putting an lt1 together, just wondering. when running an electric waterpump, can i leave the waterpump drive out and put a plug in the timing cover? would it be that easy
You don't even need to put a plug in the timing cover.
That way, if, for some reason, you decide to go back to the mechanical water pump, you've saved yourself twice the effort.
I only modified a single water pump housing to accept Meziere water pumps. I saved the splined pump drive coupler [in the glove box], and did nothing whatsoever to the front cover.
Works like a charm; I can use either an electric or a mechanical water pump with the minimum possible additional fuss.
But just to be clear:
I couldn't have possibly done less work to convert to an electrical water pump.
I did not make any changes to the front cover whatsoever. I did not make any changes to anything behind the front cover whatsoever. Neither is necessary.
Bonus: If at any time I want [or need] to go back to using the mechanically driven water pump, I simply remove the electrical pump, and replace it with the mechanical one.
(Oh, I forgot. I did install some of Gary's Innovative Wiring.)
To me, it sounds like you want to create extra work, but to each their own.
The only thing I made any changes to was the water pump housing, so it would accept the Meziere WP118HD.
not extra work because like i posted im putting a motor together..
thinking to leave it out, as to not having it doing nothing. it would be even easyer to swap out the electric pump than the whole housing
but i see where it would be alot of work if you dont have the motor apart already
to tell you the truth i didnt give that much thought. i was just gonna use a stock chain and gears. but i think the keyway is in a different spot on an lt1. not sure though
I guess one of the benefits of totally deleting it would be the elimination of the WP drive seal. Just one less potential oil leak spot to worry about (especially since it's over the opti).
It won't fit a '96 with the CPS because of the reluctor wheel, but I was converting to OBD 1 anyway so I just removed it all together, didn't have to clearance the cover either but I've read that others have. Kinda like most of the other stuff for our cars, some people have it fit perfect and others need to 'fine tune' to fit.
It won't fit a '96 with the CPS because of the reluctor wheel, but I was converting to OBD 1 anyway so I just removed it all together, didn't have to clearance the cover either but I've read that others have. Kinda like most of the other stuff for our cars, some people have it fit perfect and others need to 'fine tune' to fit.
I have a 1994 LT1. I'm intalling the same timing set set (Cloyes 9-3145), because it's strongest and the price is way less than the LT4 extreme duty timing set. I'm using the Meziere 118 water pump and a HOT cam. I will probably be abusing the engine after it's all put together.
How did you plug the water pump drive hole in the timing cover?
I don't see where that was answered in this thread. Perhaps you can quote it to me.
My timing cover is 1200 miles away. If I had it here, I could determine what might fit or make something to fit. So, I was asking to find what size freeze or welch plugs will fit the timing cover.
I have read that 5/8" dia. is too small and 11/16" dia. is too large. (Is 16 mm just right)?
But it appears that people are trying to plug the shaft hole, not the seal hole. It seems that it would be easier to put a freeze plug into the seal bore. My water pump drive shaft seals are down there too. I don't know the dimensions of the seal (OD & thickness) to size freeze plug for that bore.
I prefer to not weld or epoxy the waterpump drive hole shut. I just don't want to do it that way.
I have my brother-in-law looking for the timing cover, so he can send it to me.
I don't have anyone that can weld for me there. My welder is here (former co-worker).
Im getting ready to do the same thing. The timing chain set-up for a Lt1 Is not all that cheap. Going with a double roller and a electric WP. Im sure I can fiind a freeze plug that size. No point in leaving te gear set-up behind there. Just another gasket to leak all over the opti!!!!
(no fees or shipping).
or 9-3157, which is the same as the GMPP ED timing set, without the pump drive.
These part numbers are the "race" versions. They cost more, but are made w/ better materials than the "street" versions (9-1145 & 9-1157). The 9-3157 & 9-1157 are 1/2" pitch heavy duty single roller. Should be no clearance issues at all. This is adequate for the swap.
The stock timing set should be adequate if you almost never snap the throttle shut, otherwise use the race version(s).
The closet water pump drive hole plug that I found to fit the large opening is: Dorman 555-022
1-7/32" dia. Steel 0.500" thk 1.222" closed end dia., 1.235" open end dia. It is a little too thick, but is the closest size.
or this plug: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-97...-/330609726878 I haven't gotten either plug, yet. I can't test fit any plugs that I might buy (no timing cover handy). I have a new seal that I have using as a reference for size.
Anyone know if the 9-3157 timing set will work on 96 lt1's in particular?
I know they will clear the timing cover but I'm more concerned with if the crank sprocket is the same thickness as the original lt1 factory sprocket so that the crank reluctor is still in the proper position in front of it to be picked up properly by the crank position sensor.
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