How do you safely remove the chrome rocker panels all around our cars? I want to take them off so i can replace some the plastic pieces that have broken. I dont want to break the clips that hold them on because they seem to be hard to come by. Thanks in advance
I have a 96 fleetwood i am parting out, the rear quarter mouldings are allready off..so i can show you how they go on...If yoy happen to need some clips..if i can get them off..I will help you. These older fullsized are getting hard to find anything for these days.
That was a perfect explanation! Thank you so much, I will pop them off tonight after work and see why they are rattling. If i do need some clips how much would you charge for some? And how much would you let go of the plastic trim on the drivers door chrome and on the passenger side front bumper for?
No problem to help....I am going to pull all the trim off before the car goes sometime next week...after i pull the motor/trans and harness out for my 88 monte carlo LS LT1 swap...
I will make you a super deal if you need them...just let me know what ones you need.
the quarter panels are marked 7 and 8 on the clips themselves..Glad someone can use some pieces...
Thats gonna be a badass monte, these motors are something else. And I will definatly let you know tonight. Im almost positive I want those plastic trim pieces i was talking about though and I can send you pics if you dont know which ones im refering to. Name me a price for these parts
*plastic trim pieces^
*Plastic trim around liscense plate if its in good shape
*front door panel wood pieces with the tweeters and lock buttons
*one plastic/wood door pull (best one lol)
*chrome spears if CoupeDTS doesnt want them and they are in good shape
*climate control display/control panel above radio if it looks good
*and some 1 of those lumbar control button covers CoupeDTS was talking about
some of the panels have bolts and screws on them. The quarter rockers latch on the top and bottom and are most likely to fall off. The front rockers by the bumper have a bolt behind the belt trim into the fender along with screws along the wheel well. Door ones have screws around them as well as latched with the rocker clips.
To get the black clips off some will have either a screw or bolt like coupedts said. For the white clips, you can find a screw that will thread into the small round "pin" in the middle, and then use the screw to pull it out. The other option is punching them in but then you gotta find the pins in the door, rear 1/4 panels etc. Then the rest of the clip stays in the in the black piece and it gently pulls out of the car. The main thing is the spring things at the bottom. I've been told you pretty much have to put a screw in the rocker if you have subs.
Yeah my subs are rattling the panels like crazy. I took the panels off and the clips look fine but I need to find a way to isolate then from the quarter panel. Has anyone done this before and have any ideas?
I tried dynamat to no avail. A buddy of my put a screw in his in the bottom corner and it was great but I just haven't been able to bring myself to put a screw in it. One of the guys at spade kreations said his wife and son drove fleets and he had to put screws in theirs.These were the only places my car rattled. I'm sure there is a better way though.
Too bad the dynamat doesnt work that would be the easiest way. I might try the screw if I can find a way to do it discretly I would definatly like to avoid drilling into the panles thoughcwm6
Look at the bottom of the rocker panel it curves around into a c. If you just straighten out one little tab of that curled up stainless you would then have a piece to put a screw through that isn't on the regular rocker panel surface that you see. The tops should hold good enough otherwise I've seen ones at the junkyard they used black screws into the belt trim on the rocker then you could paint that trim black so the screw wouldn't be very noticeable.
how loose should the quarter rocker panel be? i tried taking mine off and only half of i came loose. im sacred to pull on it too much and break it. put it back and its a little loose at the bottom. didnt notice if it was like that before i messed with it.
Instead of the screw, use some velcro with sticky backing. put one half on the body, and half on the trim. When you stick them together it should stop rattling.
Mine doesnt move at all from the bottom. I would do like Fred said and try some velcro. If that doesnt work consider putting a screw threw it in a descret place.
It is not cheap but is good enough for FAA aircraft panel retention. I am working on a way to use it to retain door panels. There are many different kinds for indoor, outdoor, both high heat, high humidity...sounds like our summer, eh? Pay attention to the height (thickness) of the two pieces so it is not too thick, or if you have to build up a mounting surface first. The surface MUST be clean to adhere. 3M makes a surface cleaner...check it out.
It is not cheap but is good enough for FAA aircraft panel retention. I am working on a way to use it to retain door panels. There are many different kinds for indoor, outdoor, both high heat, high humidity...sounds like our summer, eh? Pay attention to the height (thickness) of the two pieces so it is not too thick, or if you have to build up a mounting surface first. The surface MUST be clean to adhere. 3M makes a surface cleaner...check it out.
I've used 3M Dual Lock on some things over the years, mostly work-related where I wasn't paying for the stuff.
It's not uncommon for Dual Lock to stick together and peel the mounting adhesive away from whatever it was stuck to. Of course you need perfectly clean surfaces to mount, but even then, it takes kind of a peeling action to get Dual Lock apart. For that reason, I personally would think twice about using it on trim that requires a push sideways to release clips, formed lips/catches, etc.
I recall 3M having a recommendation for using one strip of Dual Lock with a strip of the loop-side of their more common hook and loop material (a.k.a. "Velcro"). That might work better here, but I haven't tried that combination myself.
I was on ALLDATA today at school and there was actually a technical service bulletin in 96 about the stainless panels not fitting flush against the body and rattling. It instructed dealerships to remove the plastic rub strips and put a shallow screw through the stainless panels and the body to secure it firmly and then put the rub strip back on with 3M trim tape. Just thought that was interesting.
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