LS3 or Lt1

[Bowties4life]

I've had my 96 ss for two months now. I called a shop and ask them if they could build my Lt1 and ad a supercharger. He told me that the Lt1 ones are not worth that they are junk. He told me that they have Ls3 and it is much better and the price tag is
$10,000 plus 5,500 for supercharger. I want to get your guys
opinion. Save money and build the Lt1 for or get the Ls3 either way i want the supercharger on it.. Looking to push 600 to 700hp at the wheels. I also was looking at the new 6 speed auto from GM. It say it could hold up to 800hp with that be strong enough for what i want or go with what it has now of course built or 6 speed manual. The reason i like the 6 speed is for the low rpm's it will give me on the freeway at crusing speed. Last the what gear's should i go with 3:73's or what it has now. I want good low end and good top end best of both world's. Want to haul ass stop light to stop light but also if i'm on a long streatch of road want to open her up and just floor it and see what will my top speed will be. Gve are you feedback alot of money will be put into my baby don't to over spend if i don't need to thanks.

[nomrlz]

LS3's are far and away better than the LT1. do you already have stuff done to your impy? that might be the deciding factor. you gotta buy headers, cold air, cam, etc anyway. might as go with an LS platform. i think ten grand is a bit steep for an LS3 unless it is built tho

[96lsxss]

Do a 6.0 truck engine, build it to a 408, and save some money... the ls3/6l90 require different standalone computers to work, not worth it in my opinion

[Navy Lifer]

If you've got the budget, do the LS3, supercharged or not, with the 6L transmission--and 3.73 should be "perfect", since first gear is REALLY deep on that trans, so your stoplight-to-stoplight "leaving" rate will be outstanding--4.02 x 3.73 = 14.99:1 - as long as you can hook it up!

By comparison, 4L60 with 4.56 = 13.96:1

[Bowties4life]

Yes the LS3 it built for what i want it for and it comes with all the
Wiring hardness and computer.

[Leadfoot]

If that price includes "everything", and I mean everything, computer, programming, re-trofitting wiring, so everything works, 700 hundred at the wheels, etc. And, you have the money, from my experience with my weak, little stroker, I'd say go for it.

But, be advised, I would bet you will spend way more than that.

[Navy Lifer]

GM Introduces New E-ROD Crate Engine Package for Classic Cars

$9375 "list" price....wonder what it will sell for bottom line? Starting to look VERY attractive. And "classic" cars could easily include our 13+ year old cars that are actually based on a 1970-73 chassis design.....

Here is what is included in the standard LS3 E-ROD kit:

GM PN 19244805
* 6.2-liter LS3 crate engine, rated at 430 horsepower and 424 lb.-ft. of torque
* GMPP LS3 engine wiring harness
* GMPP engine control module
* Exhaust manifolds
* Catalytic converters
* Oxygen sensors and sensor bosses
* Fuel tank evaporative emissions canister
* Mass airflow sensor and sensor boss
* Accelerator pedal (for use with the LS3’s electronic throttle)
* Air filter
* Instruction manual

[ProTools4]

that package is nice

This


plus this TVS 2300


add these passetters


Equal 550RWHP all day long!
this is out shop LS3 G8 test car with parts as mentioned


You might want a buget for fuel system, more tires, and tickets

[nomrlz]

Originally Posted by Bowties4life

Yes the LS3 it built for what i want it for and it comes with all the
Wiring hardness and computer.

i have heard of guys buying stock LS3's for as low as $6000 and usually around 8. so if it is a stock complete LS3. ten grand wouldn't have been so attractive. after seeing hot rod mag test some comp cams on a truck 6.0L with LS3 heads ($525/ea from scoggin-dickey) and getting killer power. i'm sold on this type of build

[SSandman]

(rolls eyes). OK...for 600-700RWHP I think LS is the way to go....


BUT, you DO realize that 600-700rwhp you are going to be getting smoked by 14 second hondas in stoplight to stoplight encounters, right? How the HELL are you going to put down 700rwhp on the street? You're just going to blow expensive tires right off the car. Unless you plan on doing an adjustable 4 link, back halfing it for some 33" slicks ect...

Don't take this the wrong way, but If I could save you money and still keep you happy with your car that would be a good thing. You can build a nice, solid 11 second LT1 B body for not a ridiculous amount of cash. Something like that would still have trouble putting the power to the ground on the street, but it would be much easier and if set up right would still blow the doors of most the stuff you come across. Gotta realize that on the street, those ridiculously high hp levels just become useless in 0-60 or 70mph encounters especially when putting the power into cars like the ones we build with no huge tires, no drag suspensions ect... I work with some pretty talented builders, the one thing I always hear day in and day out is you're better off with a 500hp car that can use all 500 horses than a 700hp car that can't.

We get a lot of guys that think they want race car power, but don't really want a race car. maintenance, risk of breaking ect... We build these carbbed 900hp monsters with double pumpers, high compression ect... and then the owners get pissed off when they are fouling plugs left and right because they take a race motor and putter around in traffic all day with it...or they get pissed when they have to have the valve lash adjusted often. Now some of these things you don't need to worry about with late model power and forced induction, but still...700whp isn't something you can just own/drive/beat the snot out of and never have to worry about.

Wish you could take a ride in Dwaynes 11 second caprice or KW's 11 second Impala...probably enough to scare the crap out of you on the street... Be shocked when you find out it's only a measly, weak <440hp to the wheels