #15 may bear repeating, depending on how thoroughly the system was bled.]

Haven't gotten around to getting one, but the
Enhanced Bleeder Valve
is pretty sweet.
It bears repeating:
11. Close bleeder when bubbles disappear, and only coolant is visible.

12. Run engine till thermostat opens.

13. Reopen bleeder.

14. See Step #11.

15. Reinstall coolant recovery reservoir cap.

[16. Experience has shown that steps #11 thru #15 may bear repeating, depending on how thoroughly the system was bled.]

Depending on a number of factors, possibly including how much gunk is left in the system, it may require several burpings over the course of a week.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-26-2013, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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So I should be bleeding it with the cap off and the engine running with tstat open

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-26-2013, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ztater View Post
So I should be bleeding it with the cap off and the engine running with tstat open
yes...and

turn heat to HOT
have nose of car "slightly" raised or car on slight incline
stuff rags around bleeder to minimize coolant from getting on opti

if you can find a "speed bleeder" aka "enhanced bleeder valve" that some have made it is very painless and mess free as the tube from this "speed bleeder" runs into resovoir. just watch until bubbles dissapear (if using clear hose), close valve, remove hose from resovoir and put cap on..

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-26-2013, 08:38 PM
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I'm wondering how you build pressure to bleed the system with the cap off? I have alway ran the engine until the upper hose gets hot & firm with the cap on, then bleed it. Spit's like a trucker a couple of times, piss's green ...done. Never got any more air out after that. Done it 4x like that over the years, never an issue. If people are trying to do this with the cap off, that probably explains why they have problems doing it. You can't force the air out with no pressure. Nor do I turn the heat on, these cars don't have a heater control valve like a Dodge that blocks flow to the HC, coolant flows thru the HC heater on or off.

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Last edited by Gregg-O; 02-26-2013 at 08:41 PM.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-26-2013, 08:42 PM
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Bleeding coolant

I don't see how removing the cap would help. After the initial fill,I've always bled w/cap on. After running long enough to open stat.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-26-2013, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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K ill try its with the cap on tstat open and the car running tomorrow mornin and let ya know how it goes thanks for the help

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-27-2013, 07:30 AM
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[QUOTE=Gregg-O;2740098]I'm wondering how you build pressure to bleed the system with the cap off? QUOTE]


true that....

I also either jack up the front end or park the car on an incline when bleeding.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-11-2013, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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So I got the heat woriking in the car great but now I the car runs a lil warm not super hot but the needle is higher than it has been before not sure what to look at next any help

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