Lines to power steering pump - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-06-2012, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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Lines to power steering pump

How do I remove the lines going into / coming from the power steering pump? My gearbox was leaking so I am replacing the old lines snapped removing the gearbox we have the alternator out but was 100% sure on how to get these lines off of pump. I don't have a manual and will be purchasing one very soon but we are working on this now.

PLEASE HELP!!!

1996 DGGM Impala
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-06-2012, 03:10 PM
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the metal line is a 5/8" or 16mm wrench, I found removing the battery ground strap from the accessory bracket helped but I have gary's cables.

the supply hose oem squeeze clamp you obviously have to rotate the hose to reach the clamp with pliers.
I replaced it with a worm clamp.

remember you can also lift the reservoir up off the bracket so it can rotate too to get the hose off.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-06-2012, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you

Thank you do much foryour quick reply I'm having trouble just getting to the bottom line I can't even see it what all has to come off? I'm completely lost obviously. Should the ac come off

1996 DGGM Impala
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-06-2012, 03:34 PM
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ac doesnt have to be touched.
if you have the alternator support rods remove the one that bolts to back of alt and if necessary loosen and lift the one going to lower alt mount.
you can reach the metal line at rear of pump with wrench and even if necessary reach in with hand and loosen with fingers.

dont forget the small o-ring isnt stuck in the pump fitting either, replace with a new one.

evil T-47 seatbelt bolts and cutdown ZQ8 bumpstops, Kore3 front brakes, TB bypass, Dynotech DS, F-body EGR, Meziere WP, Comp Cams 1.6RR/CM springs, trans by Moi Industries, Yank 3600, Earls trans cooler/rad cooler delete/Derale t-stat, RAISS, SLP headers, SLP injectors, pypes X-pipe/magnaflows, Borgeson shaft, Hotchkis springs, PPM front stuff, Metco rear arms, Clear Image DS loop/trans crossmember, 3.73s, eaton posi, Hypertech for smog \"[<img BH tuned PCM
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-06-2012, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craigc3814 View Post
Thank you do much foryour quick reply I'm having trouble just getting to the bottom line I can't even see it what all has to come off? I'm completely lost obviously. Should the ac come off
Should not have to remove the AC compressor. The Metal fitting going from the back of the pump over to the steering box just sort of sits on top of the compressor. The other metal line from the steerring box runs back to the Plastic resevoir tank. If yours does not have the cooler, then both of these hoses rubber portions are strap to the front frame crossmemer and run under the Engine oil pan.

Be very careful with the clamped hose that runs from the resevoir into the back of the PS Pump. This hose is not available anywhere. But if you look at the Group Purchase section you will see a post of mine there where it looks like Gates might be re-poping these but nothing definite yet. So be real careful with that hose. You shouldn't need to remove it if you are just rerplacing the metal Pressure hose. the other hoses are available at any parts store. and only run about $20 each.

It's a tight fit in the accessory area. Getting the Alternator out of the way is easy and could be a big help in gaining access.

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-06-2012, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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Ugh

Got it off can't get the new one to start threading to save my life gave up for the night. Having alot of trouble lining everything up to get it going

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-06-2012, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craigc3814 View Post
Got it off can't get the new one to start threading to save my life gave up for the night. Having alot of trouble lining everything up to get it going
They can be tricky sometimes to get started. Try not to mount any of the line to any of the clamps so you can still wiggle the metal lines around as you try to start the threads. Make sure the fitting is going in as straight as possible into the fitting and you should be able to get a few threads started by hand. Don't force it in there and cross thread it. Sometimes it is best to take a breath and come back later. Keep at it, you'll get it.

================================================== =============


'95 Caprice SS conversion - Bonny Buckets - 96 Column, Shifter and Console - 3.73 Gear and Herter tune - Z/28 Cluster - Blazer OH Console - Green/Pink bushings - Chromed Impala Wheels - Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks - Corvette Engine Dress - the list goes on and still more to do...it never ends.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 03:43 PM
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Yup. Drink a beer, listen to ZZ Top, then try again.

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 06:51 PM
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Unbolt the PS pump so you have more room. Its way easier removing and hooking up the lines that way. The mobility a loose PS pump will give you will save a lot of headaches. Just rent the AZ power steering pulley remover. To install just get a good bolt, nut and a washer that fits good. IF you have a small bearing, that works nicer to press the pulley back on smooth.

If the PS line is stuck on the pump, Get a good flare wrench, put it over the line, block up the PS pump so it moves around less and hit the wrench with a hammer.. That, or cut off the line flush and use a socket (Which works well on the lines to the steering box as they are always rusted)

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Last edited by ghetto wagon; 06-07-2012 at 06:55 PM.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-08-2012, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghetto wagon View Post
Unbolt the PS pump so you have more room. Its way easier removing and hooking up the lines that way. The mobility a loose PS pump will give you will save a lot of headaches. Just rent the AZ power steering pulley remover. To install just get a good bolt, nut and a washer that fits good. IF you have a small bearing, that works nicer to press the pulley back on smooth.

If the PS line is stuck on the pump, Get a good flare wrench, put it over the line, block up the PS pump so it moves around less and hit the wrench with a hammer.. That, or cut off the line flush and use a socket (Which works well on the lines to the steering box as they are always rusted)
I was also thinking what GHETTO WAGON mentioned about removing the pump but if you keep at it and get the alty out of your way I think you'll be able to start the threads..

As Ghetto mentioned, removing the pump from the bracket may make it a little easier to get started but you may have more trouble trying to hold that as well. But you could sort of guide the pump fitting onto the hose assuming you are having trouble getting the hose to move.

BTW - Ghetto - He shouldn't have to remove the pulley to get the pump off the accesory bracket. There should be 4 bolts that mount the PS Pump Flat plate to the Accesory bracket. He can then remove this assembly from the accesory bracket. I just did this to PCoat the bracket and pulley. Took the assembled PS PUMP, Pulley and flat plate into AZ for them to remove the pulley. Then back in to reinstall for me after coating was done.

================================================== =============


'95 Caprice SS conversion - Bonny Buckets - 96 Column, Shifter and Console - 3.73 Gear and Herter tune - Z/28 Cluster - Blazer OH Console - Green/Pink bushings - Chromed Impala Wheels - Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks - Corvette Engine Dress - the list goes on and still more to do...it never ends.
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