"Iron LS2" into 79 Caprice Coupe Build Thread - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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Old 08-01-2011, 01:53 PM
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Default "Iron LS2" into 79 Caprice Coupe Build Thread

Took it for it's last 135HP ride on Sat..

Let's let the kitty out of the bag.

3:00 PM Sat


6:15 PM Sat



7:30 PM



9:30 PM after dinner and test fitting 3 sets of exhaust manifolds.


This is only mockup. Gotta fully weld the motor mount brackets I made (I love my plasma cutter!!), do a light notch in the x-member for the oilpan, and a little on the RH frame to fit the manifolds I want to run. Stock 2004 Silverado fan fits the stock fan shroud, as does a thicker core 1988-1995 Chevy Silverado V8 radiator. Rad cap clears the underside of the hood by 5/8" as does the air cleaner, though I need to cut the insulation out to fit a taller air cleaner if I can get it to fit. Also, the 79 has the brake prop valve on the frame right where the manifold-downpipe flange fits.. this might be the time to put the 91-96 master and prop valve in.
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Old 08-01-2011, 02:16 PM
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Motor Specs.

2002 or 2003 LQ4. Bores VGC, mains and rod journals like new.
2005 LS2 Rods and Pistons.
243 LS2/LS6 head castings... technically they were cast when only the LS6 had these heads (I've had them on the shelf since 2003 or 2004), but I am running stock LS2 valves. Sent them out to be CNC ported. Should have them back this week sometime.
Either a Comp cam or 2002+ LS6 cam. Have not decided for sure yet.
Edelbrock/MSD Carb setup with ignition box.
Truck accessory drive with stock mechanical fan.
F-body oilpan

Body specs. 68,000 original mile 79 Coupe. Not perfect, but nice from 10'. Motor was the original 305, trans got swapped out in March or April of this year when the car got pulled out of a 16 year internment in a local guys garage. Original TH200 trans lasted <200 miles after the car was revived, all the clutches and seals dry rotted from sitting.

Chassis. Stock except for new swaybar links, TSB rear lower control arms, and a 3.08 posi axle from a 95 9C1. I had the stock axles re-drilled to 5x4.75" and swapped over the original 9" drum brake backing plates. They were a bolt-on. New brake lines from the chassis to new rear wheel cylinders. I had to get 91 Caprice 9" drums and redrill them to 5x4.75 as well as the OD of the axle flange on the 8.5" axles were bigger than ID of the center hole in the 79 Drums. Swap ran my just under $200 for new drums, shoes wheel cylinders, new rear cover, axle seals, paint and redrilling the axles.
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Old 08-01-2011, 05:13 PM
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sweet, cant wait to see vids of that thing
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Old 08-02-2011, 08:53 AM
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A few pics of the current fit. Home-made engine mount adapter brackets, fits the engine better than any of the other kits, like BRP, S&P etc..

This is a few shots looking at the F-body oilpan clearance to the crossmember. It clears, but some minor notching will be done to be safe.

Left side:


Right side is a little tighter:


I tried a few different manifolds, and ended up with the 2003-2009 Trailblazer/Envoy/Rainier V8 exhaust manifolds.

The 79 Caprice has the brake prop valve mounted down on the left side frame rail, EXACTLY where the manifold flanges want to be. The previous owner replaced the brake lines from the prop valve to the brakes, but did a pretty poor job, never even removed the old rusty lines. Because of that, I am just going to move to the 91-96 MC and prop valve, and replumb the lines to the front brakes, and tie into the rear pipe 5-6" rearward of where it meets the current prop.

On the right side, one of the 3 bolts on the manifold flange are just touching the frame. I'll put a little clearance notch in the frame, and weld it shut again.

Right side manifold clearance:


Left Side Clearance with current prop valve. Note the old crusty brake line is still there..
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Old 08-02-2011, 12:01 PM
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And subscribed.

Just curious though, how come you're not trying to run headers?

Edit: And also electric fans from an LT1 car? That would cure your fan issues and free up some power.
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Old 08-02-2011, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9C1'Stangkiller View Post
And subscribed.

Just curious though, how come you're not trying to run headers?

Edit: And also electric fans from an LT1 car? That would cure your fan issues and free up some power.

Why no headers?? $$$, simple as that. I blew my mod budget on the induction setup and valvetrain. Woodward is less than 3 weeks away, and I wanted to make sure I could have it running. $450+ on headers would have been a deal breaker. It's temporary though. I have to build a few more motors, and sell a few extra's I have laying around.

Why mech fan? I didn't want to waste time and $$ for a temporary setup. I plan to EFI and go OD trans (4L60E, 80E or T56) over the winter. The stand alone fan control setup, even with a simple thermo switch and relay setup would take several hours and $50-$100 to set up. So, time and $$ again. That, and it all fits so freakin easily, I wanted to show that you can make the LS jump for a lot less cash outlay than people think. I had the radiator, the fan shroud and a FST mechanical fan on the shelf (I have too many shelves ), so once I remembered how well that fan setup fit on my 94 Silvy, I decided I had to try it on the 79... Looks factory.

This winter, I plan to swap the body onto a a rust free 94 9c1 Frame (yes it will bolt right up, done that before), so when I do that I'll probably set the exhaust up with headers.

Though you didn't ask, why Carb? Time, and I got a killer deal on the setup. $500 for the intake ignition box and Like new carb. Couldn't beat it. . It will take next to nothing to get the carb setup wired in. That, and it will look killer under there. The EFI intakes make more torque, and only slightly less power, but the look of a single plane intake looks so....... nice.

So, if $$ and time were not an issue, my 402 stroker with Ti rods would be all together, EFI'd with Headers..... and I'd be looking for another trans and rearend..
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Old 08-02-2011, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beertestr View Post
Why no headers?? $$$, simple as that. I blew my mod budget on the induction setup and valvetrain. Woodward is less than 3 weeks away, and I wanted to make sure I could have it running. $450+ on headers would have been a deal breaker. It's temporary though. I have to build a few more motors, and sell a few extra's I have laying around.

Why mech fan? I didn't want to waste time and $$ for a temporary setup. I plan to EFI and go OD trans (4L60E, 80E or T56) over the winter. The stand alone fan control setup, even with a simple thermo switch and relay setup would take several hours and $50-$100 to set up. So, time and $$ again. That, and it all fits so freakin easily, I wanted to show that you can make the LS jump for a lot less cash outlay than people think. I had the radiator, the fan shroud and a FST mechanical fan on the shelf (I have too many shelves ), so once I remembered how well that fan setup fit on my 94 Silvy, I decided I had to try it on the 79... Looks factory.

This winter, I plan to swap the body onto a a rust free 94 9c1 Frame (yes it will bolt right up, done that before), so when I do that I'll probably set the exhaust up with headers.

Though you didn't ask, why Carb? Time, and I got a killer deal on the setup. $500 for the intake ignition box and Like new carb. Couldn't beat it. . It will take next to nothing to get the carb setup wired in. That, and it will look killer under there. The EFI intakes make more torque, and only slightly less power, but the look of a single plane intake looks so....... nice.

So, if $$ and time were not an issue, my 402 stroker with Ti rods would be all together, EFI'd with Headers..... and I'd be looking for another trans and rearend..
I completely understand, and honestly, I figured about as much. I've been there with projects. Money has been the biggest hang up in all my projects for the longest time.

I feel you on the body swap thing. Check this out:



Blue tarp.

My/grandpa's 1969 Impala Sport Coupe. It's got 79,000 miles. When it eventually makes the trip from Nebraska to my house in Tennessee, it'll get stuck on a tri-9 frame. From what I understand, it should fit. Like. A. Glove. I'll get better pics in September when I go back home.
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1996 9C1 Caprice
The "Hoping for low 11's on nitrous" mod.
Thinking about buying an Eagle crank? Think again.
And Again
Quote:
Originally Posted by LT Scholz
Blah Blah Blah, I'm a dirty tramp.

Last edited by 9C1'Stangkiller; 08-02-2011 at 02:04 PM.
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Old 08-10-2011, 03:17 PM
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Slow progress, but soon to pick up.

Mount brackets are fully fab'd up, re-test fit, welded and painted.
I wire-wheeled the frame down a bit, but didn't spend a lot of time on it. There is another frame going under the car this winter.
- I notched the frame x-member a bit, maybe a bit more than needed. I noticed that I probably could have just slid the motor another 3/8" rearward and been fine, there is enough room on the trans x-member to slide it back, and room on the slip yoke. A thought for another time.
- I chamfered the RH frame a bit right near the toeboard area to clear the RH exhaust manifold.
Both notches got boxed back in.

I decided to try and relocate the stock prop valve a little forward on the frame. If I can get 2" between it and the exhaust manifold heat shield, it'll be fine.

Went to the boneyard and found the stock exhaust hangars that are on the rear crossmember, what the stock mufflers attach to. I also have a pair of the 94-96 hangars at the very back of the frame. While at the boneyard, I rummage under a few cars, and found some bolts that'll be helpful. I needed Looong M10 bolts for the PS and alternator bracket, and I think I found what I needed in the dirt. Also found some M8 stud-bolts. Those will come in handy when routing the wiring for the alternator under the intake manifold as the valley cover is M8. It's a little detail that sadly had distracted me a bit too much.

Ordered my gauges. egauges.com has VDO guages with all the metric adapters you need to fit the oil pressure and water temp gauges to the LS motor. You need an M12x1.5 bushing for the water temp, and M16 if you want to use the stock Oil Pressure fitting at the back of the block. Easy Peasy..

Picked up a B&M Torquemaster 2400 RPM converter for the TH350 a little while ago. Should help a bit from the stock converter. Also should be picking up my carb, Holley 670 Street Avenger this afternoon.

Comp XR275 cam came in on Monday. Relatively mild, 222/224, but should run real nice through the manifolds.
The ONLY thing I don't have yet are my cylinder heads, but should (SHOULD) be on the porch come friday.

So, the only major fab work I have is making up the pipes from the manifolds to the cat-back, and a bracket for the ignition box. Oh.. and I need to finish bolting the motor together. Minor detail..
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  #9  
Old 08-11-2011, 12:15 PM
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I would like have this when complete. Zip code 20744....thanks....mgmt
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Originally Posted by ProTools4 View Post
at some point a large overlap high compression motor with long tubes is going to shake & make so much sound that all metal spherical suspension noise transfer is another musician in the symphony of "Hot Muscle Cars Rule" in B minor
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Old 08-11-2011, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hilpala SS View Post
I would like have this when complete. Zip code 20744....thanks....mgmt
Lol.. Everything has a price..
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