EVAP Purge solenoid code 26

[ddeveloper]

@4DoorSS

Yeah that true about parts. You got to be smart about it. With the evap solenoid the delco ($22.00) was cheaper than the duralast and every mechanic I talk to says great things about those delcos.

[1slow96]

There are those who really likes AutoZone. There are many who don't,and for good reason. I've had more problems with them,and their products then all the other parts houses combined. There are many reputable places to purchase auto parts. AutoZone worked really hard to lose my business,they won't be getting it back.

[fbi9c1]

Originally Posted by ddeveloper

I have a question for you, where do you suggest to get the gas cap from (the gm dealer or some other off market storefront like autozone)?

I had to change my gas cap a couple of times because drivers sometimes leave the cap off in a gas station in another state.

I think I used a dealer the last time I needed one. I don't remember if it was this car or the Camaro. I tend to use NAPA and CarQuest when I need a parts store.

[Kilgore]

Originally Posted by fbi9c1

Have you replaced your gas cap? It's the most common cause of that code.

the gas cap looks good.

the reason I think it's NOT the gas cap is because when I filled up gas when I bought the car about 4 months ago, it smelled real strong which I've read a few times on my research over this damn code.

[1slow96]

I've had some success by removing the large o-ring from the gas cap. Then coating with dielectric grease,and re-installing. Doesn't take long,and costs almost nothing.

[ddeveloper]

Well I had 30 minutes to spear and took off my engine cover. I looked at the hose coming from the canister to the solenoid and it was cracked up like a 100 yr old witch's t1t. So I need some hose. Evidently, the hose is hard to come by, so I am going to try some spark plug boots (elbow and direct boots) because the grommet connected to the solenoid is cracked up.

Has anyone done this before? or have any tips?

[Eracer]

@dd. in a pinch you can use small diameter fuel hose with clamps for the elbow. Instead of a 90 degree bend, just make one loop like a coiled hard brake line.

@gramps, yeah the obd drive cycle is quite long. i.e. includes hiway speed for a short duration. Also couldn't hurt to make sure the entire evap system from canister to solenoid is free of charcoal.
http://www.obdii.com/drivecycle.html

[4DoorSS]

Originally Posted by ddeveloper

Well I had 30 minutes to spear and took off my engine cover. I looked at the hose coming from the canister to the solenoid and it was cracked up like a 100 yr old witch's t1t. So I need some hose. Evidently, the hose is hard to come by, so I am going to try some spark plug boots (elbow and direct boots) because the grommet connected to the solenoid is cracked up.

Has anyone done this before? or have any tips?

The spark plug boot is a pretty common fix for the elbow that connects to the throttle body port.

Not sure why you would have a difficult time finding the rest of the hose for the entire evap setup. It basically all consists of some hose, plastic tubing and the metal lines at the frame.

I replaced all of mine last fall including the plug boot mod. Just took some of the hose with me of each size to autozone and they have it on a spool. You cut what you need and pay per foot. Just be sure it is emission/fuel vapor hose. If you reuse the plastic tubing, be sure to check it for cracks and replace as needed.

[Rocko350]

Originally Posted by ddeveloper

I just joined and I have this code. I was wondering if there is a tutorial for this fix anywhere?

Knowledge that I've gained:
-The engine light only comes on because the system(voltage) has a cold start time limit before the CPU kicks in and starts dynamically reading values from the car's sensors. Basically it needs to warm up to ensure voltages across the system are at normal operation.
-The symptoms are air circulation problems. This may cause the engine and gas intake to skip (the car is coughing and not breathing correctly). This cause the engine to get out of rhythm.
- This part helps govern how the gas gets burned or use by the engine.
-I used turner pro rt and a hand made cpu interface to read my vehicle's CPU. So i can view all the inner workings while I drive with the help of my laptop & tuner pro rt.

ANY BACK TO MY QUESTION did you ever resolve this (yourself)? If so is there a tutorial/guide?

Thanks

Slow your roll dude.

OP ,check the solenoids resistance. I would bet you have a piece of charcoal from the canister stuck in the valve, and it hangs the valve causing the drive circuit to respond like it has a short circuit/overdraw. The obd1 pcm isnt capable of determining that kind of fault. Only that the circuit is non responsive(open) or shorted.

http://chevythunder.com/1994_lt1_ecm_schematic_pg_2.htm

Its for an F body, but it is still pertinant. Use a test light as a coil "stand in" and check the circuit at various spots. With the key on and engine off, backprobing the pin on the solenoid that the ecm grounds should make the solenoid activate and you should hear an audible click. If not, the coil is shorted or you have a bad connection in the circuit.

[ddeveloper]

DIAGNOSIS:
Bad EVAP solenoid which was personally checked by myself & TunerProRT. GM Dealer also confirmed it (while I was getting an oil change). He pointed out where to find the Evap Solenoid. They couldn't fix it at the time (blessing in disguise) because they didn't have the part. So sounds like a quick fix project. By the way they billed it as a ~$330 job.

BOOT FIX FOR SOLENOID END:
Bought L-Shape vacuuming tube and replace the detoriatted boot/grommet/sleeve/ ( whatever you call it). This works. I also cut the L Shape Vacuum Tube to fit.

SOLENOID (After market):
D%mned autozone duralast solenoid did not click correctly into the solenoid holding bracket. It was slightly off by really small measurements in different areas. That was enough for me to say "F it." So I took it back and ordered a AC DELCO. To the guys who said get delco, your wisdom is correct! Don't F around.

MATERIALS:

1. L-shape vacuum tube ( $3 - Autozone)
2. EVAP solenoid duralast ( $26 - Autozone - took this back - didn't snug correctly)
3. AC DELCO off the web for 22.99 with free shipping.

This job cost $26 Bucks within a time frame of 5 minutes. It actually does take 5 minutes or less.

Maybe I will put up my procedure later. I took pics as I did it. This was fun.