This has been boggling me for a while, I just now figured I should bring it up. but the title says it all. I dont really have a name for it, but that big flat triangular jug that sits on top of the engine that says "V8 fuel injection", what purpose does it serve?
I feel like it should have some sorta filter in it but seems upon inspection, like a big hollow piece of plastic that I have to unbolt and remove anytime I need to do some engine work. Today I found a plastic cap, roughly around the size of the hole the jug mouth fits in. I stuck the cap in the hole, tightened the fastener and my car seems to run fine as long as there is anything that can plug the hole. Am I missing out on anything by not having that jug on top of my engine?
It's a Heimholtz Resonator to quiet engine sounds. It is known as home plate for obvious reasons. It does not restrict performance but if you remove it, you need to get a CAI. There are lots of threads on that subject. The reason the hole needs to be plugged is apparent if you look at the engine. Spend some time here reading about how your car works. Buy a Haynes Manual before you start messing around with it. Goodluck.
CAI? I assume that means cold air intake, right?
That jug lets in cold air? lol
In the mean time, will I mess up my engine if I leave that cap in the hole before I look into getting this, CAI?
FBI pretty much nailed it.....its just a Baffle/Noise restrictor that the engineers added to the car. It also does/Did a good job at Dressing up the Engine Bay a little covering the top of the intake and gave them a good spot to Advertise that MPFI. :laugh:
As he said, it's referred to as Homeplate and many just remove it when adding a Cold Air Intake system along with that other Square Baffle (first base) that sits on top of the Rad support. No need for it either, just a noise reducer.
You don't need to get a CAI, although many do, if removing "home plate", just plug the hole in the intake elbow as you did. A hockey puc fits, Skippy P-nut butter lid also
Both that large "home plate" and the square shaped one in the air intake system are intake noise reduction baffles. They have no performance +/- on or off the car. Just a visual thing
2. That god-forsaken ugly harness snaking around everything is - ugly.
2A.Homeplate is free.
2B.Any CAI is expensive.
2Bi. And then you still need homeplate.
2Bii.Or an even more expensive engine dress.
2Biia.Yes, google engine dress.
and most important,
3. Probee, already on board 2 months and 19 posts. Recess is over. Start Searching. And threads like this are for assing up the Misk.
3A. Hint: Misk is a misspelled contraction.
EDIT!
4.In 30-60 years the HP, FB, 90Elbow and airbox set will be worth $80 to restorers.
4A.Only if not swiss-cheesed.
4Ai. Google swiss-cheesed airbox.
I just did this on my Roadmaster. Deleted the home base, but kept everything else.
If you go for an elbow that deletes the opening for the home base, as I did, you'll need to get one that has a hole for the opti vent, or just drill a small hole in a place that's well reinforced.
I kept everything else, and didn't swiss cheese the box.
I like that I can actually see the engine. I'm thinking that will be a great help in getting my impala going.
You will need to make sure that plug you used can withstand underhood temperatures, exposure to fluids such as oil, and the vacuum pulled by the engine at WOT.
A cheap alternative to getting rid of "1st Base" (the rectagular box between the air filter box and the rubber elbow) is to use a section of PVC drain/waste/vent pipe and a rubber coupler.
There was an urban legend that the home plate and first base functioned as an air reserve during WOT. I think it was debunked here before the great crash in the time of all knowledge.
The home plate can be removed without adding a cold air intake, the hole just needs to be blocked. I have personally used a salsa lid.
If removing the home plate, don't remove the mounting hardware, just the plastic. I think the rest is holding the fuel rail in place.
A hockey puck is best - standard correct size and heavy duty. The cheapest black one is fine. Too many reports of thin lids coming loose, bending, etc.
You really do want to get rid of the black metal frame superstructure - looks awfully dumb sitting there empty. Use the 4 bolts to secure the fuel rail for a nice clean look.
Many of us who did remove "home plate" and or installed a CIA using the F-body intake elbow (no hole) also did the "Corvette Engine Dress" to cover the now exposed injectors and wiring harness. Purely a cosmetic mod but does dress up the engine. Also the F-body TB cable cover
you do need to coax the large wiring loom on both sides of he engine so it tucks into the cavity between heads and intake manifold. To do that right you need to disconnect fuel lines to get it so it is "under" those and runs cleanly across the back of motor
There are some "aftermarket" engine dress kits also but the Corvette one looks like this:
My home plate wasn't hooked up but i liked it for show. Here it is with a RAISS CAI. So many ways to go, so go with what pleases you. http://www.1finecaprice.com/engine.htm
Home plate is a heimholtz resonator. Its only function is to quiet the intake. It does not aid or restrict the airflow. Removing it and first base has no effect on the car's performance. CAI's have little effect also as the stock setup already draws air from a cool place. People who claim performance benefits are having the illusion of more power because they like the sound of the intake and the appearance of the CAI..
Jim, in no way do I take issue with your position as regards the function of the resonator. What I wanted understood is that the entire OE intake IS a "system", and changes can have an influence--or unintended consequences--on the function of system, which is carefully tuned to the application.
Many different intake mods have been used on the LT1 B-body over the years, and the position of the MAF has often changed with those mods. I don't pretend to KNOW exactly what impact changing the distance between the MAF and TB is, but I'm fairly certain that the air column and volume of air between the two components is based on some of the production tuning parameters, as it does influence the MAF signal due to a change to anything that has an influence on the air column.
Tuning can probably correct for a change in position/distance of the MAF to TB, but I'm not going to say that removing the resonator should be combined with re-tuning of some sort, if the rest of the OE system remains in place.
Someone with OE production drivability tuning experience, like Michael Kaczmar, may be able to comment with more useful information on the intake system--resonator influences, air column length (between MAF sensor & TB), etc.
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