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#1
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So I have been having a no heat, engine overheating issue with my car since we had a week long freeze. I don't drive my car in the winter unless it's a nice dry day. So I decided to start up the car and let it run for awhile when I noticed my temp gauge starting to peg and ice cold air blowing out of the heat.
So I do the obvious, check thermostat, flush heater core, flush and change entire cooling system and bleed out air. Same problem So now I am thinking it has to be my water pump. Which is a pain in the butt to remove since I have to remove my supercharger just to get to one of the bolts. Anyways after getting it off and taking it apart. The input shaft sheared right in half from the propeller inside the pump housing This pump has less than 3k miles on it. Has anyone ever have this happen before? I have had a couple of 6500 revs on this motor. (Built SC Stroker) Anyways I think I am going with a electric pump. I was just wondering if this has happened to any one else?
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2006 TBSS 1996 Impala SS
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#2
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So, not enough antifreeze Sid??
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The First LS7 T56 6 Speed Wagon Katech cam , 550 rwhp Drag strip pics and video My Wagon My W-31 Cutlass |
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#3
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It was mostly antifreeze. That's what surprised me? The impeller was in good shape the shaft was actually broken in half. Of course there was some wear from running the engine trying to figure out the problem.
Now that I think about it; metal shavings in the water jackets shouldn't harm the engine itself, if I flush the block out should it?
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2006 TBSS 1996 Impala SS
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#4
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If you suspect that there are any shavings at all in the cooling system......I would thoroughly flush the entire cooling system out, starting by pulling the knock sensors out of the block and flushing the block itself 1st, then the rest of the cooling system and NEW Coolant to top it all off.......My .02
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"Da Factory Rat" ![]() 95 DCM Caprice LT1 |
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#5
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Don't feel bad. I just replaced a 3 year old AZ rebuilt WP in the Cady with just a couple thousand miles on it. I was getting a faint temp light after commutes and found a weeping seal hole so likely just low sys pressure.
You never know when you're gonna lose a seal, especially in a rebuilt. But I never heard of snapping a driveshaft.
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. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . "Oh Bob, It's So Big And Long!" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . \'96 BBB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, SLP SS, 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear) \'95 FTSS: total mono gray, SSRI, Anthony tune, Aero catback/H/resonators, SS bars and coils, Hotchkis LCAs, Bilsteins/Airlift 1000, NL rear discs |
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#6
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Just for the simple fact u have to remove sc to change wp I would def go electric...6 bolts a plug and some rtv and your back in business...easier than changin a tire..and u free up a couple ponies.
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77 Chevy Caprice 80 Chevy Caprice (droppin in a lt1 and 4l60e from a 94 fleetwood) 95 Fleetwood Brougham (my daily) K&N filter, Meziere Elec. WP |
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