NANO system

[Jeff Green]

This section seems to get no hits anymore and my guess is most would feel what more can you say about nitrous systems.

Here are some quick notes on the NANO system I used last year, pros and cons.

PROS:

1. Because the NANO uses 6000 PSI to keep the nitous pressure at 1050 it keeps you from going rich on the big end. Much easier to tune than a normal system.
2. It changes nothing at the line or first 100 feet so if your car hooks well now then that will not change. What it does do is give you more power in the second half of the track by not letting the nitrous pressure drop. With only a small amount used in my setup I saw a tenth pickup and 2 MPH.
3. It's much easier to keep the bottle cool than to heat it up. The heaters we all use will not help your pressure going down the track as they can not react fast enough to the change in such a short time. I always struggled to have the pressure where I wants it on hot days because if a delay on the tack happened the bottle was too hot when I finally mad the pass due to the delay. If I cooled it too much and the line I was in moved to fast then the pressure was not high enough. The Nano solved this as even in 90 degree weather all it took was two small zip lock bags of ice to keep the a 20 pound tank at 60 to 70 degrees changing the bags between passes of an hour or more. Every pass has the same pressure now if its 95 degrees out or 40 degress.
4. You can run your bollte to empty because your pressure is always there. I ran a 20 pound tank just to keep the pressure stable but now thinking of switching to a ten pound tank to reduce some weight. You will not have to change your tanks as often or need as many tanks for a day.

CONS:

1. Good luck finding anyone that can charge your little NANO tank to 6000 psi. I had to rent my own 6000 PSI tank that had to be sent in from Chicago because no one in all of Indianapolis uses a 6000 psi tank. Indy has more racing shops than about any place else in the country so you would have thought some demand would have been here.
2. I cant stress enough you need to respect what you are playing with!!! This is 6000 PSI which is more pressure than you think it is.
2. You cannot top off a tank to have full tanks for each time you go to the track. The people at NANO say you can but it doesnt work unless you have a CO compressor to charge tanks.

I dont know if I'm the only one playing with this stuff but always looking for the next trick to make things better. I would like to hear others comments if you have a NANO you have used.

[RuffrydnSS]

Very good post jeff. I was looking into investing in the #20 kit cuz i already have the bottle. But i was also looking at the #15 kit that comes with everything. Its a little pricy but i clearly think this is the best idea/kit out there

[Tar Heel]

I actually had never heard of this system until I was on the dyno 3 weeks getting a tune. My bottle heater allowed my system to hit hard but then the AFR went rich during the pull as it would on a run. We made 527 rwhp on a 175 shot but my tuner felt there was more there.

I ordered the 3000 universal kit from Chris last week along with a new bottle valve to accomodate the nitrogen line, different jets, and a filter kit. It should be here tomorrow and from all I've researched it will help not only make more HP but with consistency also.

[RuffrydnSS]

Definately let me know the results!

[Tar Heel]

I will. I went out Saturday night. NA was 7.89 @ 88mph with a 1.72 60'. I had removed my bottle heater and sold it but had a half of nitrous I was trying to get rid of before my NANO kit came. With only about 600psi since I couldn't heat it I went a 7.13 @ 96mph with a 1.51 60'. I'm excited to have 1000psi the entire run. The DA was over 2300' (even though our track is at 500' elevation) so I'm hoping in good air to run some 6.9xs and 10.9xs in the 1/4.

I know I need to bump the fuel jet up for the NANO (or bring the nitrous jet down) but what about plugs? I run TR6s but have heard I'll want to go to TR7s. I'm spraying 175 and 7 degrees of timing pulled out through the Mallory box.

[tbsimmons]

It all starts with what your total timing is.
If your tables have say 36 in them, then you are running 40 total.
On a 175 you are running 33 total. I would pull it down to 31 and see if the car goes faster, if not then add 1 at a time back in.
On the nitrous and fuel jet side it will depend on what the car likes and also what the AFR is running NA.
For a 175 shot you are running around a 64 nitrous jet I would think.
If your car is at say 12.9-13.0 AFR.
64N and 38F and work down.
If you are in the mid 12's with AFR
64N and 36F then work down. It will most likely be a 34F.
This is based off of 45psi of fuel pressure.
I am a big believer of running more timing retard and a little leaner on the bottle.
My car likes being in the mid 12.5's NA
So I usually run a jet smaller than what is listed for a single nozzle.
Ex. 62N 33F
This gets me in the mid to low 11's AFR on the bottle.

On the plugs I would run the 7's. I run 7's in my heads and cam car and it is fine, even driving around town. Still get heat in them NA.

This is my opinion and everyone has one!!!!

[Tar Heel]

NX recommends 73/41 jets in my MAF system for a 175 shot @ 45psi. We tuned the car on the dyno and had the AFR perfect NA but I don't remember the numbers and don't have my dyno sheet in front of me at work. When we sprayed it I didn't have a 41 jet so we started with a 46 on the fuel and made good numbers but of course the AFR was a tad rich (ie safe). My tuner suggested that we come down on the jets on the fuel side one at a time until we got it where we wanted it but the pull was going rich because the heater couldn't keep up and the nitrous pressure naturally drops. Hence, why I ordered a NANO system. They recommend bumping the fuel jet up to 48 and leaving the 73 nitrous jet. I'm going to go back on the dyno and start at 48, coming down one jet size on the fuel until we find the one that gives us the best and safest AFR and horsepower numbers. I'm guessing we won't be too far off from where we start.

[juicedimpss]

Originally Posted by tbsimmons

It all starts with what your total timing is.
.
I am a big believer of running more timing retard and a little leaner on the bottle.
My car likes being in the mid 12.5's NA
So I usually run a jet smaller than what is listed for a single nozzle.
Ex. 62N 33F
This gets me in the mid to low 11's AFR on the bottle.

!

I agree with more timing retard and lean A/F

rich tune is what kills the rings,then oil gets into the chamber and deto begins.
i would shoot for the same A/F on the nitrous as what the motor likes N/A. only real issue doing it this way is you need to start very conservative with timing and sneak up on it.
Stay away from a projected tip plug.

[juicedimpss]

Originally Posted by tar heel

a tad rich (ie safe).

not true. This is the entire reason for the NANO setup,to keep the car from going rich on the back half of the track. More nitrous pressure will keep a/f leaner.

[Jeff Green]

Not sure I could agree with retarding the timing and at the same time leaning the motor out. As you retard timing you need more fuel added.

That really sounds like a result of someone tuning with EGTs and seeing them increase when they retarded the timimg. You first thought is the EGT went up whcih means its too rich, right?? Wrong!! That is just a cause and effect of retarding your timimg. When you retard the timing you dont allow time for all the fuel to burn completely and why the EGT increases is because of fuel being burnt in the header tube.

Retarding the timing requires more fuel to keep the actual AFR in the cylinder the same as advancing the timing requires less fuel. Advance requires less because your not blowing as much unburnt fuel out the header.

You always want as much advance timing as possible. The only reason to retard the timing is to cover up other problems like fuel that is not good enough, dynamic issues in the engine which covers a lot.

I know what a lot of the race world does and sometimes it not for the reason you think. Sometimes they run retard timing to add extra fuel to cool the cylinder and without that cooling it will hurt the engine. So it's not being done for the reasons people think and most dont have the cylinder pressure to require such a trick.

My last comment is I run 33 degrees total on 19 PSI in a engine running on unleaded with high cylinder pressure. I will admit I am doing all I can to cool those cylinders and that why it works. But the fact remains I would not be making the power I am if I ran the timing at 28 total or 26 total. All I would be doing is using more fuel, run the headers hotter, need a bigger fuel pump and injectors and so on for less power.