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#1
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yeah something like that. It's really hard to describe what this is so hopefully pictures help.
Driver side door go all the way to the bottom edge. There is a bolt there that holds on the exterior (I call it a rock guard) part to the door. Mine flops around (which I think may be the "clinking" noise I hear going over bumps, no it's not the sway bar links, entire front end suspension has less than 1K on it) Anywho, I need to know where I can get the rubber/plastic nut that fits on this thing. From looking at the passenger side door, I don't see how it comes out, or how one would put a replacement part in. Any advice welcome. ![]() Here is where it is at on the door. ![]() Here is the passenger door, it's got like a dome top to it.
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1994 SS - GRAIL President & Webmaster, St. Louis, MO
View our Tech/Guide page for everything from your basic oil change to Manual transmission swaps! ![]() |
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#2
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It is a stamped steel castle nut. If the post is broken, you have to remove the whole trim part, and you can replace the fastener. I do not know where you can get one, except at a junk yard. The size of the wrench is 11mm. I may have some. $3 for 2 shipped. Shipping is more than the part.
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1991 OCC upgraded LO5, wrapped headers, dual Flowmasters, 3.23 posi, drop spindles & springs, Stainless full moons, 255/60/15 R, 215/70/15 F, Recaros, Nardi/MOMO SW w/QR, Pioneer DEH P77DH 1992 OCC now with 5.7 tbi For a parts list, check Plenty of good parts Old mechanic's saying: If it doesn't work, hit it with a hammer...if it still doesn't work, use a bigger hammer...if it breaks, it needed replaced anyway. |
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#3
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Fred, do I just grab on to the stub that is left say with vice grips and try to twist it off of there?
__________________
1994 SS - GRAIL President & Webmaster, St. Louis, MO
View our Tech/Guide page for everything from your basic oil change to Manual transmission swaps! ![]() |
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#4
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Once you take both the front and rear castle nuts off, the trim is held on by three pins spaced about equidistantly apart. You can pull the end of the panel about an inch away from the door, and put a body panel tool under the head of the pins to pry them out. Do not pull on the stud, it will damage the trim.
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1991 OCC upgraded LO5, wrapped headers, dual Flowmasters, 3.23 posi, drop spindles & springs, Stainless full moons, 255/60/15 R, 215/70/15 F, Recaros, Nardi/MOMO SW w/QR, Pioneer DEH P77DH 1992 OCC now with 5.7 tbi For a parts list, check Plenty of good parts Old mechanic's saying: If it doesn't work, hit it with a hammer...if it still doesn't work, use a bigger hammer...if it breaks, it needed replaced anyway. |
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#5
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Found it. I'm missing one too. I didn't look over your recent complete front-end rebuild thread again, but worn A-arm bushings are a good source of a bump-clink (more typically a bump-thump) issue unless you replaced all those too.
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. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . "Oh Bob, It's So Big And Long!" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . \'96 BBB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, SLP SS, 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear) \'95 FTSS: total mono gray, SSRI, Anthony tune, Aero catback/H/resonators, SS bars and coils, Hotchkis LCAs, Bilsteins/Airlift 1000, NL rear discs |
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