Total brake fluid flush? - Chevy Impala SS Forum
Impala SS Forum
Go Back   Chevy Impala SS Forum > 91-96 Impala/B-body > Brakes
New User? Register - Forgot Password

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 02-23-2010, 10:34 PM
tlynch tlynch is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Delaware, OH, USA
Posts: 887
tlynch is an unknown quantity at this point
Default Total brake fluid flush?

So, I know people have posted about "flushing" the fluid but I still have questions. Maybe I'm just being overly-picky (it's OK to tell me if so).

Anyway, I don't think a flush has ever been done. EVER. I've added maybe a pint's worth in the 12 years I've owned the car.

I want to do a full flush and then put the SS-lines (bought them 3 years ago with SS Brakes front kit!) on all around. I'm going to replace my rear calipers too since the pistons are sticking (also factory installed!). So I want to make sure the fluid is as clean as I can get it.

So, I'm thinking of the following.

New fluid in a pressure tank (see: http://www.jegs.com/i/Motive+Product...00101/10002/-1) I bought from Jegs back when I got the brake kit. I was told that anything below 10psi is OK. The tanks hose attaches directly to the reservoir "intake" holes. That way I don't have to worry about checking the level or pump the brake.

So, I connect the tank, push the brake pedal half-way and block it. Then I open the front-left bleeder till clear. Next front-right, then back-left, then back-right. When all is clear, I'm done.

I was told using the pressure tank will make sure all the fluid in the master cylinder is replaced.

Then when all that's done, I replace the factory lines with the new SS lines (5-piece), and at the same time install the calipers, etc. and bleed the air out.

So, am I being too finicky?
__________________
94-BBB/159k, metco uppers/lowers, SSBC dual-piston front calipers, SS rotors, SRI, Ecsta ASX, pcmforless, 160 thermo, otherwise stock and still managing 248hp/300tq at rear wheels.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old 02-23-2010, 11:47 PM
Todd Stranczek Todd Stranczek is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Benton, Arkansas
Posts: 207
Todd Stranczek
Default

Only issue you may have is getting the Motive Master Cylinder Cap to properly seal on the B-Body - if you have one with the black plastic rectangle caps it will not seal adaquately. You can go to Motive directly and purchase a steel one that will work properly on the B-Body or on a Grand National. I have one and it works OK. Kind of a PITA to get on but once secure it works fine. I have been thinking about making one out of an old factory cap but have not gotten around to it.

One other recomendation: I seldom see this done but I have been doing it for a couple tears now - wrap teflon tape around the threads of your bleeder screws (Do not interfere with the seat portion of the screw just the threads) 2-3 wraps.

This provides a good seal so you to use a suction tool if you would like to draw fluid through the system and also helps prevents air from going in past the threads when cracking the bleeders to pressure bleed.

Good luck.

Toddsss@aol.com
__________________
Todd Stranczek - Arkansas - ISSCA 1996 BBB..........
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3  
Old 02-24-2010, 12:24 AM
ghetto wagon's Avatar
ghetto wagon ghetto wagon is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Ghetto Garage
Posts: 10,827
ghetto wagon is an unknown quantity at this point
Default

I sucked out all the old fluid in the master, Wiped all the black gunk out of the master, Refilled with new stuff, Put the cap on. Went around and cracked the bleeders, Let some fluid run out for a few mins. Closed the bleeders, then Bled the brakes 100000 times untill it was clean. Someone pushed the pedal, I cracked the bleeder... Refill the master when its half way empty.. IF you run the masters fluid level too low you will be bench bleeding the master....

Screw the whole power flush bleed thing. It costs too much IMHO.. Unless you live alone and have no friends/ Family with working legs. No pun intended

All I had to buy is 1/4 inch ID clear tube + 2 liters of brake fluid (used ATE type 200) My old luid looked like motor oil. The car stops ALOT better now.
__________________

Last edited by ghetto wagon; 02-24-2010 at 12:29 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4  
Old 02-24-2010, 01:03 AM
tlynch tlynch is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Delaware, OH, USA
Posts: 887
tlynch is an unknown quantity at this point
Default

Excepting I already have the pressure bleeder tank and I don't want to do the "push the brake pedal a bazillion times" (done that for too many years on other cars).

BTW: The part you wiped clean isn't the master cylinder. It's only the reservoir.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ghetto wagon View Post
I sucked out all the old fluid in the master, Wiped all the black gunk out of the master, Refilled with new stuff, Put the cap on. Went around and cracked the bleeders, Let some fluid run out for a few mins. Closed the bleeders, then Bled the brakes 100000 times untill it was clean. Someone pushed the pedal, I cracked the bleeder... Refill the master when its half way empty.. IF you run the masters fluid level too low you will be bench bleeding the master....

Screw the whole power flush bleed thing. It costs too much IMHO.. Unless you live alone and have no friends/ Family with working legs. No pun intended

All I had to buy is 1/4 inch ID clear tube + 2 liters of brake fluid (used ATE type 200) My old luid looked like motor oil. The car stops ALOT better now.
__________________
94-BBB/159k, metco uppers/lowers, SSBC dual-piston front calipers, SS rotors, SRI, Ecsta ASX, pcmforless, 160 thermo, otherwise stock and still managing 248hp/300tq at rear wheels.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5  
Old 02-24-2010, 11:21 PM
ghetto wagon's Avatar
ghetto wagon ghetto wagon is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Ghetto Garage
Posts: 10,827
ghetto wagon is an unknown quantity at this point
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tlynch View Post
Excepting I already have the pressure bleeder tank and I don't want to do the "push the brake pedal a bazillion times" (done that for too many years on other cars).

BTW: The part you wiped clean isn't the master cylinder. It's only the reservoir.
Its on the master cylinder isnt it... You got the idea. In the old days it was all one piece. I would clean around the two recesses where the fluid flows into the master as well w/ a q tip.. Sludge forms around there.

If you want a pressure bleed, Get a junkyard cap, Drill holes in it and the rubber diaphram. Put some right sized brass fittings in it, Strap it down as tight as possible with a bungie or a strap of you want to go crazy..... Parts stores sell the right cap, help section/dorman, they cost $10+.
__________________

Last edited by ghetto wagon; 02-24-2010 at 11:29 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6  
Old 02-24-2010, 11:35 PM
The Grinch The Grinch is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 6
The Grinch is on a distinguished road
Default

yeah G wagon has the right idea. Power bleeding is more of a PITA then its worth since u need the cap and all. I would just do it the old way but that is me and I don't have a power bleeder already. What is the difference really..... a little more time. I could see if there is no one to help you

You need to make a cap or buy one to make your "kit"work properly. So pony up the cash or get off your lazy azz and make one or .... do it the old way.
__________________
2 Old School Chevys
'56 Willys Wagon

Last edited by The Grinch; 02-24-2010 at 11:51 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7  
Old 02-25-2010, 09:59 AM
tlynch tlynch is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Delaware, OH, USA
Posts: 887
tlynch is an unknown quantity at this point
Default

Quit talking to my wife!! I gotta do something about that Stainless Steel Brakes dual-piston front kit sitting in my garage too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Grinch View Post
... get off your lazy azz and make one or ....
__________________
94-BBB/159k, metco uppers/lowers, SSBC dual-piston front calipers, SS rotors, SRI, Ecsta ASX, pcmforless, 160 thermo, otherwise stock and still managing 248hp/300tq at rear wheels.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8  
Old 02-25-2010, 11:04 AM
sherlock9c1 sherlock9c1 is offline
Sophomore Member
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 8,003
sherlock9c1 can only hope to improve
Send a message via AIM to sherlock9c1
Default

My two B-bodies gravity-bleed very very nicely. I just jacked the car up, put tubes on all the bleeders into glass jars, cracked all the bleeder screws wide open, and just kept pouring new fluid in the reservoir until clear fluid came out all of the brakes. I didn't mess with any of that pedal pushing and my brakes are very firm.
__________________
Democracy is two wolves and a sheep discussing what is for dinner, Freedom is a well-armed sheep contesting the result.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9  
Old 02-25-2010, 03:38 PM
4DoorSS's Avatar
4DoorSS 4DoorSS is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Beautiful Chester County, PA
Posts: 4,809
4DoorSS is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd Stranczek View Post
Only issue you may have is getting the Motive Master Cylinder Cap to properly seal on the B-Body - if you have one with the black plastic rectangle caps it will not seal adaquately. You can go to Motive directly and purchase a steel one that will work properly on the B-Body or on a Grand National. I have one and it works OK. Kind of a PITA to get on but once secure it works fine. I have been thinking about making one out of an old factory cap but have not gotten around to it.

One other recomendation: I seldom see this done but I have been doing it for a couple tears now - wrap teflon tape around the threads of your bleeder screws (Do not interfere with the seat portion of the screw just the threads) 2-3 wraps.

This provides a good seal so you to use a suction tool if you would like to draw fluid through the system and also helps prevents air from going in past the threads when cracking the bleeders to pressure bleed.

Good luck.

Toddsss@aol.com

+1 on teflon tape deal. I use a MityVac pump to pull fluid down and found the same problem when the bleeder screws are cracked. It just sucks air and won't hold vacum without the tape.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10  
Old 02-28-2010, 10:03 PM
MUSCLE9C1 MUSCLE9C1 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Prior Lake, MN
Posts: 242
MUSCLE9C1
Send a message via AIM to MUSCLE9C1
Smile

just pay a shop to do it, less hassle and prolly cost you less in the long run man... It takes me prolly 10 min. to flush the entire brake system.. with the right tools its just worth it to pay someone else.. just my opinion a little late i geuss
__________________
95 9C1 mostly stock, standard mods..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Chevy Impala SS Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:20 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.
(c) 2007-2014 Impala SS Forum