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95wagon LS7 project

180K views 248 replies 59 participants last post by  95wagon 
#1 ·
Before the forum crash, Gerry was talkin' about dropping an LS7 in his spotless wagon.
Anyone else here itchin' for a project update???
 
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#7 · (Edited)
While I had planed to cut the crossmember to clear the dry sump pan , it was so close to fitting (engine would sit on mounts with only a relief for the tank drain) I decided to rework the oil pan.


Clearancing, as expected put holes in the corners



Which have to be made to "go away" along with the tank drain.
 
#8 ·
While the oil passages and lines may make sense in a Corvette, the routing does not if you are running the dry sump tank in the front.
To that end, I am blocking off the internal passages from pump side of pan.
The boss sitting on top will become the relocated dry sump drain (LS7 has two drains)


Machined plug intersects oil passage to "turn it off"


Lines will now come straight off pump at front of engine.
This will remove about 3 feet and numerous bends from each of the lines.




That's all for today.
 
#14 ·
Custom Pulley set up to move A/C forward

ATI crank drilling fixture


Dowel Pin


ATI LS7 Hub


Hub Seated


ATI LS7 standard dia, no A/C pulley


Machining ATI 916734 "F" body rear A/C pulley to fit front of LS7 Damper


Centering ring for pulley



Studs and beveled spacers



Temporary hardware


A/C pulley in front


This allows moving the A/C compressor forward.
This is espesially important in my application because I chose to set my engine back as far as I could and did not want to chop a big cut out in the cross member.

High mounting the A/C was out because,,,, well,,,, it looks like hell.

Next up, building A/C compressor mounts
Gerry
 
#15 ·
A/C Mounting Bracket so A/C will clear cross member

.375 main mounting plate



Milling "Y" body mount to tuck in closer to block



Main plate, piece of truck mount, milled "Y mount




Porous Castings + iffy welding skills



Compressor is forward, in and down.
Scary close to idler arm at full lock left.
 
#16 ·
Header time

Started with ARH stainless 1 7/8 headers for a Camaro that they were willing to supply with raised LS7 "D" port flanges and just tacked together



Left side was very close . They needed cutting loose so they could be rolled inboard a bit and up.



Right side , not so much!! They hit the frame big time and would not clear any aftermarket starter. Only 1 pipe will be untouched.






Getting there.
Have to get some different radius bends.

Will be using the ARH collectors as I just found out last night me TriY collectors are not the size I bought. Ah well I have somewhere they can go.
Stay tuned
 
#17 ·
Getting close with the headers.

They were ARH "F" Body 1 7/8 with LS7 D port flanges
The left was able to be used after cutting the pipes loose to alter angles





The right not so much!!
#2 primary was the only tube not cut although it went from being inside to outside in the collector.
Every other tube had to be changed a lot.






One added plus is I can now use an aftermarket starter which "stock" ARH headers do not allow.

Gerry
 
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#18 · (Edited)
Joel, I have seen back and forth on this as well as running the mismatch on the top.



I believe a proper step at a calculated distance from the valve is currently "the way"

Case in point, some headers I am doing on something else right now are 8" (10 from valve), 12", 10" steps.



Now, if you mean run "normal" round LS flanges , I really did think on it for two reasons.
One, MUCH easier to build headers
Two , maybe the old reversion step might help, but at least not hurt.

That was until I learned the LS7 port is higher in relation to the bolts.
You can see the pipes are higher here,


A 1 7/8 round port LS flange would hang in the LS7 port.
Gerry
 
#19 ·
Couple steps forward

First photo gives a good look at the relocated mount holes.
I am using two left frame brackets to get away from the goofy LT1 specific right hand one



Did some final checks with the headers and frame braces .
Got the floor and cross member touched up.
LS7 will be going in for good very soon.
 
#22 ·
GMPP "Y" body drive

In place, ABS all over the alternator

Section ABS bracket to move ABS forward and left


beginning of shield for brake lines in case it ever blows a belt

"Y" body compressor mounted ahead of ATI damper with custom fitted front pulley.
This saves cutting up the the front of the cross member

 
#25 · (Edited)
I have asked Joel if he could do a little "spring cleaning" of this thread to put it a little more on track.
So if you see some posts gone ( so many are pointless to leave after the point was made)
that is what happened. Just trying to keep the thread a little more on point, so to speak.

More stuff this week end.
Thanks for the encouragement and positive comments

Gerry
 
#26 · (Edited)
This weekends progress

Clutch hardline to # 4 AN bulkhead


Ready to struggle in inch by inch with wood blocks

Modified 1970 "A" body crossmember


Loop. Somewhat big now as the new driveshaft is only 3.75


Floor adapter for shifter ( no changes from LT1 T56 )


"Plastic" driveshaft


Billet MW yokes ( in for a penny,,,,,,,, )



Closer
 
#28 · (Edited)
The filler was cut on the lathe
I'm fairly pleased with the results.
Like I said, I am not going to completely hide it but once I get some color on it it should be good .




Color on it (looking over shoulder for orange peel police)

I had a second link to use to get the extra length with one joint.
While these are the left overs , they give a look at the type of splice
The offset cut is to add strength to the joint.




This chapter closed . All seems to work

 
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#29 ·
Gerry,

Your throwout bearing looks very similar to the Ford Truck bearing Keisler uses. The picture only shows one line. How do you bleed that puppy? What did you do to the bell housing to
allow you to install the transmission with the T/O bearing and line in place? I have had problems getting mine back together.

Allen
The throwout is factory GM The only change made was the routing of the line.

The factory routing has it coming out a little higher than my position through a opening between the housing and trans.
The reason I routed the line the way I did is twofold
One, the closeness of the tunnel would make connecting-disconnecting a pain.
Two , this is the exact same place I had the fitting on the last trans . so I didn't have to change anything.

One might reason having the line go down and back up could cause a bubble to get trapped but my thinking is the volume of the line from top of slave to low point is less than the amount of fluid displaced during a full clutch applications.
So if there was a bubble in the slave, clutch action should get it to the part of the line that is up hill to the master so it could migrate up toward the master .

Now, bleeding with one line,,,,

VACUUM BLEEDING IS YOUR FRIEND

Short history.

When I did my T56 in 2007, I used a Weir throw out.
All the photos and articles showed a "normal" two line deal.
When I got the throw out it only had a single line, WTF??

A conversation with Bob left me sceptical
"trust me, just vacuum bleed, you'll be fine"

I took him at his word
Put the whole deal together , filled the reservoir about 1/3 full, put a vacuum pump on the cap .
Two pulls, releases, perfect pedal .
Never bled the clutch again for the 3 years .

Fast forward to this set up
I have done a quick vacuum pull and the pedal is right there.

I am planning on a master bore size change because the Weir required a large 1" master and it "may" over stroke the production GM slave.

Try the vacuum bleed, I think you will be amazed.
While I do not think it is suitable for brake systems, for clutch and cooling systems I think it is awesome.
Gerry
 
#30 ·
Dry sump tank

Mounting Brackets welded to rail


Peterson 08-0025-ATS Oil tank, just above bottom of rad support





Cap just clears hood liner


Wheel well cut out for clearance


tire clearance at lock


Plastic inner liner will need mods to fit but will be mostly intact.
Everthing is close but it all looks like it will work
 
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