Chevy Impala SS Forum banner

t56 swap into 77-90 b body

17K views 37 replies 10 participants last post by  hotrodjunky1982 
#1 ·
Im going crazy. I have tried to find information on this swap. I remember years ago i found many articles and blogs. These days all I have come up with are dead links and pictures of cars that had it done with no technical info or pictures of the actual pedal placement, crossmember etc. Will the f2b kit fit my firewall? has anyone done this swap on a 77-90 "box" caprice. i would love to find some solid information. Im gearing up to do this and dont want to waste money on the wrong parts.
 
#4 ·
I have two stick '77 B bodies. Both are 2 doors. My Impala has a t-56 and my Caprice has a Super t-10. I used modified original brake pedals for the clutch and brake pedals. The brake pedal is stock on top and the bottom half is from a '91. The '91 pedal steps over toward the gas pedal more han the stock pedal but it is different on the top where it hangs. By using the stock pedal on top it fit right and the step to the left from the '91 pedal got it away from the clutch pedal. For the clutch pedal I hung the stoc brake pedal next to where it used to be and trimmed the foot pad to size. The top part where the bolt goes through needed to be trimmed also. This give you a set of pedals that are the right lenght and shape for the floor. Some of these "box" cars came with hydroboost brakes. I converted mine with factory parts. This gives a lot more room on the firewall to mount a clutch master cyl right next to the hydroboost unit. Both mine use a hydrolic throw-out bearing. The only real fab work is the pedals and a mount for the clutch master that piggy-backs on the hydroboost mount. Both of mine have been in service for 5 or 6 years. The hydroboost unit is available at any parts store or a yard. same with the powersteering pump and related hoses.
 
#5 ·
Impala77: That's a good idea on the pedals. What are you using for the trans crossmember?
 
#11 ·
The camaro oil pan is the same profile, but actually better for a swap application, because it doesn't have the stupid low oil switch that the b body lt1s have.
 
#13 ·
new pictures!! engine is out of the f body cradle and is now in the caprice, bolted down awaiting crossmember install. rough cut the shifter hole...almost done!!!

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

Attachments

#17 ·
#18 ·
hotrod..

just wire the reverse lock out tou your brake pedal switch. That way it will activate when you have your foot on the brake and you won't have to fight getting into reverse. You can, IIRC, remove it but IMHO slaming gears at high RPM and going to 5th....you really don't want to buzz reverse.
 
#19 ·
maybe stock is different? i have the whole hurst short throw setup. (installed before i bought it) 1-6 gears are real close, but reverse requires an extra throw right that feels tightly sprung.(like the way shifting into reverse or low gear with the ZF 6spd found in HD Ford pickups) i understand what youre saying about hitting R when going for 5th, it just seems like with the hurst short throw set up it wpuldnt be a problem.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
#20 ·
if the reverse lockout solonoid is not activated (like on a F-body it opens under 3mph and on my set up I have it wired to brake pedal) it will be hard to "push" the shifter over manually to engage reverse. It can be done but will take "effort".

And yes without the solonoid wired it will be harder to buzz reverse if shifting into 5th. I now remember when I experienced this my solonoid was "on" all the time so it was very easy to miss shift and buzz reverse. closed I doubt that would be a issue.

In any event I would, and did, wire it to the brake pedal switch just to be able to shift into reverse easily. Simple wiring job, just ran wire up from tunnel to the brake switch under dash at base of brake pedal.

Also not sure what your pedal set up is but I also maintained the nuetral safety switch requireing clutch pedal to be depressed to start the car. Like the switch says, more of a "safety" thing.
 
#23 · (Edited)
as for the neutral safety switch... i havent got there yet. i may do some stealth hidden ****. any ideas?

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
I got the switch to do the clutch switch, but frankly the aftermarket ones are pretty crappy. The one I went to install on my f-body pedals fell apart in my hands when trying to snap it in. The plastic housing was weaker than the 10 ga wires going to it. I want to say it was a Wells.... but could be wrong. At any rate I got a different brand, but it looked like the same part in a different box. I didn't want to have to override the switch if it failed some day so I just did without it. I was the only one driving the car.

As for the reverse lockout, i just dimpled the floor and ran it. I wired it to an open pin on my brake switch, so I had to tap the brake to activate the solenoid. Worked very well, you usually have your foot on the brake anyway. I did without it for a short time, but I rather have the solenoid.
 
#22 ·
my pedal assembly is a hybrid made by BBHP (no longer in biz) which just had the provision to mount the neutral safety switch used on the gen 4 F-body. It is just a rectangle button switch the clutch pedal arm contacts and depresses when the clutch is pushed in.

You could rig up any kind of switch if you wanted this feature for "safety" or a form of kill switch so someone could not start your car without knowing wtf if that is your intent

on the reverse lock out, if you like the stiff resistance of getting into reverse without activateing the solonoid, fine. May put more stress/wear on the ball socket of shifter over time. Not sure why you don't want it to work but by wiring it to the brake pedal you essentially have the same thing going on while you drive. It would take the same force to push over to reverse "accidentially" as it would any time you try and get reverse intentially without a active solonoid. If wiringing to brake switch it only works when you push the brake. For me a natural action when I am stopped and putting the car in reverse. But some don't so whatever works for you
 
#30 ·
For the rubber "bump stop" on top of the trans, pull the two bolts holding the piece on and pull it off, that is all that should be needed to remove. Since the trans is in the car you will have to lower it down enough to get to the bolts.
 
#33 ·
I like the mod on your crossmember. It looks like a CIA piece. The angle iron helps to locate it further back like the '94-'96 frame. The crossmember in mine is crap. It is a custom piece I had made for my Impala when I put the t-56 in. I dont think my drive line angle is right and it flexes too much. After 30,000 miles I have a vibration at speeds over 60 mph. My trans is about as tight to the floor as possible. I have not yet removed the rubber bump on top but it is touching or very close to it. How high does your crossmember mount the trans? I think the shifter plate on mine is even with the sheetmetal.
 
#36 ·
Bow tie Overdrive makes the tublar x member for 94-96 B-Body and sell for $175 ish. You can buy direct from them and it is the one I have that was part of my BBHP conversion back in 05.

also I don't have the rubber bump stop and my tranny is about 1/4" away from top of tunnel with tranny/shifter sticking up into the interior about 1/2" at the rear of the shifter. Also have two "GM" spacers between the tranny mount and tranny.

each car will be diffrent on needs of shims for correct DL angle so you just have to measure with a angle finder
 
#34 ·
mine is 1/2-1" into the cabin. i removed the bumper(just barely touching,or not) the crossmber is TIGHT. i couldnt go any higher, and i hope i dont have to go lower bc i really cant.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

Attachments

#35 ·
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top