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Grant Steering Wheel Installation Tips

25K views 28 replies 11 participants last post by  Fred Kiehl 
#1 ·
What follows is an outlined sequential explanation with pictures of the steps I took to remove and install a new aftermarket steering wheel - the Grant Elite GT 742. Much of what is written here was not fully explained in the Haynes manual or other posts that I could find as it’s specific to the Grant Steering wheel application.

I followed instructions from a Haynes manual for the steps of stock steering wheel removal so I will not include that part here. The direction pages that are included with the new adapter and steering wheel are worth looking at, but were not specific enough for the ’96 Impala application. Some parts were not used and directions became confusing. However, the exploded views did give a general idea of how the new unit is pieced together.

1. Park car so steering wheel is in the straight ahead position and ignition key in lock position. Disconnect negative battery cable.

2. Allow for several hours and even multiple removals and reinstalls of the new steering wheel as this may be necessary to get just the right spacing of the adapter on the steering shaft and deburring amount of the inner lip of the steering column for an acceptable smooth rotation. 2 different steering wheel pullers will be needed, one with the straight beam, center anchor screw and the 2 long fastening screws to be used for removing the stock wheel. The other is the 3 prong puller used for pulling off the new adapter (which will probably be needed if/when the new wheel is tightened down too much which creates binding of the unit). Both were “rented” at Autozone. It’s a trial and error process to get just the right spacing for the new bezel (post cover) and the adapter on the splined portion of the steering shaft so that there is maximum engagement, but also without binding which will make the wheel very difficult to turn. You want to get the post cover bezel (half bagel shaped black piece) inserted just inside the lip of the steering column bezel (about 1/8”), but not too much so the wheel rotates smoothly. I also put some bearing grease along the rim of the inner lip to promote smooth rotation.

3. The yellow air bag wire needs to come out by disconnecting it from its mate at the bottom under the dash, cutting off the connector end, and then pulling it out through the top with the removal of the clockspring. The small hole next to the yellow wire on the left is for the horn wire, which has been removed in the picture. I used the new horn wire and spring included with the Grant steering wheel, but used the stock black plastic tube retainer to install it as the white Grant retainer tube was too tall. I also needed to cut the black tube retainer in half as that one was also too tall once the new adapter was installed. Make sure to leave one of the little nipple tabs intact so it will engage in its slot and maintain proper position. (Sorry, I don’t have a picture of the horn wire piece).


4. Used a drill with a sanding barrel piece to remove the two tabs at the top of the steering column, which were there to hold clockspring in place. Also deburred/sanded the entire circumference of the inner lip of the steering column as the post cover bezel was just too tight of a fit and made the steering wheel very difficult to turn. This may have to be done several times to get it to an acceptable tolerance of turning resistance/smoothness. It took me 3 times to get it to a comfortable amount of free rotation – not too stiff. Be careful not to sand too much and compromise the integrity of the steering column outer housing.


5. Next, install the adapter onto the steering shaft by using the steering shaft nut (13/16” socket). First time, I tightened it all the way down and that was too much as the post cover bezel which attaches to the adapter was too far into the steering column – too tight. So needed to use the 3 prong puller to pull off the adapter and try it again to get the right depth for the post cover bezel. Finally settled on adapter top flat being about 1/8” above splined portion of shaft. This is about 98% engagement and very safe, I believe. This will prevent any washers from having to be used to create more space when the post cover bezel is attached in the next step. The bearing grease can be seen along the inner lip in the picture. This will help to give an accurate assessment of how the wheel will feel in its rotation when assembled. Also, see the horn wire coming thru the adapter at top. The adapter will need to be positioned onto the splined portion of the steering shaft just right so the steering wheel is at the straight ahead position, while at the same time allowing for the 5 steering wheel attachment holes and the horn hole on the (black)spacer to be lined up properly and in the straight ahead position also. This should make a lot more sense and be clear when the 3 pieces are put together to achieve alignment. Once correct position of the adapter is achieved, remove the steering shaft nut.


6. Install steering post cover bezel onto the adapter with 3 screw holes and horn holes matching. How is the insertion depth into the steering column? Hopefully,not too much. About 1/8” is good. If it’s more you may need to back off the adapter a little more.


7. Next, attach spacer to steering post bezel cover and adapter with 3 screws provided (use blue locktite), matching horn holes again.


8. Next, install steering shaft nut, not too tight to cause binding. When it just makes contact with spacer surface, just a tiny bit more tightening to achieve snug position (use blue locktite). I did not use a torque wrench, just feel.


9. Next, install steering wheel in straight ahead position. Insert key and unlock. Test steering wheel rotation. If it’s too stiff, the entire unit will need to be removed again and process done again to get the right adapter spacing and/or smoothness of inner column bezel. Note the steering shaft nut top surface is just below the steering shaft, about 2 threads on shaft are showing.


10. Once good rotation is achieved, the horn button can be inserted. Connect the wire to the center tab on the back of the button first.

11. Next, move on to the yellow air bag wire at bottom of dash. Inside the yellow outer sheath are a green and white wire. Install a 2 ohm, 10 watt resistor between them. Use 2 wire connectors with heat shrink sleeves to do so.



This should do it. Connect negative battery cable. Air bag light should go off after a few blinks. Enjoy.



Parts:
steering wheel - the Grant Elite GT 742
http://www.streetsideauto.com/search.asp?keywords=grant+742 ($127)

http://www.summitracing.com/search?keyword=grant steering wheel 742&dds=1 ($146)

Adapter kit - 5 Hole Billet Steering Wheel adapter 69-94 GM Chevy, 76-95 Jeep in BLACK
http://www.ebay.com/itm/26118407180...AX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_3310wt_932 ($42)

Resistor:
2 ohm, 10 watt
local electronic parts store ($1.60)

2 wire connectors with heat shrink insulation cover
Ace Hardware ($1. 69)

This adapter kit piece is not used:
 
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#2 ·
Very nice.

Thanks for posting up....this will be one of my next projects.
 
#3 ·
Nice install write up. I didn't need to do any clearancing of the column though.The "742" is one of the most attractive wheels Grant offers,in my opinion.
 
#5 ·
Great post. I agree the 742 looks sweet.

I just installed my wheel (the basic Grant 701). My bezel cover rubs on the steering column a little bit, I have to go back and try to re-install or worst case file off 1mm on either the bezel cover or the column plastic.

But overall an easy installation. I may pick up another wheel in the future with a more rubber/softer wheel grip, but the 701 works for now.
 
#6 ·
where do you wire the resistor in? just into the original harness? one on the green, one the yellow? can you just plug it into the harness or do you have to wire it in?
 
#7 ·
Obviously,a variety of methods can be used. I decided to solder the resistor(s) to the wires coming from the dash harness.
 
#8 · (Edited)
I've written this installation process up a couple of times, and it is nice to see it in pictures. The Nardi and MOMO wheels install the same way with a suitable adapter. One is sold by apple289 and another is NRG. Both are available on ebay.

The one from apple289 needs a modification to the horn wire hole. The hole is about 1 diameter too far clockwise, and must be cut to allow for proper installation. The unit is made almost exactly the same as the Grant, but has a dual 6 hole pattern. You can get it with a 5/6 hole adapter as well. The adapter is available in different heights, and the 1 inch is the proper height for the B-body installation.

The NRG does not go inside of the trim, and is a little easier to install, because it is a one piece unit. You can get the NRG in a slimline, and put a quick disconnect between it and the wheel. There is a very inexpensive quick disconnect, that with a small modification, some custom length screws, and a 10mm spacer makes a clean, tight installation.

If you have a quick disconnect, you have an automatic security system. If you feel like there is a chance your car might be stolen, take the steering wheel with you. The cars are really difficult to drive without the steering wheel. A thief will walk away to another easier mark.
 

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#10 ·
Great write up! My only suggestion to your instructions would be to have another person hold a shop vac to the area being sanded down in order to prevent debris from falling into the inner column and contaminating the the bearings and electrical components.

Steve
 
#13 ·
When I did the sanding, the plastic melted and fell off in chunks into the bottom of the trim, or hung on to the top by a thread. I just had to pick them up and toss them into the trash can. There were almost no small debris.
 
#11 ·
It never occurred to me to get rid of the yellow wire and put the resister in under the dash. How brilliant is that!?
(I mounted my resister inside the hub, using the wheel-end of the yellow lead.)

 
#21 ·
What Wheel is that? I really like the look.

==================================

As for all the resistor talk, why even bother?? Just throwing this out there as another option....but from my perspective, I hit a deer a while back causing both AB's to deploy (what a mess & scary) which ruined an otherwise perfectly good Dash Pad and also busted "Out" the passenger side of the windshield. Replacement Dash Pads are harder to come by and I did not want to risk this again. It also added to my repair costs finding a new dash and getting a new Windshield. Airbags hurt like hell too when they slam you in the wrist, thought it broke my wrist at first.

Obviously you are removing the Drv. AB for the wheel, why not just completely remove the entire system and clean up the Engine compartment a little more. I guess the Pass. side AB would still work, but for what purpose other than what I described above. All you really need to do is remove the AirBag Bulb from the Cluster since it will be activated.

With the dash out, you can also remove the Pass. Side airbag and free up some space in there creating a nice little area for an Ampliphier or some other items you want to hide away. You can keep the AB Wires in place and use those later for other things if needed.

I removed this Fugly piece when I detailed the Rad Support....



This is the Sensor removed from the car.....




With that removed, you now have a set of wires from inside the cabin running out to the hood that you could use for some other project.

So since I now had the system fully disabled, I decided I may as well remove the Pass. side AB. This is the cavity left above the glove box once you remove that.



Again, just throwing this out there as an option and this may not be for everybody but is real easy to do.
 
#12 ·
Just my two cents on the resistor. I went to radio shack and picked up 2 1ohm 10watt and wired them in series. With a little bit of electric tape, I made it look nice and professional. For installing it. My budddy and I decided itd be best to leave the column wire in the column so we cut each end off and taped it in place. The connector that I cut off on the underdash side I soldered it to the resister. Then it was as simple as plug and play and with a few zip ties, it looks factory. Unfortunately I didnt take any pictures as it was 20 degrees and it was cool. Awesome mod. Thanks for the help guys
 
#14 ·
i have all the pieces i need but sadly i dont have a clue about the resistor thing or why it's needed. i've never been good with wiring. but i'm gonna go to radio shack and see if they have one. hopefully i can figure it out



 
#16 ·
i have all the pieces i need but sadly i dont have a clue about the resistor thing or why it's needed. i've never been good with wiring. but i'm gonna go to radio shack and see if they have one. hopefully i can figure it out



The resistor(s) "mimic" the airbag's resistance, and fools the SRS computer into thinking it is still installed. You can do the same thing to the sensors on the core support, but the value is a lot different. I took one of the sensors off, replaced it with a resistor package (8450 ohm 1/4 watt), and my system still thinks it has all of the parts working.
 
#15 ·
Udownwithk. In turns of what you need to buy for theresist. The list goes: 2ohm10watt resistors(couple of different ways), 18-22 gauge wire, soldering supplies, heat shrink, and thats about it.
For the resistor, you can go with 2 1ohm10watt resistors wired in series(which is wired in line, negative to the positive of the next one) to make a total resistance of 2ohm which is whats needed. Or you can go with a single 2ohm10watt which can be hard to find. Lastly you could with 2 4ohm10watts wired in parallel(both positive wired togethered, and negative wired together) for the 2ohm.
You need it because the air bag has a resistance to it to tell the sytem its still there, so without the resistor the system will fault and give you a light on the dash.
If you need help wiring it together with the under dash, just ask.
 
#17 ·
The resistor(s) "mimic" the airbag's resistance, and fools the SRS computer into thinking it is still installed. You can do the same thing to the sensors on the core support, but the value is a lot different. I took one of the sensors off, replaced it with a resistor package (8450 ohm 1/4 watt), and my system still thinks it has all of the parts working.
i will take this information to radioshack and see what they offer... i'm about to search the interwebs and see if i can find the fabled 2ohm 10 watt resistor, lol. thank you both!!
 
#18 ·
I think they still have an economy assortment pack. Resistors can be useful for projects like this,but also adjusting ohm readings to correct gauges (fuel,for example)
 
#19 ·
There is no positive or negative to a resistor. Just make the combination 2 ohms and use 10 watt resistors. I have had the 2, 4 ohm 10 watt resistors in parallel fail. The single 2 ohm 10 watt, and the 2, 1 ohm 10 watt resistors have both worked without failing.

Practice soldering and make "shiny" solder joints. "Dull" looking solder joints are usually "cold" and do not conduct electricity well.
 
#20 ·
#22 ·
Getting ready to get the Grant Elite 742 but undecided on which billet adapter to get.....Black or Chrome.

I wonder if the chrome would match the wheel better or is it better to stay with the black piece. Are the 2 parts in the 4th and 5th pic of the first post both part of the billet adapter? If you used the chrome adapter, please post a pic that shows it with the wheel. Thx.
 
#23 ·
If you have polished aluminum spokes, use the chrome one. If you have black spokes, use the black one.

If it is anodized black, have it powdercoated.
 
#24 ·
Got my 742 installed this weekend. Thanks to Sonuvah and Fred Kiehl for their help in getting this done. Sonuvah has a very nice write-up here and I wanted to add some info and pics to what I found. Also props out to StreetSide Auto, I ordered all these parts on Wednesday Morning and they were delivered on Thursday Afternoon and all this for $184 shipped...




Off with the old wheel and used T-30 Torx to remove Airbag and then a puller to remove wheel.



Once the wheel is removed you need to remove the AirBag Coil or Clock Spring. There is a Spring Retainer that first needs to be removed.



Once removed, I chose to just cut the plug at the bottom of the column and then just pulled off the AB Coil and pulled the wire out thru the column.



The wheel adapter kit from Grant included all of these parts. I chose the Chrome Adapater instead of the black one they offer.



I first installed the adapter and found theat the Grant has 2 tops for different wheels/cars. On our car you need to use the "Top B" and this aligns with a mark that is on top of the threaded shaft in the steering column.



Before installing the hub, I first ground off a little of the 4 tabs at the top of the column and then sand the inside so that the Half Bagle piece fit inside the column to a depth about 1/8" deep without any binding. Before grindin, I coved the insid with Paper Towels and Tap to keep any debris from falling down inside and then vacumed it all out.



Once ground down and I'm sure it fit inside with no binding, I moved onto the Horn circuit.

Continued.....
 
#25 · (Edited)
...continued.

The Grant kit did not include the Plastic locking tube for the hot wire or a wire that I wanted to use for the horn Hot Wire. The wire they included with the kit, I decided to use that for the Ground side of the circuit. More on that later.

Here is the Stock wheel and the 2 button circuit it uses.



I cut this off leaving enough red wire to splice in a little extra. I only need on wire so I cut off one of the red Wires leaving only on red wire attached to the part that goes into the colum with the Spring and locking tube.



I then reinstalled the Hub (YES, as SOnuvah mentioned, you will have this on/off a few times) to see how much of the plastic tube I would need to cutoff. It was pretty much cut in half which actually gives you a spare should you need it. I wanted it to come thru the hub a little to help protect the Hot Wire. Here it is after I marked it for cutting.

EDIT - looking back at this and as someone else mentioned, I may have just been able to leave the white tube as one piece and left it come all the way thru the covers. I think I was afraid it would be too tall, but thinking back on it, I don't think I even measured it. Now, if I ever need to remove this wire from the column, I will need to remove the covers. Remember, measure twice, cut once. Just make sure the wire does not have to bend too much or get to close to the bottom of the wheel and maybe rub thru and short out.



Here is how the wires for the horn were layed out before I soldered and crimped on connectors. The black wire came with the kit and I just used it for ground and crimped a ring on the end that would get mounted under one of the 3 Hub Bolts. The hot wire was twisted, soldered and I then coverd the solder joint with heat shrink and then the entire length of the red wire with heat shrink to help protect it from metal contact inside the Hub assembly.



Heres how the hot wire looks with the Plastic tube cut in half and the hub mounted.



When I went to mount the 1/2 bagel pice and then bolt on the hub, I noticed that the bagel cover would not fit into the Column as it did before. The reason for this was the bolt holes were so tight and when lined up with the hub, it was off center about a 1/8" and would not now fit inside the column. To fix this, I marked the 3 holes with red marker to grind this away, but later just decided to open them up a little with a larger drill bit. This gave me enuff play in the cover that the 3 bolts threaded into the hub, yet still allowed the 1/2 bagel cover to fit inside the column without binding. See where the theads of the hub are partially blocked by the Half bagel piece holes....



Once everything lined up well and there was no binding inside the column, I mounted the top trim ring on top of the bagel cover and bolted it down. You can see the hot wire is completely covered in heat shrink for protection and goes to the center terminal of the horn button. The other wire comes from the 2nd horn button terminal and is connected under one of the 3 bolts. I also connected the battery and tested the horn button (Beep Beep) before mounting the wheel.



So here are some pics of the new wheel completly installed. The other thing I wanted to do was replace the 5 Black Allen Head bolts that mount the wheel to the hub. The bolts are a Metric 5 and I just replaced them with the same bolt except used Stainless Allen head bolts instead of the Black oxide ones whch tend to rust in certain climates. I also like the look of the Stainless instead of the Black heads. I also like the Chevy Horn Button which matches my Black Grill with Red Bowtie perfectly. :) Really like the new look and feel of this wheel and cant wait to test it out when I take it for alignment later this week.




 
#27 ·
Thanks and yes, you noticed the LED for my alarm. I decided to put it there instead of drilling a hole in the harder to find dash bezel. I think I had it in Valet mode at the time and it was lite solid. Normally when alarmed it just blinks and is easily seen from the outside in the hopes it will scare off a thief.....yeah, right. :D
 
#28 ·
Update...

I tweaked the install a little and it seems much better.

First, I grabbed another plastic housing for the Hot Horn Wire and did not bother cutting it at all. It fits fine under the wheel and as someone else shared with me, if I ever need to remove this wire, I can do it without removing the Trim Piece and the Column cover (1/2 Bagel shaped piece) from the column.

Second, I found that the Column Cover was still dragging inside the column when I turned the wheel. It also appeared to be somewhat off center compared to the inside of the Column collar that I had first ground down to fit the cover inside of. so I did 2 things here to correct that issue.....

1) I brought the cover into work and milled off 1/8" of material from the base of the cover. This is the part of the cover that would normally go iinside of the column and what requires you to cut off the 4 tabs for the AB coil and grind the perimeter of the cover. I did not want to grind mor material away from the column bezel. So now the Adapter Cover just meets up with the face of the column bezel and does not go inside of it like before.

2) the other thing I found is that when the wheel was rotated, this cover would not follow the roundness of the column bezel and almost had a wobble to it compared to the colum bezel. Since the 3 bolt opening were so tight and did not allow for much movement on the hub, I just opened these up a little more. This allowed me to move the column cover and center it more over the Column Bezel while I tightened down the 3 Hub adapter bolts and then the center bolt.

Now when I turn the wheel, there is NO interference with the column and the cover rides true on top of the Column bezel. Here are some pics and if you look hard you can see it no longer goes into the Column Bezel, but is not noticable at all unless you really look hard for it. I like this solution much better and if I had to do this again, would just choose to remove material from the Column Cover and leave the column alone.



 
#29 ·
I can see the deviation of the steering column bezel next to the chrome piece. Most columns do not have that. It is nice that you can take the part to work, and machine it, most of us do not have that luxury. For the average guy, the cost of having it machined is more than the cost of buying another brand of adapter. It looks good, and I am glad you got the wheel installed, and working properly. There are often some quirks when installing aftermarket parts. You could also have made a spacer for under the trim to pull it out of the column. Some have used washers. Using washers should not affect the strength of the installation, although it moves the steering wheel about an eighth of an inch closer to the driver/away from the turn signal stalk. The distance to the turn signal stalk is a comfort thing. If you get the steering wheel too far from it, it feels awkward to use.

There are other adapters like the billet NRG style that do not extend into the column bezel, but they are for 6 hole wheels, and cost a lot more. Some are also made of sheet metal and have a rubber accordion cover, that I find ugly. I believe you can get a spacer/adapter that will accept the 5 hole pattern of the Grant wheel and will bolt to the short style NRG to put a grant wheel on it.

I found that the NRG was the easiest to install. It slipped over the column, and the nut held it in place. The horn wire hole was in the correct position, and from there you just bolt the wheel to the adapter. It is one piece. The 6 hole wheels are just as easy to find, and no more expensive than the Grant wheels.

Another option with the NRG is to use the short adapter, an $18 quick release (one minor modification is necessary before installation), and a 10mm spacer ring for the quick release clearance. I believe this stack is just about the same as the standard NRG adapter without the quick release and allows you to comfortably reach the turn signal stalk. The only quirk to this installation is the dish of the wheel must be shallow, and it will be a 6 hole NARDI or MOMO pattern wheel. You get a security device that is not subject to electrical whims (who is going to steal a car without a steering wheel?). You can eve get a couple of the quick releases and have the option of changing the steering wheel with an optional style, like I do with my 91. You could even have one for show and one for daily use.
 
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