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Old 05-01-2010, 02:14 PM
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Default I can't figure out my Dashboard removal

I need help bad and soon, I am desperately trying to keep my car out of the hands of the junkyard, heater core went, wife is pissed. I can't figure out how to take out the dash so I can fix it. And help would be greatly appreciated.

Theodore
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Old 05-01-2010, 02:45 PM
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You can replace it from the bottom with out removing the dash. Remove the panel under the glovebox...remove the bottom of the airbox...you can access the core from there. There used to be an R&R thread on the forum. Use the search function to see if it is still here. Your wife is being unreasonable. It is far cheaper to keep a car like this running than to pay for a new car.
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Old 05-01-2010, 02:50 PM
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Check this one guy for the part 1994 RMW Parts - Alpharetta GA - Still lots of items!
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1991 OCC upgraded LO5, LT1 cam, 46mm TBI, bored intake manifold, wrapped headers, true duals w/Flowmasters, 3.23 posi, flash to pass, drop spindles & springs, custom fender skirts, stainless full moons, Recaros, Blazer console, Nardi/wood SW w/QR, custom wood shift knob, Pioneer DEH P77DH
1992 OCC now with 5.7 tbi, SS wheels. DEH P77DH
For a parts list, check Plenty of good parts
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Old 05-01-2010, 05:04 PM
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Hell, it's summer, if it's an emergency and the car needs to be driven bypass it and continue driving til you can change it. I would junk my wife before my car.

The purchase of a Factory Service Manual should be mandatory when purchasing one of these cars.
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Last edited by Sinister; 05-01-2010 at 05:06 PM.
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Old 05-01-2010, 05:45 PM
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Bypass, and repair it later (when wife is shopping). I know it took about 2.5 hours on the SS and about 30 minutes on the FW. Never had to change one on a Buick yet so not sure on the time.
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Old 05-03-2010, 09:01 PM
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..yeah, also take out the passenger seat too. Only a couple bolts holding it in and you will be VERY glad to have the extra wiggle room when laying down and working under the dash (you are taking off that large black box behind/under the glovebox. It holds the AC Evap core and Heater core.)
Honestly, if you take both front seats out...you will have an easier time rolling the carpet AND rubber backing out of the way. That will help a whole lot as far as space and getting the bottom of the box off and on right. (reaching those pesky little 7mm screws waay in the back)


http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet....php?p=2239099

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Old 05-06-2010, 11:01 AM
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Default super help as usual

Thanks all, I did what you said, and following the core inlet and outlet to the dash line and looked under, WELL, i removed the seat so I could look under....ended up laying on my back in the car to do the whole job, the bitch of it was the cover bolts, tried many sockets before finding my 7/32. Then it was impossible to remove the last bolt closest to the firewall. I cut it, which leads me to ask, should that be ok? I pulled the old core and watched crud pour out, popped the new one in, put cover back on (and all of the dash peices I removed, honestly I would still recommend taking out the glove box, it gives you more light and room to move. So, the low coolant light stayed on for 2 days, running fine, heating and cooling fine, not low on coolant, then my battery completely died, have been recharging it. I swapped the battery and viola, the coolant light went off AND, my rotten egg smell has gone away (i think). Any chance that a bad battery not charging well could cause 02 sensors to read badly?

Theodore
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Old 05-06-2010, 07:00 PM
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Low voltage can do wierd things. I would think the heaters in the O2s would not work as well with less voltage, along with other important parts, like the fuel pump, ECM, coil, sensors, and cooling fans just name a few.

You should put the screw back. It helps seal the pan, so if the condensation level get high, it does not run out on the floor.
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1991 OCC upgraded LO5, LT1 cam, 46mm TBI, bored intake manifold, wrapped headers, true duals w/Flowmasters, 3.23 posi, flash to pass, drop spindles & springs, custom fender skirts, stainless full moons, Recaros, Blazer console, Nardi/wood SW w/QR, custom wood shift knob, Pioneer DEH P77DH
1992 OCC now with 5.7 tbi, SS wheels. DEH P77DH
For a parts list, check Plenty of good parts
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  #9  
Old 05-20-2010, 09:58 AM
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Default Battery

Well, with the battery in the state it was in, you would have thought the car was on its last leg. I wanted to comment on this again in case any else with a BAD BATTERY, has problems they can't figure out. My car was shuddering, smelled like rotten egg hell x2, using more fuel, and the electronic accessories would start flickering like crazy even at highway speeds. I have never experienced this type of problem with a car running. I assumed that if it was started and the alternator was fine, that even if the battery had some issues, it would not be noticed. It makes sense that the alternator would keep everything functioning right? But, nonetheless, replacing that battery for me was the equivalent of replacing 02 sensors, egr sensors, cat's and re wiring the whole car

So, to sum up. If you have crazy wierd issues, you may want to have the battery checked before you start replacing things

Theodore
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  #10  
Old 05-20-2010, 10:52 AM
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... and if the problems start re-ocurring again, it's the charging system.

I'm suspicious that the alternator didn't carry the load. Maybe you had a dead cell and were overtaxing the alternator, but in general I don't how the battery effects things negatively once the car is running, as at point you are using the alternator for all electrical power.
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