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  #11  
Old 09-12-2011, 03:41 AM
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Nice job!
I did this about 3 yrs ago to a white 85 Imp we had. still looked nice the last time i seen it about 8 mths ago. I think the real key is to make sure you use 100% mineral spirits. and thinned it to just between water and milk consistency, for some reason it seems to allow the paint to lay down real flat while its evaporating. I did 2 coats, light wetsand 600, 2 coats, light wetsand 800, and finished with 2 coats. orange peal was MIA
dont worry about how well you lay down the first couple coats, just lay it down. the last ones will take care of anything funky. and expect it to be transparent thru the first 3-4 coats. take your time, one panel at a time.
if it gets alot of bubbles after layin a coat down just LIGHTLY roll over them with just the weight of the roller. dont worry about it looking glass instantly, as it sets it flattens alot.
it was actually a fun lil project. plus if you ever get a ding or scratch its easy to fix and just roll the section again!
used-
Rustoleum
4" high density rollers
100% mineral spirits
and typical body/paint supplies.
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  #12  
Old 09-12-2011, 03:44 AM
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Sucks that rustoleum dont sell a clear in non aerosol form in the US. in canada the Rustoleum equivalent is a brand called Tremclad that DOES sell a clear that can be rolled. would be interestinmg to see how it would look with a clear rolled on wetsanded/polished.
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95 CAPRICE B4U WHT (SOLD)
6000K HIDs, LEDS, Steelies/Chromed caps W/ Coopers, Grey Bonnies, Gary's Wires, TB bypass, Air Pump delete, CAI, Dual Elec fans
68 BUICK SKYLARK 2D HT--2nd owner, all original, rust free 350/th350, almost ready for paint!
79 Eldorado Biarritz White on White, factory Olds 350
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  #13  
Old 09-12-2011, 04:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nashsurecanpaint View Post
With my knowledge of auto body and paint I see no reason this wouldn't work. The only real difference is the texture you'd have after painting. The roller may leave a rougher "orange peal" but with a little sanding and buffing ANY orange peal can be sanded flat and buffed out. I may try this soon and post my results (pictures).
Even when it is sprayed on it still has the crappy texture.
I have done it 3 times
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:37 AM
crerus75 crerus75 is offline
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A lot of good info here:

http://rolledon.forummotion.com/

All sorts of combinations of paint, reducer/thinner, hardeners, tools, techniques, etc. have been tried.
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Old 09-12-2011, 07:50 PM
grandpas wagon grandpas wagon is offline
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When I was in college in the 60's, a friend painted his 1946 Pontiac fastback with a BRUSH. No prep, no tape mask, etc and it looked it.

But it ran well and got us where we wanted to go.

BTW - he is now a Federal judge.
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  #16  
Old 09-13-2011, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crerus75 View Post
A lot of good info here:

http://rolledon.forummotion.com/

All sorts of combinations of paint, reducer/thinner, hardeners, tools, techniques, etc. have been tried.
There are some insane projects on that link you provided.
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  #17  
Old 09-13-2011, 08:37 PM
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wow that car looks better than my 9c1

looks good....hoping for my "flat grey rattle can" looks as good lol
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  #18  
Old 09-13-2011, 09:50 PM
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The white is rustoleum gloss white, sprayed, thinned with mineral spirits. The metal flake was added to clear coat. I waited 2 weeks to make sure the paint was fully cured, then I hit it with 800 grit before spraying any clear coat. All in all, I probably have about $250-$300 in the paint itself. If you count a few odds and ends, like a PC dual-action, a couple tarps, etc. I'm still below $600. Lucky me, I have an Air compressor and a few nicer paint guns.

If you are going to go the rustoleum route, go to Tractor Supply and pick up some Valspar Enamel Hardener. This will make the paint dry faster and harder. Without it, Rustoleum will never "really" dry.

My reason for going cheap is simple. The car has ALOT of rust hidden under all the chrome. It was a cheap car purchased as a DD. It is, for all intents and purposes, a Rat-Rod. I give it 3 maybe 4 years until it will be beyond saving. But I have alot of fun in this car, and get nothing but compliments. Plus, it sparkles like the bass boat I can't afford. Not the best way to paint a car, but it works, and it will look good if you put time into it.
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  #19  
Old 09-18-2011, 04:18 PM
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Looks good. Real good. I did the flat black treatment to my wagon a few years back. I wasn't trying to give it a show room shine. I didn't put a whole lot of effort into it. I may have to try this on a future project.
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  #20  
Old 09-28-2011, 10:20 PM
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Cars were painted in a similar fashion well into the 30's. And many "Hotrodders" use this technique into the 60's. And the sand, polish wax method or "(hand) Rubbing" is still in use today at any shop worth it's spit.
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