I finally managed to get my P0300 taken care of with my car, now I have another problem. It sounds like I've spun a rod bearing in my 96 stock LT1. I do have a 94 spare LT1 and I know that they're different but its all stuff I can change over. Just know that this car isn't a driver right now as I've been fixing problems and doing bodywork.

Now my question is...

Should I pull the oil pan and replace the bearings and oil pump while in the car and be done with it?

OR

Should I do a complete tear down of the spare then do an engine swap?

Tear down! Make it a stroker! STROKER! STROKER!

This car will be a daily driver when I'm finished. Wouldn't making a stroker out of it shorten its life span?

making it a stroker won't decrease it's lifespan "IF" you stay on the mild side of cams and don't beat the F out of it. That really would apply to any engine. It will cost more $ since you need larger pistons and a stroker crank & rods + machine work on block

My $02 would be to "refresh" your spare motor and transfer the OBD2 (96) specific stuff over to the older LT1.

If you know the current motor has a knock AND it is a rod bearing you could do those with motor in the car but it is a huge PIA and you would not be able to polish the crank (assume it would need that at the very least). If it was a main crank braring than you would be hosed in swaping that with motor in car.

You can buy a re-ring/bearing kit and gaskets for the LT1 for not much from places like Summit. Send your crank out for a polish and the block for rehone and new cam bearings. That would give you a very good motor for DD. If you want to add a small cam like a 227, 845 or LE211 that would be good to. Suggest you upgrade valve springs also.

This car will be a daily driver when I'm finished. Wouldn't making a stroker out of it shorten its life span?
No, it would simply be a slightly larger displacement motor with different engine geometry. As BALLSS said, as long as you stick with a mild cam, use all good parts, don't abuse it, and built it up strong, it should last just as long if not longer than any other engine. These are the determining factors in the longevity of ANY rebuilt motor. The most important thing to remember is that the devil is in the details.

In fact, if you use a good cam, and watch how you drive, you may even notice fuel economy gains since the motor won't have to work as hard to move along. There is always a happy medium to be found, and the best thing to do is sit down and think about what you want out of your car, set a goal, then do the research and ask questions on the best way to achieve that goal.

BALLSS also made a good point of refreshing the older LT1 with the newer OBDII components. Then you'll be free to do whatever you wish with the current LT1 whether it be building it up into a good solid stroker, or just rebuilding it to stock specifications.

I'm trying to find answers with search and not having a lot of luck. For a daily driver with a mild 383 build will I need headers, larger injectors, throttle body, etc.? I plan on getting some headers but trying to decide if I get them before even touching the engine.

Why bother with a 'mild' 383, in that case you might as well just build a good 355. You have to set some goals here before you waste a bunch of $$$ and not get what you want.

If your going to do it do it right rebuilt your motor so you hopefully won't run into any problems later. What was causing the PO300?

If your going to do it do it right rebuilt your motor so you hopefully won't run into any problems later. What was causing the PO300?

Amazing crappy plug wires. They were brand new although a cheap Beldin set. After chasing it down for way too long to admit I found where if a plug wire ohms out at higher than 700 ohms, replace it. Those Beldin's ranged from 3kohms to 8kohms. Yes, 3,000ohms to 8,000ohms. WHAT CRAP wires. My new wires ohm out at 82ohms for the longest run.

YAY! Taylor ThunderVolt 50's!!!

For a daily driver with a mild 383 build will I need headers, larger injectors, throttle body, etc.? I plan on getting some headers but trying to decide if I get them before even touching the engine.

you don't "need" headers but just like with any motor they will enhance flow/performance. A 48 mm TB will also be "OK" but if you do head work, headers a larger TB is part of the overall equation but not necessary if just building a 383 CI bottom end. Yes better heads, cam, TB, headers, free flow exhaust & intake, larger injectors and tune WILL all add more performance. If you just want some more TQ then stock you "can" just rebuild the bottom end as stroker 383. The 383 will yield more TQ over smaller displacement with = mods.

Larger injectors come more ino play with ported heads/cam not necessairly just more CI. If you do head work than yes 30 lb min would be recommended. All this needing a tune.

Why bother with a 'mild' 383, in that case you might as well just build a good 355. You have to set some goals here before you waste a bunch of $$$ and not get what you want.

by "mild" I did not mean is was not "good". Good machine work, parts & assembly are what you want. A 383 will give more TQ with = mods over a smaller displacement engine.

In my case smog is a problem so I had to stay with a smaller cam that yields less "performance" than possible. CARB certified shorty headers also.

Least exspensive path would be for the OP to stay 350 or 355 if he needs a .030 over bore which means new pistons but he could re-use stock rods & crank. Summit, and others, hace a complete "rebuild" kit with decent parts for a daily driver.

Well, I actually did spin a couple of bearings and I will be rebuilding my spare '94 LT1. So my question is, if I build a stroker out of it will it be a pain to drive if I run stock TB, heads, exhaust manifolds and heads for the time being? Or should I just rebuild '94 LT1 and save up for a larger TB, better heads, and headers then build the '96 as a stroker?

I'm sure others will have some valuable input, but here's my 2 cents worth...You may consider doing at least the headers now, simply because it is WAY easier with the engine removed from the car, which I assume you'd do if you're building a stroker, or even just rebuilding the bottom end. It's easier to access the exhaust manifolds, and if you have a stud snap, you can get it out, etc. You can always go back and bolt up some heads, TB, etc. later because they're more ACCESSIBLE. ;)

Ash

you need to decide if you want a 383 or just a rebuilt 355 (assume you will have block rebored for any rebuild)

the least exspensive path on a rebuild is to take your 94 and have it machined .030 over and have the stock crank polished. You can buy a "rebuild kit" at Summit for LT1 which would include new pistons, rings, bearings and all the gaskets you need. This will give you a new stock motor which should perform very well.

Now if you want a 383 that will require a 383 rotateing assembly of crank, rods & pistons + all the bearings and gaskets. This will cost more BUT being a larger displacement will give you more TQ over a 350 with all parts equal.

Now if you want more power that is where headers, larger injectors, TB, 1:6 RR, head work AND a tune will all be needed....needless to say all at $$$

you will want the block machined and new cam bearings pressed in. if going 383 you do not "need" all the supporting performance parts. You will just have a larger displacement motor and have a little more TQ than a 350/355

Because the 94 is OBD1 you do need to harvest the timing cover, crank trigger gear from your current motor to the 94. also the 96 crank hub

so decide what you want to do but basically you can just do a 383 CI motor and keep all other parts stock...but most would suggest just doing a 355 rebuild if you take that path.