I'm a former member of the no heat club

[iowaSSfan]

Originally Posted by SimplyTheBeSS

Yeah I need to remove my knock sensors but I'm concerned about breakin em off too. If you destroy the sensor are they easy to replace?

Same boat as you. You see this thread yet?

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=255732

[61bbltop]

The knock sensors came out pretty easy. I used a 1/2 drive 7/8 socket (I think) with some extensions with a universal just before the socket to reach the things. You kind of have to come from below or in between the upper & lower "A" arms to get a good line on them.

They are about $35 each at Autozone.

You really should flush the block...soooo much rusty crap came out of mine!

[4DoorSS]

Originally Posted by SimplyTheBeSS

Yeah I need to remove my knock sensors but I'm concerned about breakin em off too. If you destroy the sensor are they easy to replace?

Definitly pull those and drain the block. I just pulled mine again and with the water pump off and warm weather, I decided to push the car outside last weekend and REALLY flush it out. I sprayed the hose right into the front WP ports on the block and let it flush out for a few minutes. Then loosly installed the sensor to let the block fill up, pull the sensor to let it "dump" out again and did this a few times. Now she is nice and clean with no worries of any old junk going into my new heater core when I install it.

This is still very fresh in my mind, to pull the sensors, I just used a 1/2" rachet with a 22mm socket and a few extensions. I got to both of them from the bottom with the starter still installed. On the drv side I just used a straight extension coming up from the bottom at a 45drgree angle that lines up perfectly to the sensor housing lid. On the pass side, I needed to use a universal joint too up by the socket since the angle is off slightly. Just be sure you do your best to keep the socket squarely on the Sensor lid. there is not much of a bolt top on these sensors so it's very easy to have the socket slip off unless you are squarely on top of it.

Quick tip - If the sensors seems to give you any trouble backing out, try to turn them in a little first and then try to back them out.

[SimplyTheBeSS]

Originally Posted by 4DoorSS

Quick tip - If the sensors seems to give you any trouble backing out, try to turn them in a little first and then try to back them out.

Ahh like a plumbing fitting. Okay. I have flushed out my core a few times and flushed twice and replaced the waterpump and all of the hoses but never knew about the knock sensors until after that was all done. I had great heat for a month or so but now it's back to be sucky and I can only imagine that the junk in the bottom of the block has moved around and is clogging the core again. I'll do it the right and complete way as soon as there is a nice day and it's not blowing 30+ mph winds.

[iowaSSfan]

Did a complete flush on mine today. Knock sensors came out without a problem. Still think I have air in the system to bleed but ran out of time today.
Does anyone know where the low coolant light gets its reading? I was assuming it was the sensor in the bottom of the resevoir. My resivoir is full but the low coolant light is on. Any suggestions?

[61bbltop]

I'm thinking it is what the small plug is about under your reservoir. When I had my reservoir out, I could hear the float sliding back and forth when I shook it. Mine worked fine but I replaced the tank because it was yellowed and getting brittle.

Your float might just be stuck because of all the accumulated rusty gunk in the tank. I used a combination of bleach water-pressure washer & shaking crushed ice in the tank…not all at once. Pull your tank and shake it. If you can’t hear the float flop around, that’s your problem.

[iowaSSfan]

Originally Posted by 61bbltop

I'm thinking it is what the small plug is about under your reservoir. When I had my reservoir out, I could hear the float sliding back and forth when I shook it. Mine worked fine but I replaced the tank because it was yellowed and getting brittle.

Your float might just be stuck because of all the accumulated rusty gunk in the tank. I used a combination of bleach water-pressure washer & shaking crushed ice in the tank…not all at once. Pull your tank and shake it. If you can’t hear the float flop around, that’s your problem.

Where did you find a new tank? Mine is yellowed as well but was planning on painting it. I will have to shake/whack it and see if the float comes loose. It worked before the flush so shaking it clean must have got it stuck. You know if the float/sensor can be replaced or if I have to get a whole new tank?

[61bbltop]

I got it at the NAISSO Superstore. I also replaced the cap as you should replace every few years. My engine compartment looked virtually brand new aside from the coolant tank...now she looks prestine! Here's the link

http://impalasuperstore.com/supersto...g+System+Parts

[iowaSSfan]

Gave the tank a couple smacks and must of freed up the float because the light shut off.

[61bbltop]

iowaSSfan,

I've checked out your interior & trunk threads...just buy a new tank! You've done such a clean job on the rest it's a shame to have yellowed/stained stuff under the hood...don't just paint it.

IMHO, clean new windshield washer & coolant reservoir plus stock decals will make your engine bay look factory fresh. I think it makes any CAI & other bay mods look even cleaner.

Also, we in the motorcycle world use a product called S-100 that you spray your engine & wires to give them a clean black look. Its water repellant and lasts a long time. You can also use tire foam...it gets into all the nooks & crannies. Just wait a day or so to hose off the compartment, then do a thorough wipe down. NOTE #1: I use a leaf blower to dry the motor with it running. NOTE # 2: I always stuff rags above the Optispark to prevent intrusion...don't forget to remove

There is probably a thread on here that covers engine bay cleaning but that's how I've been doing it for years and it works for me.