How to replace CCM properly?

[Mr. Mann]

To replace the CCM in the trunk is very easy. Just depress the cable plugs and then unscrew the CCM from the back of the seat plate. The issue you will have is that the resistance of the CCM you are swapping in. If the resistance doesn't match your key's resistance then you're going to get the PASS KEY FAULT light every time. There's an easier way to handle the PKF issue but if you really need to swap the CCM it will be pretty tedious.

[94_Mike]

Somebody give me some hope on trying to fix this car. Here's the story. I had been looking for a 93-96 Fleetwood all around Orange County and Los Angeles. I finally found one with leather tan interior the way I wanted and a black paint. The radio didn't work and the top needs work but it didn't matter and I agreed on purchasing it for 3k, made by weekly payments of $500. Well, I failed to pay registration and I still haven't (I don't even want to think of the lates fees) due to the reason that it failed two smog checks, weeks after I brought it home.

Again I thought nothing of it as It could be something as simple as replacing the EGR, O2 Sensors or cat converters. Well then the transmission started slipping at 25mph. I have yet to take it to the shop for a diagnostics as I am short on money, on unemployment actually. And now, the inside windshield keeps fogging up and when I looked under the hood I saw tiny drops of coolant on top of the coolant reservoir. Among those issues, the pass key fault keeps going on, yet it isn't a major problem, back right window rolling down crooked and the level ride not adjusting the back height. And to top all that off, the car has a salvage title and the owner is always "too busy" to be on the phone. I live in Garden Grove, California. Orange County, if anybody knows any reliable shops or people. I might be making it worse by not being much of a mechanic myself but this is my true first car and I only know what I've learned so far on the internet, on forums such as these. I once thought the trunk motor needed replacing but it turned out to be a burnt fuse. Here are some pictures, of when I first got it in May of this year.

I like to think that it may seem hard at the moment as I am out of a job and this is my only car and got an ok car for the price.

[96 Black]

Picked up a totaled 15 year old mountain of GM iron with some problems did you? Meh, we all done it - more than once. As in Hitchhiker's Guide to the Universe, Don't Panic. Hit everything one at a time.

A few months ago i'da said hit the Search and you'll find a fix for everything you describe. None of it's rocket stuff, just a slog. I missed the mileage, but the interior and motor don't look beat up. Touch o paint and all better outside too.

I threw in some errent thoughts below on your probs, but I ain't there and you are. Good luck-keep asking but be specific for each thing you're hunting after. We're easily distractible. Distractable?

Originally Posted by 94_Mike

Somebody give me some hope on trying to fix this car. Here's the story. I had been looking for a 93-96 Fleetwood all around Orange County and Los Angeles. I finally found one with leather tan interior the way I wanted and a black paint. The radio didn't work and the top needs work but it didn't matter and I agreed on purchasing it for 3k, made by weekly payments of $500. Well, I failed to pay registration and I still haven't (I don't even want to think of the lates fees)

---yah, that will suck. Never screw with DMV, the world's future fascists-in-Training.

due to the reason that it failed two smog checks, weeks after I brought it home. Again I thought nothing of it as It could be something as simple as replacing the EGR, O2 Sensors or cat converters.

---well, what did the failure report(s) say, and don't they got waivers where you are?

Well then the transmission started slipping at 25mph. I have yet to take it to the shop for a diagnostics as I am short on money, on unemployment actually.

----no no no no - unless someone here can give you a specific on-car fix just let it fail and hit a junkyard or for sale section here. $125 tops used and you learn a lot putting it in

And now, the inside windshield keeps fogging up

-----could be a collapsed, broke vac hose, stuck plenum door, dirty vac actuator blockswitch

and when I looked under the hood I saw tiny drops of coolant on top of the coolant reservoir.

-----overfilled reservoir, or fans not turning on and getting hot - have you had the cooling sys open and not burped the bleeder?

Among those issues, the pass key fault keeps going on, yet it isn't a major problem, back right window rolling down crooked

----so what? - easy fix

and the level ride not adjusting the back height.

------yah common, lose it and get real shocks. get some old SS coils and/or Airlift 1000 to raise the level to your liking

And to top all that off, the car has a salvage title and the owner is always "too busy" to be on the phone.

------why you bothering him? he ain't the owner no more

I live in Garden Grove, California. Orange County, if anybody knows any reliable shops or people. I might be making it worse by not being much of a mechanic myself but this is my true first car and I only know what I've learned so far on the internet, on forums such as these. I once thought the trunk motor needed replacing but it turned out to be a burnt fuse.

-----now see? a shop would have been glad to replace your motor - for $100/hr plus msrp on the part - they would have thrown in the fuse free

Here are some pictures, of when I first got it in May of this year.

I like to think that it may seem hard at the moment as I am out of a job and this is my only car and got an ok car for the price.

---"ok price" is right!. everything above is cheap fix in today's money, just your time and some simple tools- even if you don't got a job and it's driveable you're doing pretty good there.

----hth - probably didn't

[94_Mike]

Originally Posted by 96 Black

Picked up a totaled 15 year old mountain of GM iron with some problems did you? Meh, we all done it - more than once. As in Hitchhiker's Guide to the Universe, Don't Panic. Hit everything one at a time.

A few months ago i'da said hit the Search and you'll find a fix for everything you describe. None of it's rocket stuff, just a slog. I missed the mileage, but the interior and motor don't look beat up. Touch o paint and all better outside too.

I threw in some errent thoughts below on your probs, but I ain't there and you are. Good luck-keep asking but be specific for each thing you're hunting after. We're easily distractible. Distractable?

Thanks for telling me that. The way I see it is, if I had a job, I would probably be spending more that I would on repairs, on a new stereo, wheels and unnecessary options. When I have the transmission rebuilt, if I have it rebuilt, I know it will be good, safe and will have warranty to back it up and won't have to worry about it for a while. It's not necessary like I'm throwing the money away. I would probably be doing the same if I was to buy a different Fleetwood, within time of owning it. I forgot to mention, I failed smog due to high NOx. I lowered it only a bit with additives and higher octane fuel.

About the transmission, I am still hoping it's something small. The reason I haven't taken for a diagnostics, being free, is because I want to have money ready in case it's something like the TCC. I've figured out I can save a lot of money by buying a rebuilt kit for $75 at AutoZone and taking it to a shop in L.A. that will work with it for $500, but that leaves me with the same problem I would have if I was to replace it with one of the junk yards, there's no warranty or guaranty it will work.

[cletus284]

No need to take a Fleetwood in for diagnostics, all codes for all systems can be read through the climate control display. Check it out: http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/cadidiag.html#95fltwd

As for the EGR, the tests for it are simple. First, with the engine idling, reach back and press the EGR diaphragm in. The engine should stumble severely. If it doesn't, the EGR passages in either the valve or intake are blocked with soot. Second, with the engine off, remove the vacuum supply hose from the EGR valve. Push up on the diaphragm and hold a finger over the vacuum port on the valve. When you release the diaphragm, it should stay put. If the valve closes, the EGR valve is shot.

As for the trans, what gear is it in when it slips? 25 MPH I would assume is right were it will shift to 3rd under light load. Its common for the 3-4 clutch pack to go out first. Have you checked the trans fluid level and condition? If its old, brown and burned smelling, your trans is gone south for sure. Beware the cheap rebuild, you get what you pay for.

[94_Mike]

Originally Posted by cletus284

No need to take a Fleetwood in for diagnostics, all codes for all systems can be read through the climate control display. Check it out: http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/cadidiag.html#95flt wd

As for the EGR, the tests for it are simple. First, with the engine idling, reach back and press the EGR diaphragm in. The engine should stumble severely. If it doesn't, the EGR passages in either the valve or intake are blocked with soot. Second, with the engine off, remove the vacuum supply hose from the EGR valve. Push up on the diaphragm and hold a finger over the vacuum port on the valve. When you release the diaphragm, it should stay put. If the valve closes, the EGR valve is shot.

As for the trans, what gear is it in when it slips? 25 MPH I would assume is right were it will shift to 3rd under light load. Its common for the 3-4 clutch pack to go out first. Have you checked the trans fluid level and condition? If its old, brown and burned smelling, your trans is gone south for sure. Beware the cheap rebuild, you get what you pay for.

The diagnostics is actually for the transmission not the vehicle. I'll try that EGR trick tomorrow afternoon. As for the slipping, it's when I start off slowly and hit 25mph, if I drive fast up to 25mph it will go fine in any gear. The car however runs fine in reverse, manual 1 and 2. The fluid is brown and doesn't really smell burnt, I will have to compare the smell of it to that of another. Here's some pictures and codes that I have:



00-46 .................................................. . Anti-Theft Pass Key signal was wrong
01-23 ............ Delayed Interior Light (DIL) enable circuit open or shorted to ground
01-45 ........................... Steering wheel sensor circuit open or shorted to battery