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Bad bearing, power steering pump, alternator???

11K views 15 replies 9 participants last post by  SS DD 
#1 ·
Hey guys. Recently I've noticed a sound coming from the drive belt. At first I thought my belt was going bad, but it wasn't that ( it was changed two months ago). Then I thought it was the tensioner pulley...so I replaced it with a new one...still had that noise (FYI, the noise sounds exactly like a loose belt). The ac/compressor is brand new...it's not that. So I'm pretty much down to the alternator or the power steering pump. My feeling is that it's not the alternator, but I will have it checked out. My question is this...if it is a bad PS pump...wouldn't I notice it while driving (ie: turning/steering the car)??? Could it be a bearing inside the pump? Any thoughts about how much it would be to have it rebuilt?

Also, while removing the alternator, I snapped off the plastic clasp on the wire that connects to it! As I'm sure most of you have experienced this...it's quite annoying. The plastic is so brittle. I ordered a new wire/clasp from rock auto however...where does this wire lead to? I tried following it along the fuel rail but stopped as it became more cumbersome when it started to merge with larger and larger bundles of wire. When I get the new wire, should I just splice the old wire and connect the new wire/electrical connector to it???

Please...Anyone...HELP ME!!!

Thanks,

Mike


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#5 ·
Any quality starter/alternator rebuilding service has those pig-tails. They're common as dirt,and relatively inexpensive. Support your local businesses while they still exist.
 
#7 ·
Pull to seat

Normally has a "." in the series

Like,
a normal metripac 1.5 mm terminal is 150 series
http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/TerminalDetails.aspx?ItemId=216

a pull to seat 1.5 mm terminal is 150.2 series
http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/TerminalDetails.aspx?ItemId=214


The normal terminal has no seal for inside use and a crimed on seal for outside with retainer.
One individual seal per wire and then the secondary lock http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/ConnectorDetails.aspx?ItemId=302


The pull to seat has a seal visible in the rear that all the wires go through
http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/ConnectorDetails.aspx?ItemId=208
 
#10 ·
Update.

I found the wire connectors I needed from PEP BOYS! I ordered the new housing (plastic connector for the alt) from rock auto. So this problem is solved.

NOW...as for this noise...I pulled the power steering pump out. I would like to get it tested before I have it rebuilt or replaced. Does anyone know where I can take this to be tested? I live in Long Island, NY. If it is a bad pump...should i have it rebuilt or order a remanufactured one off of rock auto?

I really hope this noise goes away after I put everything back together. The funny thing is...I never had a problem that would indicate it was the Power Steering Pump. It didn't struggle to turn...never made those typical noises that would lead you to believe it was the pump. BUT its the only thing left on the drive belt that hasn't been replaced with a new part. And the noise sounded like it was coming from that area (noise sounds exactly like a loose belt). BTW...I had the alt tested...it was fine. AC/Clutch Compressor...brand new and noise is NOT coming from it. The tensioner pulley is brand new (I thought it was this at first because i had a new belt and it made that "loose belt noise")

Please let me know if anyone has any suggestions.

thanks again guys.
 
#12 ·
Yes. I did start it without the belt on and it did not make the noise. It must be something on the drive belt. I've narrowed it down to the PSP. Its just weird...I've never heard that kind of noise coming from a bad one. It usually makes that grinding/low pitch noise. Not a high whining noise like its making.

A couple of other things I've noticed. The noise goes away after the car has been running for a while. its only when its cold do i hear it. Could it be just the pulley that the belt rides on?

This is so frustrating!
 
#13 ·
Many power steering pumps suffer from some form of "morning-sickness",and I've found a small bottle of Lucas p/s stop-leak to be helpful. That is,after flushing out the p/s system completely. Use a quality p/s fluid,never use ATF. I use/recommend Red-Line synthetic p/s fluid,but there are others.
 
#14 ·
Somebody Sticky the "Poor Mans Stethoscope"..

For the um-teenth time:

Get a wooden dowel / yardstick / piece of molding / etc. about 3 feet long.
(Wood is a pretty good insulator, so you don't get shocked. Use a light-weight piece of wood so when it gets caught by something spinnning (like the pullies/belt) it just snaps off without killing you.)

Open your hood and start the car.

Put one end of the 'stick' in the first joint of your thumb, and then close your fingers around your thumb and the stick.

Put your thumb-knuckle 'in' your ear, with the stick still in your hand.

Put the other end of the stick 'on' your motor/alt/PSP/tensioner/injectors/tranny/etc. and you can listen to the individual parts/bearings. This is because the sound vibrations travel up the stick better than they do thru the air and all the vibrations are not blending together.

D'oh: you want to put the 'motor' end of the stick on parts that ARE NOT MOVING. Like if you want to listen to the tensioner, you have to carefully place the end of the stick on the bolt head in the center of the pully - not on the spinning pully itself.

If it costs you a buck to try this, you probably over-spent.

HTH.

.
 
#15 ·
OP

it has been stated to use a "probe" either screw driver or wood dowel to listen to the spinning accessories JUST BE CAREFULL NOT STICKING IT ON MOVING PARTS. You can buy for like $3-$4 at harbor Freight a automotive stethascope (worth the $) which will greatly assist in pin pointing the source of noise.

just pulling the belt and spinning the accessories will most likely point out the issue.

Your problem "sounds" like one I had. Cold/morning starts a "chirp" sound until car got warmer and went away. It was the rear alternator bearing. This is a $6 part but has to be pressed in/out and alternator dissassembly is no big deal. youtube video shows how

on the electrical connector...you can buy tools to remove the pins at most auto parts stores in the help section or harbor freight.
 
#16 · (Edited)
My PS pump is screaming

PS pump is whining like a loose belt cwm4.

New alternator,
New belt,
new tensioner,
Pump fluid changed in 2013 and PS pump cooler added.
I've removed the belt started the car and have no noise.
I spun the A/C compressor and no sound.
The power steering pump pulley will not spin free like the alternator its actually kind restricted; a full 360 spin on its own is impossible without assistance. It has no wiggle.

I have no power steering pump leak and the steering pump is functioning without issue lock to lock while sitting and turning as needed while driving.

Fluid is still red but I'm not sure what kind of fluid the shop used in 2013 when they fixed a hose leak and put in the PS cooler.

Would a PS pump flush be in order or would the fact that the PS pulley being hard to turn mean the PS pulley bearings are shot?

This culminated over the last year starting out as a small whine in the morning that would go away as the car heated up and didn't return for the rest of the day.

I can't afford a pump rebuild from Lee.

Considering an ACdelco from RockAuto http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4985001&cc=1049701&jnid=488&jpid=1

or heck if my luck is like Larryfs I will more than likely go local http://www.autozone.com/suspension-...uralast-power-steering-pump/61125_35988_3508/

Thanks,

Will
 
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