TCC Lockup Solenoid Stuck On? Code #? - Page 2 - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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Old 04-08-2011, 12:07 AM
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Decided to tap into the Tan/Black TCC wire right before it goes into trans, just in case the wire was grounding somewhere between the pcm and trans connector. Little more work, but better peace of mind I guess.



Ran a wire up into the cabin from the trans harness and hooked it up to an old volt gauge, figuring it'd be way easier to watch that while driving vs. trying to attach multimeter leads in place, watching the little screen, etc.

Hot lead was the end of the lighter socket plug going into the volt gauge, and ground lead was aux added wire coming off TCC wire, also attached to the back of the volt gauge, if that makes sense? Electrical terminology isn't one of my strong points.




Looks like the pcm is commanding the lockup/unlock just like it should!

Always showing exactly 12 volt reading until the car reaches 35+ mph at very light throttle in D or OD, then the reading instantly drops to 0 volts as the pcm commands lockup by grounding the wire, correct?

Also did the TCC unlock brake tap test when lockup was commanded (0 voltage reading) while light throttle cruising above 35 mph. Quick tap on the brakes instantly popped the voltage from 0 back to 12, which would mean the pcm seems to be commanding the TCC lock/unlock just as it should.

Unfortunately, the the physical converter locking/unlocking did not seem to match what was going on with the gauge whatsoever.

This leads me to believe that my problem most likely is a malfunctioning TCC solenoid, or, faulty TCC wiring inside the trans between the connector, although much less likely I'd imagine?


Make sense? Anything I'm overlooking or other things to consider before I got ahead and order a new TCC solenoid and drop the pan to pop it in?

Any chance the TCC PWM solenoid would have anything to do with this? Datamaster scans show an instant jump from 0% to 99% TCC duty cycle, as soon as a gear is selected, regardless of PRNDL selection, but still no DTCs.
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Last edited by Chicagoareabmx; 04-08-2011 at 12:19 AM.
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  #12  
Old 05-02-2011, 12:59 AM
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Went ahead and ordered TCC Lockup solenoid a few weeks ago, planning on installing in the next few days after a trans fluid flush and filter change.

When I have the pan off, is their anything else I should look for or poke around at?

At least one person has mentioned that if the TCC solenoid isn't the problem, then I might have some problems in the valve body, at which point things might be a little more serious?

Any tips or insight is appreciated!

Thanks!
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  #13  
Old 05-02-2011, 07:43 AM
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have you checked and ruled out your brake switch?
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Old 05-02-2011, 10:43 AM
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You might go to www.sonnax.com and poke around their website for 4L60E parts. This transmission is old enough that there are a lot of good fixes out there for it.
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Old 05-02-2011, 03:13 PM
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If the tranny shifts fine, change the Solenoid.
I have had to change a couple of them.
Wiring is easy inside the pan.
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Old 05-03-2011, 12:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8killer View Post
have you checked and ruled out your brake switch?

Monitoring the TCC Lockup circuit, a quick tap on the brakes un-grounds the 12v circuit, sending the "unlock" signal to the trans, which I wrote about in an earlier post in this thread.


"Always showing exactly 12 volt reading until the car reaches 35+ mph at very light throttle in D or OD, then the reading instantly drops to 0 volts as the pcm commands lockup by grounding the wire, correct?

Also did the TCC unlock brake tap test when lockup was commanded (0 voltage reading) while light throttle cruising above 35 mph. Quick tap on the brakes instantly popped the voltage from 0 back to 12, which would mean the pcm seems to be commanding the TCC lock/unlock just as it should."


This says to me that the brake switch would be working correctly. Could I be overlooking anything there?
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Old 05-03-2011, 12:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbsimmons View Post
If the tranny shifts fine, change the Solenoid.
I have had to change a couple of them.
Wiring is easy inside the pan.

This is where things get a little murky for me. "Fine" is hard for me to define in this scenario.

Trans seems to shift a little harder than normal, and earlier than normal, and the motor seems to lug a bunch at 30mph +, unless you tip into the throttle fairly hard. I attributed that feeling to the converter always being locked up, making shifts feel harder, and the feeling of upshifting into too high of a gear too soon.

Does that make sense?
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Old 05-03-2011, 01:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chicagoareabmx View Post
This is where things get a little murky for me. "Fine" is hard for me to define in this scenario.

Trans seems to shift a little harder than normal, and earlier than normal, and the motor seems to lug a bunch at 30mph +, unless you tip into the throttle fairly hard. I attributed that feeling to the converter always being locked up, making shifts feel harder, and the feeling of upshifting into too high of a gear too soon.

Does that make sense?
change your solenoid (and wire-harness while you got the pan off).
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Last edited by V8killer; 05-03-2011 at 10:09 PM.
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Old 05-03-2011, 09:28 PM
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Reason why is that the TC is not eating up the shifts anymore, it is solid.
usually when a car shifts, the TC will eat the shift up, plus not lock.
If locked, which yours is, the car shifts to the next gear at looks to be 30, it will lug.
Now if you didnt fix the lock up problem and raised that shift point it would no longer lug.
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  #20  
Old 05-07-2011, 02:34 AM
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Talking Finally works right!!!

Success! Swapped out the TCC solenoid and installed new filter tonight after flushing with several fresh quarts. Seemed to finally behave normally on the initial test drive on a little loop around town and merging onto the freeway. It's been a long time!

Really not sure how this was looked over as a possible culprit last time I took it into a trans shop for diagnosis, and was charged $300 with no real change in behavior, but I digress.

I did notice that the fluid I flushed out was really quite dirty, and the magnet in the pan was pretty darn goopy with a slightly metallic dark charcoal color.

I would imagine that driving around for a year with the TCC generally stuck on would wear the clutches in the converter a bit and leave a bunch of clutch material floating around in the fluid?

How likely is it that the clutches in there can physically wear out under these circumstances?

I also noticed the TCC solenoid I pulled out was "Rostra" "Made in USA", which was the same thing I ordered and installed. Was that brand ever OEM? If not, then I assume when Dana@Probuilt built the trans, he put a fresh one in, and apparently that only lasted a very very short while before malfunctioning?

There also happened to be either a very small ball bearing, or more likely a steel checkball that fell out of the trans at some point during the solenoid R&R. I assume this could have been making things act wacky in there if it were just floating around, or stuck in some orifice.
Not sure if the trans shop that attempted to diagnose and fix my issue by replacing my Torlon checkballs with steel, without any mention or consent, might have accidentally dropped a checkball and lost it in the trans during the process....... Makes me wonder.

One last quick question. Approximately how much fluid do I need to add after completely draining the pan? 4-6 quarts? I ask because I have a really tough time reading the revised trans dipstick without holes. I added 4, then kept checking, and assumming I'm reading it correctly, finalized the fill at about 5.5, maybe 6 quarts. That sound about right? Any tips on checking the dipstick, other than car level, in park, with engine running?


Thanks again for all your tips and pointers! Very excited that this may have finally fixed my trans so that the car is actually fun to drive again!
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