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#1
06-13-2012, 09:06 PM
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Gas gauge going crazy
So I just fired this thing up today for the first time in my ownership it had been sitting for 2 years before hand, changed oil, cleaned tank, new fuel pump, clean fuel injectors, new plugs and wires, new fuel filter, pcv valve, new air filter etc. The works. After a bit of blowing it out its idling fine and now IMMEDIATELY starts when I turn the key. It sounds ok, still needs alot of work but I can handle most of it my question is my thermostat hand never moved and my fuel gauge was going CRAZY like e to full and back in a fraction of a second about 20 times around the block. bled the system and tank and only refilled 4 gals so I expected it to be low but I have no clue what's going on. Been told it could be fuel pump or alternator but both are a pita so Id rather have a second opinion.
Thanks
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Yours may be bigger, badder, and cleaner than mine, but when you pop the trunk...... it says WX3! 
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#2
06-14-2012, 01:14 AM
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The sending unit in the gas tank probably is dirty from not being kept clean by fresh fuel and from sitting,deposits formed.Probably going to need to replace it.The newer replacement sending unit is a better construction and less prone to cause problems like this.
Thermostat sending unit might need to be replaced if the needle hasn't moved after 6 minutes.
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 95 9C1 Impala SS clone(mine), 95 SS BBB(wife's)-awaiting a transmission,then going up for sale, 08 Impala LS-wife's new DD. 2013 LISST PRESIDENT ISSCA #2134(Renew pending...when I feel like doing it finally.Just to satisfy the brown nosers.)
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#3
06-14-2012, 08:07 PM
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So its on e when car is on then goes to qtr tank when I turn it off. Pushing break pedal shoots the gushed to full?
__________________
Yours may be bigger, badder, and cleaner than mine, but when you pop the trunk...... it says WX3!
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#4
06-14-2012, 10:08 PM
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Check the ground. G200 at the base of the A pillar behind the kick panel.
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1991 OCC upgraded LO5, wrapped headers, dual Flowmasters, 3.23 posi, drop spindles & springs, Stainless full moons, 255/60/15 R, 215/70/15 F, Recaros, Nardi/MOMO SW w/QR, Pioneer DEH P77DH 1992 OCC now with 5.7 tbi For a parts list, check Plenty of good parts Old mechanic's saying: If it doesn't work, hit it with a hammer...if it still doesn't work, use a bigger hammer...if it breaks, it needed replaced anyway.
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#5
06-15-2012, 02:51 PM
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Everything under there is a mess of electric tape and I could only get half of it with the camera. Obviously someone did some redneck engineering. Is my 12 pin obd1 only suppossed to have 3 wires?
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Yours may be bigger, badder, and cleaner than mine, but when you pop the trunk...... it says WX3! Last edited by linkmrr; 06-15-2012 at 03:08 PM.
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#7
06-15-2012, 11:22 PM
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Quote:
__________________
1991 OCC upgraded LO5, wrapped headers, dual Flowmasters, 3.23 posi, drop spindles & springs, Stainless full moons, 255/60/15 R, 215/70/15 F, Recaros, Nardi/MOMO SW w/QR, Pioneer DEH P77DH 1992 OCC now with 5.7 tbi For a parts list, check Plenty of good parts Old mechanic's saying: If it doesn't work, hit it with a hammer...if it still doesn't work, use a bigger hammer...if it breaks, it needed replaced anyway.
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#8
06-16-2012, 12:51 AM
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I removed them then reattached guess I can tty to get a whole new ground wire. That's what you would conclude? When Car is in acc, and I press the brake it feels like the initial pressure push of the brakes shoots the gas gauge to full from e, let go of brake and it drops down to e. Turn car on and it and all my other gauges move slightly with brake applied, gas gauge flicks to about half during bumps and turns. When car turns off it used to go to qtr tank (after fully draining lines, tank and injectors) with roughly 4 gals of gas, added 2 more and now it lands at half tank when I turn car off.
Also another electrical question, car pushes engine code after running for a while and switching gears (didn't initially have a check engine light but after going maybe 10 feet in drive, reverse, and 1st light comes on, car has no tags and moving it around is only way to startup check light) so I go to check code and when I restart car engine light goes off. Tried jumping pins a and b, no light, remove jumper and light comes on until car is started. Any advice? I got it started in a week from an abused home and had been ditched for 2 years, its running like crap it would have to be pushing codes
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Yours may be bigger, badder, and cleaner than mine, but when you pop the trunk...... it says WX3! Last edited by linkmrr; 06-16-2012 at 12:54 AM.
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#9
06-16-2012, 07:42 AM
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You need to do some trouble shooting before you start replacing anything. I suggest that you get an FSM.
What year is your car? It makes a lot of difference. Your symptoms are from a broken wire, loose connector, worn insulation, or internal fault in a part. You can not tell without proper trouble shooting. It is a little complicated to do through the computer screen. It could be an internal issue with the cluster.
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1991 OCC upgraded LO5, wrapped headers, dual Flowmasters, 3.23 posi, drop spindles & springs, Stainless full moons, 255/60/15 R, 215/70/15 F, Recaros, Nardi/MOMO SW w/QR, Pioneer DEH P77DH 1992 OCC now with 5.7 tbi For a parts list, check Plenty of good parts Old mechanic's saying: If it doesn't work, hit it with a hammer...if it still doesn't work, use a bigger hammer...if it breaks, it needed replaced anyway.
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#10
06-16-2012, 07:57 AM
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Its a 95 REAL impala SS, from what I under stand is all gauges worked when car was parked. I have a hanes but need an FSM. Where's cheapest place to get it? Its strange how it doesn't seem like a electrical problem more like my brake pressure is linked to my gas gauge because the audible pressure of the breaks relieving is what shoots it to full, push brake slow gauge goes up slow, fast makes it shoot to top
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Yours may be bigger, badder, and cleaner than mine, but when you pop the trunk...... it says WX3! Last edited by linkmrr; 06-16-2012 at 08:00 AM.
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