Debating changing coolant or not

[TWX]

*nod* I'll have to see if I have anything Metric that big, and whether or not I need deep or shallow.

Is it safe to assume this car is a mix of metric and SAE fasteners? I used a 9/16" on the oil drain plug if memory serves, and I used a 1/2" on the belt tensioner, but there are metrics close to both of those, and the 1/2" was a fairly tight fit...

[4DoorSS]

Originally Posted by TWX

*nod* I'll have to see if I have anything Metric that big, and whether or not I need deep or shallow.

Is it safe to assume this car is a mix of metric and SAE fasteners? I used a 9/16" on the oil drain plug if memory serves, and I used a 1/2" on the belt tensioner, but there are metrics close to both of those, and the 1/2" was a fairly tight fit...

Shallow socket will work. You'll see when you look at the sensor that a deep socket would not matter anyway on those. There is really not much there to get a grip on and the case is fatter than the socket.

Consider picking up a set of Metric Sockets and wrenches. You will need them if you are going to be doing you own repairs. I would say most are metric with a few standard on some engine parts. The ones used most often are the 10mm, 13mm and 15mm. I have a metric set of sockets that is 10mm - 16mm and handles most of what I need to do. For the larger ones I will go out and buy/borrow the socket for things like the Knock Sensor. Consider picking up at least a Haynes manual which can be a big help for some of the basic stuff and start wrenching.

As others have said, do a search here for things like the knock sensors. I recently added to a post and described what I used to get those sensors out. Really just the Socket, a few extensions, universal for one side and a little patience. Again, be sure to keep the socket flat on the sensor and try not to break the top part of the case or you will be buying new knock sensor(s) and having fun getting the old ones out.

EDIT - This thread may be helpful.... http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...t=knock+sensor

and post #123 of this thread...... http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...234946&page=13

[TWX]

Oh, I've got a full shop's tools- no lift because roof's too low- i just like building kits to keep in the trunk on road trips. Being both SAE and SI just means bringing more along, that's all.

[CRSSDCM]

Get some regular 80W/90 GM or equiv.

Get 2 bottles of the limited slip additive.

And the correct Fel-Pro gasket (as I already said).

Call it done.

[zeebo]

Originally Posted by TheGraniteSS

I think only the 96 model came with the orange coolant.

yup..96 and later had dexcool..just like OBDII..so yes..the green stuff is correct for your 95..

[Carlton]

Galvanic corrosion usually shows up first at the end of the thermostat housing and can easily be seen once the lower radiator hose is removed. If serious corrosion is present I suggest replacing or at least inspecting the water pump impeller, see pics below for a water pump that came off an engine with insufficient coolant changes (lots of rust in block too). Steam line was corroded on that engine as well (last inch or so of it was basically gone)

Two more tips I'd give is to drill a small (2mm or so) hole in the thermostat, and to blow through the steam line port with compressed air, this gets crud out of the small holes in the banjo bolts. Did both of these on one of my cars and it will make it almost completely self bleeding even with the car sitting on it's wheels.

It is indeed a mix of SAE and metric. Engine is mostly SAE, body and tranny mostly metric.

[GreenHornet]

If you change the coolant. No matter what you do. DONT USE THE PETCOCK ON THE RADIATOR! They are know for breaking the plastic end tank and leaking.

[TWX]

Originally Posted by Carlton

Galvanic corrosion usually shows up first at the end of the thermostat housing and can easily be seen once the lower radiator hose is removed. If serious corrosion is present I suggest replacing or at least inspecting the water pump impeller, see pics below for a water pump that came off an engine with insufficient coolant changes (lots of rust in block too). Steam line was corroded on that engine as well (last inch or so of it was basically gone)

Eeeeew...

Yeah, I think in the next couple of weeks the coolant will be the next thing. Depending on what comes out I'll decide then if I want to bother with the thermostat or not. If it's nice and clean then it'll just get more coolant.

[4DoorSS]

Originally Posted by TWX

Eeeeew...

Yeah, I think in the next couple of weeks the coolant will be the next thing. Depending on what comes out I'll decide then if I want to bother with the thermostat or not. If it's nice and clean then it'll just get more coolant.

The t-Stat has low miles but has been in the car for over 15yrs. While the coolant is out I would replace the T-stat. It's cheap and easy to do while the coolant is drained....so why not do it?