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Old 09-21-2009, 07:29 PM
Moparman Moparman is offline
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Default Door panel removal and window roller fix PICS

Here are the pictures for the panel removal.

Quickly, to remove the panel:

- remove screws from door pull, arm rest, handle/lock bezel, and lower corner door panel.
- pop out the handle/lock bezel, (put Lock down first, a little easier) by pulling from the middle and squeezing it out
- using the panel removal tool, pop off the panel fasteners (there are 5 on the rear door, not sure on the front)
- disconnect the power window and the light connectors
- now the panel essentially is to be angled up at the bottom and pushed upwards at the top to remove the panel, as there is a downward lip that hooks behind the door metal by the window's edge. It's a little tricky because there are two holes that may snag it; if it's hanging up, look along that top edge with a light and push the part of the panel that is catching in there inwards to release it. Then push up, and it should come off.

To fix the rollers, these are the quick tips:
- drill out the pop rivets for the armrest support and the rivet at the back of the roller channel.
- the end of the roller channel is slightly crimped together; undo this with whatever tools you can so you can get the roller in
- position the roller in the channel, and then pop the stud into it using vice-grips.
- pop rivet things back in place.


Screws inside the armrest need to come out, as well as the door pull and behind the door latch.



I almost missed the screw hidden away here.



Disconnect both connectors for the power window switch and the door light.




Here is the door after the panel is removed. You can see the five white clips are still in the door. I worked my fingers under the panel to pop it free, and then used the tool to remove the little clips from the door.



That D-shaped hole at the top is where the top lip can hang up. Just use a screwdriver to poke it back and then lift up the top of the panel.



There's the broken slider. The rivet that is visible is NOT the one that needs to be removed, but is hidden by the right half of the broken slider.



Poor picture of lining up the stud to go into the new roller, inserted into the channel.



Pop rivet the armrest support back in place.



Put the five panel retainer clips into the panel, reconnect the wires, and then you slide the top lip down next to the window glass, and line up the retainers with the holes in the door.

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'93 Roadmaster wagon, 3.23 and posi. All stock except for Monroe SS shocks, WS6 front sway bar and Crown Vic bolt-on rear bar. AC Delco O2 sensor and spark plugs - MANDATORY! And now new GM rear LCAs and steering shaft. Air Lift 1000s installed. Also new center link and idler arm for MUCH less wander. Tie rods. Steering box adjusted for bearing preload and sector shaft interference.

** For sale in exchange, power vent windows and motors for wagon.

Last edited by Moparman; 09-22-2009 at 08:46 AM.
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Old 09-22-2009, 12:40 PM
Moparman Moparman is offline
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(sorry for the duplicate posts - can the mods delete them?)
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'93 Roadmaster wagon, 3.23 and posi. All stock except for Monroe SS shocks, WS6 front sway bar and Crown Vic bolt-on rear bar. AC Delco O2 sensor and spark plugs - MANDATORY! And now new GM rear LCAs and steering shaft. Air Lift 1000s installed. Also new center link and idler arm for MUCH less wander. Tie rods. Steering box adjusted for bearing preload and sector shaft interference.

** For sale in exchange, power vent windows and motors for wagon.
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Old 09-22-2009, 01:59 PM
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I just did this on Sunday.

It is not necessary to drill out the rivets. You can bend out the lip of the channel. The rollers do not go all the way to the ends of the channel, so you're safe to leave them that way.

So long as you have the door disassembled, replace both rollers. If one has gone, the other may not last much longer.
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Old 09-22-2009, 02:07 PM
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Also, for the 1994 RMW, there were no screws in the arm rest. But there were screws behind the ends of the grab strap. Pop out the ends of the grab strap to expose the screws.

My screws were posidrive. The phillips screwdriver didn't fit right. Fortunately, I still had posidrive bits in the back of the toolbox.
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Old 09-22-2009, 03:18 PM
Moparman Moparman is offline
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I did try just bending the channel where it was pinched in. Mine were still getting hung up on that rivet. I guess try opening the channel first, then remove rivet if need be.
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'93 Roadmaster wagon, 3.23 and posi. All stock except for Monroe SS shocks, WS6 front sway bar and Crown Vic bolt-on rear bar. AC Delco O2 sensor and spark plugs - MANDATORY! And now new GM rear LCAs and steering shaft. Air Lift 1000s installed. Also new center link and idler arm for MUCH less wander. Tie rods. Steering box adjusted for bearing preload and sector shaft interference.

** For sale in exchange, power vent windows and motors for wagon.
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Old 09-22-2009, 04:10 PM
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any 1 know the part number for the roller guides
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Old 04-09-2010, 12:10 PM
Rumble 96SS Rumble 96SS is offline
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Thanks for the write up and pictures. I will be doing this in a couple of weeks at LISST mod day.

Tim
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Old 07-15-2010, 02:21 PM
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i CAN NOT get the rollers on the tits... any ideas?
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Old 07-15-2010, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96dreamss View Post
any 1 know the part number for the roller guides
dorman part number 74444, i believe. may need to add another 4 to that if 74444 isn't it
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Old 07-15-2010, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KamD450 View Post
i CAN NOT get the rollers on the tits... any ideas?
i use channel locks
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